Changing the thermostat

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Gripped
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Changing the thermostat

Post by Gripped » Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:45 pm

Is there a guide on how to do this? I can't find one, but thought there must be considering how frequently people do it. The other guides are great.

Advice greatly appreciated !

Changed my radiator today for an ebay £83 delivered radiator.... I must say, it looks to be as good quality as the original. It has a 2 year warranty too.

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I didn't realise that the auto box oil is cooled by the same radiator too...... you learn something new every day.... and I also got a forearm covered in gearbox oil too.... :roll: :roll:

So, tomorrow is the 'stat change, then I'm flushing all the old coolant out, and refilling with "red" coolant, using the bleed procedure.
Last edited by Gripped on Tue Nov 06, 2012 11:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Changing the thermostat

Post by Driver+Passengers » Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:49 pm

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mikeonb4c
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Re: Changing the thermostat

Post by mikeonb4c » Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:53 pm

Easy on 2we, a bit trickier on 4wd due to driveshaft in the way, but can be done without removing driveshaft (with the right socket flexible extension I dimly recall reading?)
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Re: Changing the thermostat

Post by Driver+Passengers » Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:56 pm

mikeonb4c wrote:Easy on 2we, a bit trickier on 4wd due to driveshaft in the way, but can be done without removing driveshaft (with the right socket flexible extension I dimly recall reading?)
If you have a universal flex joint, wrap insulating tape around it to stop it flopping around under the weight of a socket, you'll have the weight of the bolt on it too when trying to refit the front one.
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Gripped
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Re: Changing the thermostat

Post by Gripped » Tue Nov 06, 2012 11:15 pm

Thanks for the super quick replies. That should make life easier !

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Northern Bongolow
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Re: Changing the thermostat

Post by Northern Bongolow » Tue Nov 06, 2012 11:30 pm

couple of tips from me.
make sure the jiggle pin in the stat is alongside the (mouses ear) when fitting, this puts the jiggle pin at the highest point when fitted into the housing. (can help with bleeding later).
may be easier to fit if you remove the whole housing from the engine block, but you will need to replace the gasket between. the bolts that hold the 2 housing parts together are easy to get cross threaded so doing it on the bench is easier.
remove the small 10mm bolt that holds the dipstick tube to the housing, this gives easier access to the housing bolts when refitting as the tube can then be swivelled out of the way a little.
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Re: Changing the thermostat

Post by stuc » Wed Nov 07, 2012 12:14 am

When you put the bolts back in, put a bit of insulating tape over the hex hole in the socket, then push your bolt into the socket through the tape and it keeps the bolt nice and secure but when you are tight it just comes back off nice and easy. This is great for bolts on the end of long extensions in hard to reach places.
You might already know this tape but thought I would share.
Another tip, when filling something which is hard to get the bottle into, put a long bar or screwdriver into the filler hole and pour the liquid down the shaft, no spillage nice and easy. Sounds odd but works.
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Re: Changing the thermostat

Post by Titan1995 » Thu Nov 08, 2012 9:36 am

As previously stated in my posts. I feel it easier to remove the whole thermostat housing from the engine.

Get a gasket from your local Ford dealer. The reasoning is that one can do the fiddly thermostat seal bit on the bench as it were. Also less chance or cross threading the thermostat tube retaining bolts.
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