Well I installed my GTO's today and found an interesting thing - although they might seem to fit, they interfere with the door card speaker surround. The hole is not big enough to accomodate the cone and it's rubber gasket (the rubber "ring" around the edge of the speaker cone that lets it move backwards and forward). The consequence of this is that the bass you get is greatly reduced (much of the low frequency is lost) and they will distort sooner than they should do when you turn them up.
What is happening is the speaker cone gastket is being squashed against the plastic of the door card - this happens largely at the hinge side of the door.
At first they sound fine, and most would not notice it, but I'm a perfectionist
![Smile :-)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
(fear not, there is a way to post-fix this which I will explain late)
I noticed when I was test fitting the door card back on. I did this with good low frequency music playing (Chicane, Giants) - so I could hear if there was any interference, which I suspected there would be after measuring the hole, and the speaker before hand. As I pushed the panel/card back on tightly the speaker immediately lost the good low bass, and also most of it's "thump". It was still fairly "bassey" make no mistake, but no where near what it was capable of.
Bear in mind I trimmed the pod, and fitted the brackets in a way that absolutely minimised wasted space and I still got interference. So the chances are, if you have fitted these, you are getting it too.
![Image](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l235/dodgey99/Bongo%20Conversion/2012-04-12122611Small.jpg)
Above - the door card untouched...
![Image](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l235/dodgey99/Bongo%20Conversion/2012-04-12122847Small.jpg)
Above - now I've trimmed of the plastic inside the grille, AND the raised lip around the edge of the speaker hole. I did this as I suspected it would foul the speaker.
![Image](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l235/dodgey99/Bongo%20Conversion/2012-04-12123047Small.jpg)
Above - the pod untouched.
![Image](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l235/dodgey99/Bongo%20Conversion/2012-04-12123247Small.jpg)
Above - the pod with the "outer lip" removed to get a nice flush fit - the B&D power file makes this a 30 second job.
![Image](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l235/dodgey99/Bongo%20Conversion/2012-04-12123509Small.jpg)
Above - with the supplied metal bracket fitted - one screw hole added on the bottom right. Because I've removed the lip I recover and depth loss from using this bracket. It also affords a good air seal for better bass.
![Image](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l235/dodgey99/Bongo%20Conversion/2012-04-12124052Small.jpg)
Above - Speaker fitted..... with the plastic gasket protector that is shipped with. This is the key to stopping the speaker fouling with the door card. The plastic protector allows the speaker to move through it's whole range wirthout hitting anything. I'm sure it's not what it was intended for but it does a perfect job!
![Image](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l235/dodgey99/Bongo%20Conversion/2012-04-12124139Small.jpg)
Above - the plastic spacer with the largest lug cut off (I scored the cut with a blade and then snapped it off) - this lug might come in useful (see later)
![Image](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l235/dodgey99/Bongo%20Conversion/2012-04-12124439Small.jpg)
Above - the spacer in place - Note - I offered up the speaker to the door without the spacer and as known buy others here, it fouls on a large bolt head behind the magnet. The space neaded for it to clear it is exactly the depth of the spacer! There is no way of getting the speaker further in. If I removed the outer metal ring then the speaker would foul the bolt again.
![Image](http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l235/dodgey99/Bongo%20Conversion/2012-04-12125749Small.jpg)
Above - speaker fitted.
What happens now, is the door card wont' full go back on - but only just! - not enough to cause a problem. It leaves a gap at the hinge side of less than a finger thickness. This is minimal enough to allow all of the bottom "friction" lugs to snap back in, and all of the screws to go back in. The door's inside upper screw goes all the way in, and the one below it, closest to the speaker (on the door-hinge side) goes "some" of the way back in. I did mine enough to be secure, but not overtight so to not risk crashing the transparent plastic gasket protector on the speaker.
This leaves a near-finger gap, only on the inside middle fo the door..... See below...
Which you can't see from any angle as it's on the inside of the door at the hinge side.
The sound bloody fantastic!
Now - if you have most likely thrown the plastic rings out, fear not. The other solution is to put a spacer of some sort between the door card and the door where the lower "hinge-side" door screw goes in. You could use the plactic lug cut-off I mentioned earlier. You will have to space it out a little more than the way I've done it as you would not be spacing the panel in the right place - i.e. right at the speaker's edge.
There is one caveat to all this. It MAY be that the little raised lip that ran around the inside of the door card speaker hole, that I removed (in the 2nd photo), would have landed in just the right spot on the JBL speaker frame and held it away from the door card just enough to stop the unwanted contact - though I doubt it as it wasn't a very big lip at all.
It would be interesting for someone to test (who has fitted these of course!) - just pull the door card out at the bottom, and remove the two door screws on the hinge side of the door panel - this will allow you to play music with a good deep bass line, and listen to see if there is a change from when the panel is held on tight, and when it is pulled away a bit. It woudl take literally 2 mins to test.