
Welcome to this year’s tour
Ever since we completed our epic three week tour of the Scottish highlands & islands in 2009 (details HERE for anyone who missed that), I’ve been kicking around an Ireland tour. But it would have to be a comprehensive one, there’s no point doing things by halves

3,500km and the Bongo was yet again the bulletproof weapon of choice for this tour
I did want to do this back in the eighties but Mrs Muz wasn’t keen as, at that time, we had a green Land-Rover and that was at the height of the ‘troubles’. Sure, I’ve been to Dublin for a business meeting and we went to Belfast for a day-trip last year (which I would thoroughly recommend, details HERE for anyone who missed that) but Ireland as a whole was completely uncharted territory for all of us. Actually, my business meeting wasn’t exactly in Dublin, it was on a barge in Dublin Bay in 2004....

....this one
Now bearing in mind that this tour has been at the planning stage for some considerable time, you can imagine my consternation on hearing the news that, with only two weeks to go, our ferry arrived in Belfast with a big hole in the side of it


Frantic emails back & forth to Stena as their other two ships were due in Harland & Wolff’s dry dock....

Plan B - no midnight oil required, just a leisurely drive to Liverpool....

....to catch one of the newly refurbished vessels on a misty Saturday morning

Spookily enough hatris (Harry & Trish) had at very short notice decided to wave us off from Crosby

Luckily they had their camera, if you look closely you can see us and our Bongo as the ship appeared to be sailing into a sandbank

Here’s a clue

Settle down for an 8-hour sailing from Birkenhead to Belfast

Stena Lagan, only released from dry-dock two days earlier

Calf of Man as we pass by the bottom of the Isle of Man

Chicken Rock lighthouse at the tip of the Isle of Man

It’s a long sailing

Biggest dry-dock in the world, Harland & Wolff in Belfast

This Bongo was also on the ferry, he gave us some good tips for places to stop in exchange for info on our Omnistor awning

Carrickfergus castle, County Antrim

First overnight stop, Glenarm, County Antrim

Cushendun village from Runabay Head, County Antrim

Not for the faint-hearted, Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge, County Antrim....

....a hundred-foot drop into the sea....

....where fishermen used to cross to check salmon nets....

....but now just a challenge

Next, the Giant’s Causeway....

....a fitting bookend for the kids....

....as they went to the Isle of Staffa and Fingal’s Cave on the Outer Hebrides tour....

....allegedly the other end of the Causeway

Never too cold for ice-cream
A quick visit to the Old Bushmills Distillery (where there was a Bongo with BF sticker in the back window, hello if you’re reading this) and an even quicker visit to the Hip Chip chippy in downtown Bushmills where we sampled the local speciality – Deep-fried Scotch egg, chips & mushy peas

Dunluce castle, County Antrim

The starting grid for the NW200 road races, Portstewart, County Londonderry

Downhill House, County Londonderry

Downhill House, County Londonderry

Portstewart from Downhill House, County Londonderry

Mussenden Temple, County Londonderry

Downhill House, County Londonderry

Downhill House gardens, County Londonderry

Bishop’s Gate, County Londonderry

Lough Foyle ferry, Magilligan to Greencastle, or from Northern Ireland to the Republic....

....this is in fact the much smaller Lough Swilly ferry while the proper one gets serviced

Malin Head weather station, all you land-lubbers may have heard it on the BBC Shipping Forecast....

....with some super-scientific gear for measuring the rainfall

Up to Banba's Crown, County Donegal for hot chocolate & Flumps....

....this is the most northerly point in Ireland....

....in fact we’re in Southern Ireland but further north than anywhere in Northern Ireland

....a suitable place to pitch camp for night Two

Up early and bacon & eggs for breakfast!!

Glenveagh castle, County Donegal

Temple Guardian Statue, Glenveagh castle, County Donegal. Can you spot who’s who?

Glenveagh National Park, County Donegal

Glenveagh castle gardens, County Donegal

Glenveagh castle, County Donegal. Do not feed the animals

Glenveagh castle, County Donegal

Glenveagh castle, County Donegal. No photography inside

Glenveagh castle, County Donegal

Lough Beagh, Glenveagh National Park, County Donegal

Fast food? – We’re behind schedule so Mrs Muz is making butties as we head through Amazing Grace country, south to Northern Ireland

Enniskillen castle, County Fermanagh

Mullaghmore Head, County Sligo, third overnight stop

Muz Jr in charge of cooking

Bockwürsts & rice – ideal campervan single-pot fare....

....some of the ingredients had been in the van for several years

Me in charge of breakfast, so that’ll be bacon & eggs then

Not too shabby for a free night’s camp....

...but there was a “Roof down” emergency in the night as it got just a tad breezy

Classiebawn Castle, County Sligo. Jr was navigating, I asked what this was and he helpfully replied “Some rich geezer's house.”

Chicken tikka jalfrezi with pilau rice, chips & keema nan? – Don’t mind if I do

Typical scenery

Leenane, County Galway

Kylemore Abbey, formerly Kylemore castle, County Galway viewed across Pollacappul Lough

Kylemore Abbey, County Galway

Kylemore Abbey, County Galway

Kylemore Abbey, County Galway

Kylemore Abbey, County Galway – Check out the muppets in the mirrors

Kylemore Abbey, County Galway

The Gothic church on the same site



I’m guessing they get a fair amount of rain here

A Funky Gibbon?

....and a Honky Cat?

Kylemore Abbey walled garden, County Galway

Kylemore Abbey walled garden, County Galway

Kylemore Abbey walled garden, County Galway

Kylemore Abbey walled garden, County Galway

The Hills of Connemara, County Galway. Cue Tom Donovan

Dunguaire castle, County Galway

Under Gleninag mountain, Galway Bay, County Clare for the fourth overnight stop.

Muzette in charge of tea....

....Pasta, beans & pasta sauce....

....more Bongo-cupboard essentials!!

Awwww

Bon appetit!!

There’s a video to go with this for the not-so-squeamish amongst you

Cheers!! – Don’t mind if I do!!

Kids off exporing....

....before a glorious evening....

....overlooking the Galway Bay

A cold morning, got to get going!!

Cliffs of Moher, County Clare

Cliffs of Moher, County Clare

Cliffs of Moher, County Clare

O’Brien’s Tower, Cliffs of Moher, County Clare

Cliffs of Moher, County Clare

Shannon ferry....

....Killimer to Tarbert....

....or County Clare to County Kerry....


There be a rose somewhere

Corrán Tuathail, County Kerry, at 1038m the highest mountain in Ireland. Locals always in the way

Dingle Bay, County Kerry

Dingle Bay, County Kerry

Ahoy land-lubbers - Valentia weather station, County Kerry, now no longer on Valentia Island

Reenard Point, County Kerry

Knight's Town, Valentia Island, County Kerry

Cahersiveen, County Kerry

Awwww

Do you think it’s normally windy up here?

UNESCO world heritage site Skellig Michael or Great Skellig from Valentia Island

Little Skellig

Portmagee, County Kerry

Valentia Island telegraph field with the Skelligs in the background....

....where the first transatlantic telegraph message was relayed.

Kenmare estuary, County Kerry

Kenmare estuary, County Kerry

Looscaunagh Lough, Killarney National Park, County Kerry....

....a nice spot to pitch camp for the night

Bockwürsts & rice again for tea....

....with some local refreshments

A lovely evening....

....if a bit on the chilly side

What a day in prospect!!

Now I’m not saying it was cold overnight....

Kids enjoying the morning....

....in stunning surroundings....

....while the adults pack up

Lough Leane, Killarney National Park, County Kerry

Torc waterfall, Killarney National Park, County Kerry

Muckross House, Killarney National Park, County Kerry

Muckross Abbey, Killarney National Park, County Kerry

Muckross Abbey, Killarney National Park, County Kerry

Muckross Abbey, Killarney National Park, County Kerry

Muckross Abbey, Killarney National Park, County Kerry

Muckross Abbey, Killarney National Park, County Kerry

Muckross House, Killarney National Park, County Kerry

Muckross Lake, Killarney National Park, County Kerry

Molly, Killarney National Park, County Kerry

Ross castle, Killarney National Park, County Kerry

Blarney castle, County Cork

Blarney castle, County Cork

Blarney castle, County Cork

Anyone for kissing the Blarney stone? – at the top of the tower....

....here?

Lean back over the gap and kiss....

....in the old days there was no safety railing....

....and you could fall to your death – there’s a Sherlock Holmes investigation that turns into a murder enquiry when they notice that the boots of the deceased had been greased

If falling from the tower didn’t get you, there’s some more ideas here

Blarney castle, County Cork

Come on, shake a leg!!

Awww

Blarney house, County Cork

Fern garden, Blarney castle, County Cork

Blarney castle, County Cork

Blarney castle, County Cork

Blarney castle, County Cork

Looking for that perfect picture....

Blarney castle, County Cork

Blarney castle, County Cork

Glanagear forest, Nagles mountains, County Cork, a quiet overnight spot

Glanagear forest, Nagles mountains, County Cork

Glanagear forest, Nagles mountains, County Cork

Contemplation
Just then, and bearing in mind this is about 7am, a lone walker appeared out of the mist, looking disturbingly like Harry

Bacon, egg & Clonakilty black pudding for breakfast – more like haggis than black pudding
(Clonakilty is renowned for its black pudding, it originated in Edward Twomey's butcher shop in Pearse Street. The secret spice recipe has been handed down through the generations since the 1880s, and is still known only to the Twomey family who continue to manufacture the pudding at the Clonakilty Food Company

Now THAT’s what you call a butty!!

Jr struggling with jiggly eggs or an egg-banjo sandwich as it’s more commonly known

Glanagear forest, Nagles mountains, County Cork

In search of another photo

Glanagear forest, Nagles mountains, County Cork


St. Fin Barre's Cathedral, Cork, County Cork

St. Fin Barre's Cathedral, Cork, County Cork. Photo ©Muz Jr

St. Fin Barre's Cathedral, Cork, County Cork

St. Fin Barre's Cathedral, Cork, County Cork

Muzette in action...

Holy Trinity Church, Cork, County Cork. Photo ©Muzette

Blackrock castle, Cork, County Cork

Lough Mahon ferry, Passage West to Cobh

Old Midleton distillery and The Jameson Experience

Lismore castle, County Waterford

It’s a long way

River Suir, Cahir, County Tipperary

Cahir castle, County Tipperary

Cahir castle, County Tipperary

Cahir castle, County Tipperary

Cahir castle, County Tipperary

Cahir castle, County Tipperary

River Suir salmon ladder & St. Paul's Church, Cahir, County Tipperary

Cahir castle, County Tipperary

Cahir castle, County Tipperary

Bansha woods, Galty mountains, County Tipperary. Overnight solitude

River Suir at Golden, County Tipperary

Hore Abbey, County Tipperary

WTF?!?!?

Rock of Cashel, County Tipperary

Rock of Cashel, County Tipperary

Cormac's Chapel, Rock of Cashel, County Tipperary

Cormac's Chapel, Rock of Cashel, County Tipperary

Jessie, Rock of Cashel, County Tipperary


Kilkenny castle, County Kilkenny

Well, for week 2 our accommodation is more static....

....and a little bigger

Knocktopher Abbey, County Kilkenny

Knocktopher Abbey, County Kilkenny

Knocktopher Abbey, County Kilkenny

Perfection!!

A muppet buying more Guinness

Two muppets

Jerpoint Abbey, County Kilkenny

Enniscorthy castle, County Wexford

Ideal weather for ducks.....and ducklings

Peacock....

....having acupuncture to its head

Johnstown castle, County Wexford

Espaliered fruit tree, Johnstown castle walled garden, County Wexford

Primroses, allegedly

Tintern Abbey, County Wexford, and I always had that as being in Monmouthshire

The rather ecclesiastical bridge outside Tintern Abbey, County Wexford

Hook lighthouse, County Wexford

Ballyhack to Passage East ferry....

....or County Wexford to County Waterford

Waterford Crystal

Taking the glass from the furnace....

....moulding it....

....not sure what he was making here

....flattening the edges....

....cutting the patterns....

....don’t drop it!!....

....perfection

....Our new wine glass

The ferry to Little Island, County Waterford

Waterford castle, County Waterford

Ferry back from Little Island, County Waterford

There are derelict tower-houses all over but how about this restored one, Ballaghmore castle B&B, County Laois

There are ruins of Abbeys all over too, but this one was particularly interesting, Monaincha Abbey, County Tipperary

Roscrea castle, County Tipperary

Leap castle, County Offaly

Birr castle, County Offaly

The Great Telescope, Birr castle, County Offaly, built in the 1840’s it was the biggest telescope in the world for 70 years

Relaxing, Birr castle, County Offaly

Clonmacnoise Monastery, County Offaly

Celtic crosses, Clonmacnoise Monastery, County Offaly


Quin Abbey, County Clare

Bunratty castle, County Clare

There once was a family called Muz, who got a Bongo to see what it does, they went camping each week, took pics for all to peek, and when asked why said “Just because”.

King John's castle, County Limerick

Ardnacrusha hydroelectric scheme, County Clare, home of the tallest locks in the British Isles, 60 feet and 40 feet in one 2-lock staircase

No traffic that day so I wasn’t able to view the locks myself but I’ve stolen this pic from the net

Effin, County Limerick, where they had trouble with FaceBook, details HERE

Now, let’s get to the Effin pub and then to the Effin chippy!!

Relaxing after a tough day on tour

Ballyteige Bay, Celtic Sea – What a place for a wild-camp!!

Ballyteige Bay, Celtic Sea

Ballyteige Bay, Celtic Sea

Cold?

Ballyteige Bay, Celtic Sea. Never too cold to go in the sea

Clonmines Abbey, County Wexford

Local in a caravan, County Wexford, with a couple of horses tethered nearby

Kells Abbey, County Meath – another convenient bookend as we’d been to Iona Abbey on the Hebrides tour

Cross of Patrick & Columba, Kells Abbey, County Meath

St. Columba's House, Kells, County Meath

Trim castle, County Meath

Killeen castle, County Meath

Croke Park, Dublin, a big stadium for hurling. Bigger than Old Trafford and the biggest stadium in Europe not primarily used for football

For anyone in any doubt as to how big this place is and how popular Gaelic football and hurling are, this pic taken from the internet at the 2004 All-Ireland finals

River Liffey, Dublin

Book of Kells, Dublin

Book of Kells, Dublin, the best shots I could get before being ejected by security

No long drive when we’re back on the mainland, take P&O’s Dublin to Liverpool service....

....and just stagger home from there!!
Many thanks to Ady (Northern Bongolow) for making sure the brakes on the Bongo were going to be up to the trip, mid-expedition supplies of discs were not likely to be possible in the depths of rural Ireland.
Would we go back? – Definitely, I thought the best areas were the SW corner, the Clare & Kerry region and especially the Killarney National Park area. I’d go for a cruise of the Cliffs of Moher which we had planned to do but tides & weather didn’t suit so there were none running the day we were there – I’d also take the trip to Skellig Michael to see the 7th century Gaelic monastery at the top of the rock, but again the timing didn’t suit our itinerary.
We didn’t use any campsites so can’t comment on anything in that regard but there’s plenty of wild-camping to be had and we found some great spots to stay. You’ll notice a big difference in the standard of roads south of the border, although some new motorways have evidently sprung up since we bought our atlas







