Manifold stud

Optimist · Post by **Optimist** » Sun May 01, 2011 11:06 am

Morning Bongonauts,
Just noticed I am missing the no.1 stud( I think) empty hole to left of the heat shield?? I've checked the others and they are all there ok.
Having read many scary stories ,warped manifold etc I know I need to get it fixed ,although there are no other symptoms no squealing etc.
My question is ;is it ok to use the van until I can get it sorted ?
Thanks a lot
Optimist.
'95 2.5 Diesel black over silver AFT
SW London

dave_aber · Post by **dave_aber** » Sun May 01, 2011 11:09 am

Continue to use it, you won't do much harm. When it starts to squeal like a slipping fan belt then it's leaking.

Best bet is to have the manifold removed, skimmed and refitted with new studs where required.

Optimist · Post by **Optimist** » Sun May 01, 2011 11:16 am

Ok thanks very much for the speedy reply.
I've just changed the rad and thermostat and she/he/it seems to be running cooler than before. Would a hotter engine create more chance of warping ? or am I barking (up the wrong tree?)
thanks again
Optimist

dave_aber · Post by **dave_aber** » Sun May 01, 2011 11:35 am

I'd doubt that the difference in coolant temp would have much effect on the exhaust manifold temp, maybe a very slight one.

Top tip - before you attempt to remove the manifold, or send it into a workshop for stud extraction / skimming, get a good dose of plus-gas, loosol, WD-40 or similar onto the EGR take-off on the back of the manifold. You'll need to remove the heat shield to get to it. Obviously, don't drive much once you've soaked the fitting in oil or it will just evaporate and smell. Might as well give the other manifold mounting bolts a skoosh whilst you are at it. The EGR union can be extremely tight.

Optimist · Post by **Optimist** » Sun May 01, 2011 11:42 am

Ok
Will do.Thanks again
Optimist

321Away · Post by **321Away** » Mon May 02, 2011 12:28 pm

dave_aber wrote:I'd doubt that the difference in coolant temp would have much effect on the exhaust manifold temp, maybe a very slight one.

Top tip - before you attempt to remove the manifold, or send it into a workshop for stud extraction / skimming, get a good dose of plus-gas, loosol, WD-40 or similar onto the EGR take-off on the back of the manifold. You'll need to remove the heat shield to get to it. Obviously, don't drive much once you've soaked the fitting in oil or it will just evaporate and smell. Might as well give the other manifold mounting bolts a skoosh whilst you are at it. The EGR union can be extremely tight.

The egr is a 36mm nut and as dave says drown it in wd40, 1 tip i will say is actually have a bash at lossening whilst the engine is hot, they seem to release easier? that or get a big pair of grips!

helen&tony · Post by **helen&tony** » Mon May 02, 2011 12:54 pm

Hi
Errr...by way of a first try, you could drill out the old stud with manifold in situ, and re-tap for a new bolt...A local lad did this for us...it has lasted several years...took an hour all in!
Cheers
Helen

haydn callow · Post by **haydn callow** » Mon May 02, 2011 1:00 pm

helen&tony wrote:Hi
Errr...by way of a first try, you could drill out the old stud with manifold in situ, and re-tap for a new bolt...A local lad did this for us...it has lasted several years...took an hour all in!
Cheers
Helen

That's the way I did it and the new bit of stud has lasted 4 years to date....as said...about a hours work.....use a cobalt drill and drill a 4mm pilot (easier to centre) hole then whatever size your new stud is.....I helicoiled mine

Optimist · Post by **Optimist** » Mon May 02, 2011 8:36 pm

Thanks for all your replies.
Cheers
Optimist

Manifold stud

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