Window switch - Noise?

[cardiff996]

Hi all,

I have a fault with the window switch.
Sometimes it doesnt work for either of the front windows. It makes a buzzing sound. If you then move the switch up and down a few times you can get it to work.

Anyone had this type of problem please and any ideas where I need to start looking at to fix this?

Thanks very much

[silvern]

I had the same problem (pretty common I think). Check the wiring where it exits the door. There is a thread too:
http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... zz&start=0

[jaylee]

Yep, there is a black earth wire in the loom from the door to the bodywork behind the wing.. It will be frayed/snapped but sometimes touching with the movement of the door.. That's why you have indeterminacy with the windows & you will hear a slight buzz.

There are two places this wire may have broke in the loom.. Either on the V where the loom is clipped to the hinge, or where it goes through a grommet in the wing to the drivers footwell... The latter is harder to spot. (& what my moneys on where your break is.!)
Check the carefully other wires in the loom too..

The whole V in the loom with the constant opening & closing of the drivers door & flexing the loom causes more problems than it solves in the long term...

I cut my loom cover/cable tidy & took up the slack in the wing after repair to the wire ... (in fact i've done a few other similar repairs on others too.) It still moves with the door..

Hope this helps?!



It is a fiddly job in a tight space, & you may well find other wires in that part of the loom frayed waiting to go & in need of repair too..?

[bongobaz]

Yep, there is a black earth wire in the loom from the door to the bodywork behind the wing.. It will be frayed/snapped but sometimes touching with the movement of the door.. That's why you have indeterminacy with the windows & you will hear a slight buzz.

There are two places this wire may have broke in the loom.. Either on the V where the loom is clipped to the hinge, or where it goes through a grommet in the wing to the drivers footwell... The latter is harder to spot. (& what my moneys on where your break is.!)
Check the carefully other wires in the loom too..

The whole V in the loom with the constant opening & closing of the drivers door & flexing the loom causes more problems than it solves in the long term...

I cut my loom cover/cable tidy & took up the slack in the wing after repair to the wire ... (in fact i've done a few other similar repairs on others too.) It still moves with the door..

Hope this helps?!



It is a fiddly job in a tight space, & you may well find other wires in that part of the loom frayed waiting to go & in need of repair too..?

TELL ME ABOUT IT, well tell you about it. Mine was a bag of bits, no trouble since your extensive effort at Poole thanks again.

[cardiff996]

Ah...what can one say. The team come up trumps again, cant fault it!!!!

Thanks very much for all for the replys, just perfect.

Cheers
Rich

[jaylee]

I do remember that one Baz.. My wife was a "widow" that day..



I hope the window switch clip i created on the spot out of the old door loom tie is still holding up too??


Another (In my view) less fiddly option is remove the door card & run an earth wire spur off the black wire in the loom just behind the connector to the drivers window switch to one of the many bolts on the inside door skin using a crimp fork connector on the end which will ground it nicely though the bodywork...

I earthed my window switch back light this way!! Though i still reckon a few of the wires in the loom between the door & wing will soon need attention too...?

Good luck!

[Velocette]

I had this problem on Saturday when we were camped at Truckfest. Being a bit deaf and it not being the quietest of venues I didn't hear the buzzing until I had pulled the switch to bits. By pure luck I got it to close on my second bash at it on Sunday and left it at that. I will now check the harness wiring carefully thanks to finding this thread.

One question, I took the top off the switch and there was a small spring about 7mm long and a steel ball rattling around inside. I couldn't see anywhere obvious for them to fit ???. Any ideas?

[Doone]

One question, I took the top off the switch and there was a small spring about 7mm long and a steel ball rattling around inside. I couldn't see anywhere obvious for them to fit ???. Any ideas?

Jaylee mentioned a spring and ball, in THIS POST Is that what you're looking for?

[Velocette]

One question, I took the top off the switch and there was a small spring about 7mm long and a steel ball rattling around inside. I couldn't see anywhere obvious for them to fit ???. Any ideas?

Jaylee mentioned a spring and ball, in THIS POST Is that what you're looking for?

That is exactly what I need thanks. Bit of Servisol on the sliders and it can go back together now.

If I had searched on ping f%&k it as originally intended I might have found that post!

[Doone]

lol If I search for posts about window switches, I add 'jaylee' as the poster, it narrows the search and usually finds what we need.

[Velocette]

Update.

First dry evening tonight so I took the tape off the harness between the door and the door shut. What a mess! There were several joins one soldered (rotten) and the others just twisted. I stripped a couple of wires back and they were black inside. There were a couple of cracked wires and all the wires were hard.

I either need to replace the door harness or splice in about 10 inches of new wire. Former may be impossible to get and the latter is introducing about 60 new points of failure unless I solder it which would be permanent as long as I clean the flux off unlike the last monkey.

Here is where I am up to. I have unplugged the cables in the footwell and pulled everything through the door and out into the open.

[g8dhe]

Tried the shop ? http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/mercha ... #Electrics
at a price of course for the real thing!

If you use normal electrical solder you don't need to clean the flux off ....
If you use Plumbing solder... well that is a different matter ...

[Velocette]

Tried the shop ? http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/mercha ... #Electrics
at a price of course for the real thing!

If you use normal electrical solder you don't need to clean the flux off ....
If you use Plumbing solder... well that is a different matter ...

I will look at the shop. I am glad to hear that as I don't remember if I cleaned of the joints on my motorbike harness after it was cut and hot wired.

I am going to remove the harness and do it indoors but my only worry is maintaining some sort of colour code. I got a telling off once for wiring a bike in all one colour as I could only afford one reel at the time!

Edit

That price is about what I expected it would be from a mazda dealer, if not more. If I hadn't just ordered two paint kits and paid my renewal I would have just hit add to cart! Still tempted as it would be the best solution by far.

[rita]

Tried the shop ? http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/mercha ... #Electrics
at a price of course for the real thing!

If you use normal electrical solder you don't need to clean the flux off ....
If you use Plumbing solder... well that is a different matter ...

I will look at the shop. I am glad to hear that as I don't remember if I cleaned of the joints on my motorbike harness after it was cut and hot wired.

I am going to remove the harness and do it indoors but my only worry is maintaining some sort of colour code. I got a telling off once for wiring a bike in all one colour as I could only afford one reel at the time!

Edit

That price is about what I expected it would be from a mazda dealer, if not more. If I hadn't just ordered two paint kits and paid my renewal I would have just hit add to cart! Still tempted as it would be the best solution by far.

Hi,would it not be possible to use split ring numbers or letters.

Something like this..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Organizer-Ide ... 5ae504266f

[g8dhe]

There is only about 13 wires or so (X16 & X17 connectors) involved, I would have thought if you ask around you could find a cable with that number of wires or similar as scrap as you would only need a metre or so then the connections can be done nearer the original connectors - just make sure its not single core wire you need something like 20/0.3mm stranded wire for flexibility - try the local scrap metal merchant!