Injector pump replace or repair

ziggi · Post by **ziggi** » Mon Mar 04, 2013 1:35 am

Hello All from New Zealand.
I'm looking for some advice on the Injector pump issue that i've had for a very long time now.
I've a 2.5 TD AFT Bongo. Over the last couple of years I've had a cold running issue which has been said is the 'Seals of the Injector pump hardening' for the last 4 months i've been trying, with a local garage to source a 2nd hand unit with no success at all.
Do I have to get a new unit? Or can the unit be taken off and the seals replaced (without sending away?)
Bongo's are RARE here in NZ and seems little is known about compatible parts etc (even though the WLT engine used in many UTE's here) I should point out that after so many garages, this is the first to agree with what was said on here at least 2 years ago on one of my other post, and has been great with assisting me over this time (it was them that suggested 2nd due to cost of new, and tight $ over here)

Any advice please?

Cheers

Andy

Titan1995 · Post by **Titan1995** » Mon Mar 04, 2013 10:54 pm

Should have no problem getting a Bosch dealer to reseal the pump.

Had mine done a while ago.

Northern Bongolow · Post by **Northern Bongolow** » Tue Mar 05, 2013 12:12 am

do a search using the search tab at the top right of this page, put in cold and start and solenoids, the and is important, then click on each link and read.
http://igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/view ... ds#p585174

this ones a long one ,but it gets there

http://igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/view ... +solenoids

ziggi · Post by **ziggi** » Tue Mar 05, 2013 1:24 am

Thanks for the info.
It's not a cold start start problem (checked all of that a couple of years ago from advice on forum)
It's a cold running problem, after 2 years and many garages this garage confirmed what a lot of people said on here, 99% sure it's seals in the injector pump gone hard, this means that until the heat is in pump and softens the seals, it allows air back into fuel line and thus cuts out. Once the engine and pump warms up, seals soften, stops the air returning and she runs fine.
When started warm, no problem, leave for 5hr plus and start, she'll cut out.

Contacted Bosch NZ in Auckland (closest one) 'Oh, not sure we do that, we can send you a new pump'

Thanks again.

Ziggi

Post by **Simon Jones** » Tue Mar 05, 2013 1:39 am

A couple of options if you can't be without transport while your pump is being repaired: buy used one in the UK, get it professionally refurbished & sent out to you, or order one second hand from Japan (who relatively speaking, are just around the corner) & hopefully it will be in good condition. Whatever bits you have left over you could sell on to help recover the costs.

Titan1995 · Post by **Titan1995** » Tue Mar 05, 2013 9:50 pm

Well I bought Simon's spare pump so that one has gone....

Post by **Simon Jones** » Tue Mar 05, 2013 10:23 pm

Titan1995 wrote:Well I bought Simon's spare pump so that one has gone....

It's the way to go though isn't it: get a second hand one and have it refurbed so you can swap it straight over.

The Great Pretender · Post by **The Great Pretender** » Wed Mar 06, 2013 3:03 am

ziggi wrote:Hello All from New Zealand.
Do I have to get a new unit? Or can the unit be taken off and the seals replaced (without sending away?)

Any advice please?

Cheers

Andy

New unit not needed.
Once the IP is off each side o rings can be changed in minutes, the rear large o ring takes about 5min with an hour dinner break before tightening. the front seal is better removed with a simple home made puller.
I couldn'd belive how easy replacement was and how hard the seal and o rings were, but the had done 16yrs hard labour..........

If you need more info pm me.

teenmal · Post by **teenmal** » Wed Mar 06, 2013 11:59 am

The Great Pretender wrote:
ziggi wrote:Hello All from New Zealand.
Do I have to get a new unit? Or can the unit be taken off and the seals replaced (without sending away?)

Any advice please?

Cheers

Andy
New unit not needed.
Once the IP is off each side o rings can be changed in minutes, the rear large o ring takes about 5min with an hour dinner break before tightening. the front seal is better removed with a simple home made puller.
I couldn'd belive how easy replacement was and how hard the seal and o rings were, but the had done 16yrs hard labour..........
If you need more info pm me.

Hi,do you just stretch the O ring over the distributor body,then leave it to reshape.

The Great Pretender · Post by **The Great Pretender** » Wed Mar 06, 2013 2:07 pm

teenmal wrote: Hi,do you just stretch the O ring over the distributor body,then leave it to reshape.

Yes.
Loosen the bolts until the o-ring is just exposed BUT NO FURTHER.
Then remove two bots completely. I wrapped tape around the body and put Vaseline on it then carefully worked the o-ring down until it rests on the two remaining bolts. Replace the removed bolts, the o-ring will now sit inside them, you can then lift the other two to allow the o-ring to sit in its groove. Leave it for an hour to let it normalise then tighten.

teenmal · Post by **teenmal** » Wed Mar 06, 2013 2:11 pm

The Great Pretender wrote:
teenmal wrote: Hi,do you just stretch the O ring over the distributor body,then leave it to reshape.
Yes.
Loosen the bolts until the o-ring is just exposed BUT NO FURTHER.
Then remove two bots completely. I wrapped tape around the body and put Vaseline on it then carefully worked the o-ring down until it rests on the two remaining bolts. Replace the removed bolts, the o-ring will now sit inside them, you can then lift the other two to allow the o-ring to sit in its groove. Leave it for an hour to let it normalise then tighten.

Aye if you massage the O ring it will go back to its original size quicker.

Post by **Simon Jones** » Wed Mar 06, 2013 2:42 pm

The Great Pretender wrote:I wrapped tape around the body and put Vaseline on it then carefully worked the o-ring down until it rests on the two remaining bolts.

It is not generally recommended to use Vaseline for lubricating rubber (hence why KY jelly is used for lubricating other rubber items

). In this case, diesel would probably be the safest to use on O-rings.

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index ... 725AA9g5us
http://www.homegardenguides.com/garden- ... seals.html
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... ber=211213

Dr Fingers · Post by **Dr Fingers** » Wed Mar 06, 2013 4:48 pm

I have a spare pump, but it needs attention. Garage changed the seals, but it still doesn't give full power..

yours for the postage, which might be a lot, it's a heavy old lump..

Derek

The Great Pretender · Post by **The Great Pretender** » Thu Mar 07, 2013 12:18 am

I agree Simon, I wouldn’t use petroleum jelly on natural rubber or the latex thingies you refer to………………..

I’m happy using it on Viton o-rings as Fluoroelastomers work well with hydrocarbon and vegetable based oils, now, where did I put my drum of Castrol R……….............

rita · Post by **rita** » Thu Mar 07, 2013 1:56 am

Simon Jones wrote:
The Great Pretender wrote:I wrapped tape around the body and put Vaseline on it then carefully worked the o-ring down until it rests on the two remaining bolts.
It is not generally recommended to use Vaseline for lubricating rubber (hence why KY jelly is used for lubricating other rubber items ). In this case, diesel would probably be the safest to use on O-rings.

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index ... 725AA9g5us
http://www.homegardenguides.com/garden- ... seals.html
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... ber=211213

Not recomending petroleum jelly based product on Oil seals ( O rings ) is very strange.

Injector pump replace or repair

Injector pump replace or repair

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Re: Injector pump replace or repair

Re: Injector pump replace or repair

Re: Injector pump replace or repair

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Re: Injector pump replace or repair

Re: Injector pump replace or repair