What are these pipes for?

[Northern Bongolow]

the main problem is the hole in the large air pipe that it should connect too, this needs closing/blanking, or refit an original part, these can be found from bongo parts suppliers or they are a standard part on most mazda models, petrol and diesels of a similar age with egr fitted, go to the scrappies and get one and a handfull of spare bits of vac pipes and do away with the egr side of things if its been blanked off at each end, that is the metel egr pipe.

without seeing whats been done with the common vac pipe that feeds both the starting solenoids and the egr solenoids it difficult to say how to repipe things.
when the engine is below about 10 deg c the revs should pick up like a choke to keep the engine running sweet, then as it warms a little the first one drops out and the second picks it up to half choke, so its a 2 stage warm up choke so when it gets to approx 50 deg c both are off.
during all this the revs should stay at above 700, but not more than 950 as this high reving during warm up would turn off the glow plugs which come on/off when needed until warmed up.
hope this helps you understand what should happen.

[stefan442]

the main problem is the hole in the large air pipe that it should connect too, this needs closing/blanking, or refit an original part, these can be found from bongo parts suppliers or they are a standard part on most mazda models, petrol and diesels of a similar age with egr fitted, go to the scrappies and get one and a handfull of spare bits of vac pipes and do away with the egr side of things if its been blanked off at each end, that is the metel egr pipe.

without seeing whats been done with the common vac pipe that feeds both the starting solenoids and the egr solenoids it difficult to say how to repipe things.
when the engine is below about 10 deg c the revs should pick up like a choke to keep the engine running sweet, then as it warms a little the first one drops out and the second picks it up to half choke, so its a 2 stage warm up choke so when it gets to approx 50 deg c both are off.
during all this the revs should stay at above 700, but not more than 950 as this high reving during warm up would turn off the glow plugs which come on/off when needed until warmed up.
hope this helps you understand what should happen.

Yes it does thankyou. Revs seem to stay around 800 constantly, i will have a proper look tomorrow morning. As its meant to be a nice day, ill have a little look and try and take some pics of how its all piped.

[jaylee]

Hey up..! Was avin a root around under my seat earlier.. (I was there any way) & i remembered Stefan442's pipe query...

pic 2 the left arrow, this is a one way valve (green), it should connect to the large air pipe(black) at the rear of the head, the stub it connects to may have broken off and left a hole of about 4mm in the top wall of the pipe, this needs repairing as it controls the vac for the egr and cold start solenoids.
does it start very lumpy from cold, but ok when warm ?? .
the right arrow is the supply to the egr solenoids which comes from the cold start solenoids which are the 2 to the right of the picture, the pipework from them is also non standard .
i would think someone has blanked off the egr system which isnt a bad thing,but it does look like a bad bodgey way of sorting the pipework.

Now, i may have read this thread wrong, but i don't think the displaced pipe would affect the cold start or idle control using the AC..? I apologize to Ady if i spoke outaturn...

It appears to connect here (part 20-300.) http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... no=.html#7

The thing circled in blue should shift to the left when starting cold or AC is switched on to keep the revs at around 750rpm..?

[Northern Bongolow]

picture No. 2 is http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... 1of02.html

you are right jay, but if you follow V in max's link, back to source it is the common vac supply to all the solenoids, thats the point really.

both correct mate really

[jaylee]

Indeed agreed... Sorry.!

[stefan442]

Right, i have taken some photos and i have found two stubs that the two floating tubes appear they should be connected too.

From the previous links to wiki i can't figure out what goes where. Don't know if i am just being stupid but it doesn't appear to be the same as mine.



Broken stub as per Northern Bongolow's post, http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... =3&t=50170

Pipe with valve check goes here, confirmed from pic in intake thread

And the other stub;

[jaylee]

Where you circled in black the loose pipe goes...!

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g179/ ... 0458-1.jpg

[stefan442]

Where you circled in black the loose pipe goes...!

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g179/ ... 0458-1.jpg

Im all over it, will probably need some new pipe.

Thanks, you been a big help!

[jaylee]

I must admit the loose pipe looked split on the end.. Can it not be cut back a little, warmed up slightly then pushed back on the stub??

[stefan442]

I must admit the loose pipe looked split on the end.. Can it not be cut back a little, warmed up slightly then pushed back on the stub??

seems a bit short, plus the pipe seems quite hard a brittle. Ill have a fiddle tomorrow and see how it goes I'm pretty sure my mate who is rebuilding an Suzuki sj will have some laying around I can tea leaf!

[jaylee]

Yep, they sometimes have a habit of splitting along a seam.. I had one split that way coming of the elbow from the inter-cooler.. Hoses can be sourced, with the right internal diameter.. Just a slightly thicker wall..!?



(The tee piece is for a turbo gauge mod. & the ribbed conduit following the top hose is a temp is for a gauge sensor.. Don't panic..!)