Leaking Diesel Injector Pump

[progroup]

Hello to all! Anyone familiar with or repair/serviced their FIP on a Bongo diesel?

My other account on Bongo Forum is 'MyITGuyDave'. I HAVE POSTED PICS THERE!

My 1995 Bongo Free Top has been running really well up to three weeks ago. During our colder weather here in November on the coast of BC, Canada, the Bongo would die after about 5 minutes from cold start.

Closer examination reveals definite leaks underneath the FIP dripping from the rear housing area. It is NOT leaking from any supply tube connection from the pump to the nozzles. I have previous serviced the injectors upon head replacement back in June.

I would appreciate any help or stories where I could glean something.

My plan is to now remove the FIP from the vehicle and proceed with a bench rebuild. I am in receipt of the correct ZEXEL-Bosch service repair kit containing all seals and washers/shimes. Source of the leak is not conclusive. I will be posting a new session #20 on my YouTube account 'BongoBonnie' sometime this weekend. I have videoed and taken pics of the diagnosis so far.

I am all alone here - still no other Bongos or Bongo Parts in BC yet.

Holiday Cheers,
Dave

[westonwarrior]

The leak is normaly done on the vehical so a good How to with pics from a bench stripdown and rebuild would be fantastic
I have never done the seals myself but it seams the rear seals are the ones to check

good luck with it

[maxheadroom]

try this link it should help

http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... al#p129685

[Northern Bongolow]

merry christmas max.
from his description it sounds like it is leaking from the odd shapped nut in the centre of the outlet pipes.
this has a seal under it if you make a tool to remove it,but as this is the high pressure side it may be best to remove it and do a full strip down.
some of the members have a video of a full strip and rebuild of this type of pump, and there are some good exploded parts drawings out there, but on these i have noticed they arnt very accurate around the side seals/plates, the shims are not shown, but i suppose this can vary depending on the need to shim.

[progroup]

Thanks to all for your ongoing support!
What would we do w/o forums, eh?

My favorite Fuel Injector shop is rebuilding the nozzles. But I am left with doing the pump myself. Another 'Rodney Kim - BongoBonnie' video in the making.

A couple of q's....

what type of dial gauge is used to zero the pump's position upon refitting?
what type of pulley tool is used [name?] to remove the shaft at front of engine?

I am ready to remove the acorn nut 19mm on the shaft. I do not have a better method than to offset or couter pressure the crankshaft bolt to losen the pump nut. Any preferred methods?

My shop is still not built yet; so I am doing this re & re work outside.

Keep in mind that each mech job I personally undertake on a Bongo is not easy because we have no knowledge, parts, or support locally. Even my shop colleages do not want to touch it! I may as well be located in Sybiria or Easter Island!

Holiday Cheers,
Dave - BongoBonnie.

I plan to call Snap-On tools here for specialty type gauges and/or pulleys. Any suggestions would be helpful!

K

[progroup]

try this link it should help

http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... al#p129685

Yes, thanks! I did review this wonderfully documented fix. However, mine is more severe because I have leaks coming from the square rear cast housing instead. But I have the complete reseal/washer/shim kit from ZEXEL-Bosch.

I have been researching/reviewing the internet and Bongo Fury's database for rebuilding this type of pump. Any other links I may be missing?

Dave

[maxheadroom]

does this help?

[Diplomat]

However, mine is more severe because I have leaks coming from the square rear cast housing instead.

If the drip is from the lower set screws that hold the rear part of the pump together the leak is internal which will mean a pump off job.

Instead, I have effected a temporary 'cure' by cleaning off the area with spirit (Methanol, NOT White Spirit) and then applying wet suit glue (Stormseal) over the screw heads and the adjacent areas.

This won't cure the internal leak but it certainly stops it leaving the pump housing. It is also relatively easy to do.


Frank

[progroup]

However, mine is more severe because I have leaks coming from the square rear cast housing instead.

If the drip is from the lower set screws that hold the rear part of the pump together the leak is internal which will mean a pump off job.

Instead, I have effected a temporary 'cure' by cleaning off the area with spirit (Methanol, NOT White Spirit) and then applying wet suit glue (Stormseal) over the screw heads and the adjacent areas.

This won't cure the internal leak but it certainly stops it leaving the pump housing. It is also relatively easy to do.


Frank

Hi Frank; never would have thought of that trick! But I have left the pump a dangling while I purchased another smaller puller tool set to force the shaft aftward. Then it is off to the bench where I will reseal the unit as required. This will unlikely be a full disassembly because I do not want to disturb calibration.

Has anyone tried or attempted to boost the little engine that could? A degree or more advance timing beyond the 1 degree standard? How about fuel pressure boost? Is there any way to get more stock power? Any HHO water injection enthusiasts out there?

Cheers,
Dave

[progroup]

Hello all and those helpers I thank you very much for the tips.

As it turned out, my Bongo's injector pump was leaking from multiple locations which I ended up completely rebuilding and resealing.

This was an arduous task because Canada dones't have any Bongos or mechanics familiar with them. Even CraigsList doesn't list anyone. So, with only a Bosch seal kit and a few pricey thrust washers, I rebuilt the pump based on internet diagrams. But, no one would dare calibrating for me w/o an $800 CDN deposit. I had no choice but to undertake it myself.

That said, I have some new news to report:

1. In some ways, the motor runs better than before.
2. Re & Re and rebuilding the pump was a bit awkward at times - don't bother if you know local Bongo mechanics
3. I had to monkey with the linkage settings a lot - low/high idle ranges, rough idle, pump timings, etc.
4. Road tests reveal similar power on medium throttle, but no passing gear or kick-down possible.
5. Slugash performance; what's causing it? Pump timing? Govenor settings inside the pump? Throttle/Trans Linkage. ECM?

The shift pattern has been altered since doing the work and the HOLD light remains flashing during operation.

It is my hope that some of you will be able to shed some light on this. A similar experience? Are there any Bongo mechanics in the club? Who knows best about these issues dealing with the FIP?

Any additional help would be well received!

Cheers,
BongoBonnie

[dandywarhol]

Sounds like the pump timing is a tad out.

The Hold light problem sounds like the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) has a fault or needs reset.

Well done on overhauling the pump though - not an easy task! And I haven't done a Bongo one!

Probably a bit late now as I just came upon this thread...........

http://gnarlodious.com/Vanagon/Bosch_Pump/-Rebuild.html

[progroup]

Sounds like the pump timing is a tad out.

The Hold light problem sounds like the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) has a fault or needs reset.

Well done on overhauling the pump though - not an easy task! And I haven't done a Bongo one!

Probably a bit late now as I just came upon this thread...........

http://gnarlodious.com/Vanagon/Bosch_Pump/-Rebuild.html

Yes, I am in agreement about the TPS. Do you know the method for resetting a Bongo ECU? Due to the rebuild, I have had to play with adjustments on the TPS to get proper upshifts. Still, I cannot downshift with full throttle even up a hill until vehicle speed reduces enough for the autobox's internal govenor downshifts for me.

Yesterday, I went on a 100km milk-run around neighbouring towns. One stop included my Fuel Injector & Pump rebuilders. They listened and observed and commented that the pump timing was near dead on if maybe a little advanced. Smoke was normal. The van drove beautifully while warmed up and down the highway. But a cold start it runs really rough then konks out!

I suspect some fuel delivery problems AND still need to resolve the flashing HOLD light, ECU, and TPS. The later three items may all be connected. Another thing I found on this forum makes reference to a 'Banjo screen/filter' in the inlet. I remember refitting this filter upon assembly of the pump. But I do not recall a spring! I did have a rogue spring on my bench but no schematic showing where it went. I assumed this spring rolled in from another unrelated project.

Could this spring AND/OR filter be the reason for rough or poor performance? I am all alone here sorting out this kafufle (sp?)!

[progroup]

Oops Oops!
Since my last posted reply I discovered that the above schematic provided by Maxheadroom show the filter as #251 and the rogue spring #252 located in the Inlet pipe banjo nut.

I will remedy this oversight and report back.

Cheers,
Dave

[progroup]

LARE ENTRY:
okay folks; problem resolved!

Apparently, I found out that nearly ALL imported JPD vehicles have or had 'leaking' problems primarily due to the sudden diet of North American Ultra-Low Sulphur Diesel Fuel in US & Canada.

I noticed this first after filling up weekly in Point Roberts, Washington, USA, a mere few kilometers from where I am Tuesday nights. Thus taking advantage of the reduced US price for fueling up. I save about 20% or every 5th tank full is free!

Suspiciously as I can be; I wondered why the pump would leak in more than 4 or 5 places simultanuously. Every rubber seal was noted to be 'rock' hard and brittle.

Resealing the pump is the same as rebuilding it except for some NEW hardware parts required.

After the reinstallation; new issues were discovered that were not present before removal. The one I haven't resolved yet is the TPS sensor. While doing a text book diagnosis; I must have shorted out the power fuse to the ECU. A simple $.90 fuse fixed this and I am still NOT resolved with identifying which code the flashing HOLD button is displaying.

For now, my Bongo is back albeit NOT well! Calibration and proper linkage adjustments would have helped.

Even with my willingness to pay a handsome fee to my pump rebuilder if they would machine calibrate the pump, they declined solely on the basis of it being a Bongo. Even though this pump is a typical Bosch VE series [same on Cummins 5.9 12v & VW TDI's]. They supplied me the parts from Zexel, but are only interested in a bench build if they start fresh. Their cost starts at $800 but maybe $1,200. My Bongo's market value or the definition of Fair market Value FMV is about $1,000.

Maybe I could list it for sale on eBay cheap; and someone in the UK with pocket change can import it from Canada. That is my only exit plan at the moment. My initial cost was $5,000 CDN; but I am now over $3,000 more in parts and service outside of my 100 or so hours and education on the product.

If I can stabilize the ongoing troubles and stop the nickel & dime aspect for repairing it every other week, then I must keep it 2 years to get back the utility value and offset the expenditure.

In summary, I would recommend that the casual mechanic might explore the re & re aspect of the FIP; but should insist a rebuilding shop due the recalibration [NOT possible after reinstall!]. The rebuilders can insure the pump is working correctly. Then it is only a matter of timing to the engine and minor adjustments when running.

Thanks to all for your loyal support on the subject and all of the links and diagrams to assit me in recovery.

Cheers,
Dave
ProGroup/YouTube 'BongoBonnie'

[dandywarhol]

Surely someone can provide pro with pump timing info - I'm sure it's in the New Zealand sourced translated factory manual.

The Bongo shop on the forum stock the manual but it ain't cheap.

In my experience with diesel pumps it isn't enough to just "hear" the timing is correct - even to a highly trained ear - the setting is to 0.1 mm accuracy from memory, someone with the manual can confirm.

Have you tried the flash code procedure as explained in the fact sheets? That'll identify the problematic area.

Don't know about the Zexel kits but the Bosch seals I replaced were "bio friendly" to deal with modern fuels - and were green coloured to identify them.