Drivers side window switch

[Judeismydog]

Hi. My drivers side window is stuck up. When I operate the switch a whirring noise comes from the switch itself but the window remains shut. When I try to operate the passenger window from the drivers side nothing happens, not even a whirring noise. The passenger window works from the passenger side. The on/off switch on the drivers side works, and prevents the passenger side from opening when in the off position. Logic tells me that it is the switch itself that's kaput but I don't want to shell out huge amounts of money on a new switch just to find out it's the motor or wiring. I've tried all my local breakers yards for Bongo /323 switches to no avail. My plan was to plug it in and try it before I paid for it, but I can't do that from eBay! Any wisdom gratefully received.
Thanks

[jaylee]

Is the noise from the switch more like a buzz...?

[Velocette]

Check the wiring that is clipped to the door hinge first it is extremely prone to damage after years of use. Liook for damaged wires or old repairs. If you take the switch surround out pull the back out first or the plastic clip at the front will break. Don't ask me how I know this. Also beware of the projectile ball bearing and spring. Ditto. The switch can fail but it is worth checking the wires first for the above reasons IMO.

[Judeismydog]

Thanks for the replies. Yes, the sound from the switch is probably more like a buzz in all honesty.
I've had the door panel off and covered myself in black goo, but I couldn't see any obvious problems with the wiring or any old repairs.
I've also taken the switch apart and I did wonder what that ball bearing was all about. In fact I still do wonder as it doesn't seem much different minus the ball bearing. It still doesn't work.

[jaylee]

If it's a buzz..? The black wire in the door loom is frayed & just touching..?!! Check where it goes into the oval shaped rubber grommet under the rubber sheath in the drivers side wing.. Or as Velocette says in the V clipped to the hinge..

[Northern Bongolow]

the ballbearing and spring push the passy side isolation part of the switch firmly together, it wont interfere with the drivers side working or not.

[Judeismydog]

Cheers both. I'll have a proper look at the wiring again, as soon as it stops raining...

[Judeismydog]

Thanks both. You were spot on. There was a faulty solder join (old repair) in the black wire between the V clip and the oval rubber thing. It was being held together with tape. Incidentally it was showing 12v at the switch until activation when it dropped to 5v. All sorted now, without having to fork out for a new switch!
Thanks again. You are wise men.

[mikeonb4c]

Thanks both. You were spot on. There was a faulty solder join (old repair) in the black wire between the V clip and the oval rubber thing. It was being held together with tape. Incidentally it was showing 12v at the switch until activation when it dropped to 5v. All sorted now, without having to fork out for a new switch!
Thanks again. You are wise men.

Excellent result, really pleased for you. In my case, a switch rebuild using another cannibalised switch did the job, but its a real pain trying to work out which element is the problem when it happens.