HELP re Haydn's low coolant alarm wiring!

[Gixermark]

As the above mentions, after a wee bit of help re Haydn's wiring please?

I have put everything in place as per his instruction and am left with the x2 wires to connect. Red/black straight forward as it goes to earth but not sure re the red ( positive ) and where best to go! It needs to go to a live when the ignition is on, I've stripped all the gubbins from under the steering wheel & removed the ankle shield to show all the various wiring etc ....... Just wondered if someone can say which wire to go to or can I go behind the fuse box? Also an idea where best to connect the negative please?

Thanks in advance .....

[chipvan]

have you got an ignition live to your radio?

If so put a fuse holder inline and run that to your live for alarm.

If you cant fint a neg earth ,then eun a new wire to - on battery

[Gixermark]

Thanks for the reply ......Not sure as I haven't had the radio out yet, I'll look in the morning. I did remember seeing a pink wire leading across from the ankle wiring under the wheel and towards the radio ....

[chipvan]

dont do it now,take your time..

Iam no techie and i managed it ok..your be fine..

[g8dhe]

First question is do you have or will you be fitting, a leisure battery ?
If the answer is NO then you can pickup the +12v switched on the rear of the cig. lighter socket.
If YES then probably the easiest fuse to pickup is the this one;

You want the lower connection which should have a Green wire on it.
This one stays live during Starting as well, so you won't get a second test beep after starting.

[Gixermark]

First question is do you have or will you be fitting, a leisure battery ?
If the answer is NO then you can pickup the +12v switched on the rear of the cig. lighter socket.
If YES then probably the easiest fuse to pickup is the this one;

You want the lower connection which should have a Green wire on it.
This one stays live during Starting as well, so you won't get a second test beep after starting.

Ah! Brill ....picture speaks a thousand words, thank you!

Yes, I have a full camper conversion so already have a leisure battery fitted, I'll undo the fuse box and look for the green wire ( mines a 96 on an 'N' reg if it makes any difference! ) and tap into it.
Thanks ...

[chipvan]

[jaylee]

There are shed loads of places to wire the negative/earth under the dash... Bolt holes on the metallic dash frame.. Threaded bolt holes up above the kick panel where the beeping stuff is... Threaded bolt holes under the "glory hole" either side of the foot wells, either side under the steering column... Above the kick plate on the frame just below the passenger glove box...?? To name a few....

[Simon Jones]

I took the power and earth directly from the rear of the instrument panel as I fitted the LED next to the temperature gauge. You can see the thicker wires going off the left of the photo. The other thing is the speedo chip before I replaced the speedo with the GA5R version that is already in miles. Be careful if you undo any of the screws on the rear of the panel as it is very easy to over tighten them which breaks the fine wires attached to the threaded posts which feed power to the dials.

[Dodgey]

Buy a multi meter - £8 from B&Q - they are invaluable. Switch the ignition on - acc - so the engine isn't running. Set the meter to 12v DC range or above, clip the black cable to the chassis (bare metal) then, with the red probe, prod inside the end of connectors until you get 12v or more on the screen. You have found live! Now switch the ignition off - if the 12v goes to zero then you've found an ignition switched live! - if it doesn't keep trying more

http://www.diy-spares.com/cgi-bin/produ ... testmeters

Now you can also test fuses, mains wires, check wires for continuity. If you go near any wiring you should have one of these.

[cmm303]

Doing exact same job. What is best way to "tap into" the feed. I have had a go at trying to remove the wire from the fuse box with a view to crimping original and LCA to the same spade connector and returning it but could not remove the wire and became nervous about damaging it.

I could use a Scotchlok connector but presumed that if this was an acceptable approach it would have been included one in the kit.

Chris

[Velocette]

I think I used the same fuse illustrated or one on the same row (mine was the one for the rear wash wipe IIRR) but I used a piggy back (they are called something else really but I can't remember what) fuseholder so the alarm has its own fuse. Not particularly necessay but neat quick and easy. I got it from Halfords, they don't have them on display, they went and got it from the radio fitting bay so any car audio place will stock them.

[the laird]

Was it a scotch lock?

[cmm303]

Scotchlok were connectors often supplied with towbar electrics. They are a plastic casing with two tunnels. across each tunnel is a forked blade. Place one tunnel over the existing wire and the new wire end into the other tunnels and then press the blade down. It cuts through the insulation on each wire forming a link between existing and new wires. shown far better here: http://solutions.3m.co.uk/wps/portal/3M ... connector/

First time I've put a link in here so hope it works, apologies if it doesn't
Chris

[cmm303]

I think I used the same fuse illustrated or one on the same row (mine was the one for the rear wash wipe IIRR) but I used a piggy back (they are called something else really but I can't remember what) fuseholder so the alarm has its own fuse. Not particularly necessay but neat quick and easy. I got it from Halfords, they don't have them on display, they went and got it from the radio fitting bay so any car audio place will stock them.

Thanks. I didn't know such things existed!.