Engine cut out

[ziggi]

Hello all, I've started to have a problem/s with our 2.5ltr TD Mazda Bongo Friendee. Running on Diesel, so no mod's for fuel.
Here's the problem/s,
1 - When started from cold, either over night or a long day. It starts fine and ticks over (Started to 'miss' recently until warm, I always leave to warm up as we live in New Zealand under Mt Ruapehu, so it's cold at times) It pulls away fine, but when I start to slow for a corner, it compleatly cuts out, with all lights coming on throughout the dash. I then turn it over as to start, and on the 3rd time it kicks in and were away. NOTE, this only happens when cold, when it has been running for 15 - 20 km's or more (so Engine is warm) it is no issue at all, starts fine from short stop, no 'missing' or cutting out at all when Engine is 'fully' warm.
2 - Recently (last 2 days) on a straight part of road, it 'misses' as if I've applied brakes or hit a gust of head on wind, this again has only happened from a cold start, prior to it running and the Engine being warm at which point, it runs fine.

Recent history just in case it may help.

1 - Refurb' Turbo fitted, and manifold welded 14 mths ago
2 - Ceramic glow plugs 13 mths ago
3 - New Turbo to manifold gasket 6 wks ago, garage made a 'botch up' job of manifold first time (think there's still a slight leak, being checked)
4 - Serviced every 10'000 km's and currently in for it's 180'000 service as I type this.

We've owned this Bongo for 3 years, with no issues, only wear & tear. We have done 75000 km's in her over the 3 years (in which we were in UK for 10 months, so it's closer to 2 years of running)

Any ideas or suggestions please.

Thanks

Andy

EDIT. Forgot to mention, mech' who's servicing it mentioned it may be electrical? But is looking now.

[gmaczbongo]

What are they changing at the services.
Have they done the fuel filter recently.
A run through with some injector cleaner are the cheapest options and then move from there.

[Northern Bongolow]

lift the drivers seat and see if the cold start is activating when you try to start it,it should preset before the engine starts if the vacuum is holding.then as it warms up it should drop to halfway,then as it gets to running temps it should drop off altogether,if its not adjusted properly it could come off early and maybe try to stall the engine until it is up to temp.
is it a winterpack model,with 2 starter batteries?

[mikexgough]

Symptoms been on here many times........ I have always diagnosed Diesel Injector Pump and mostly been correct.... You could I guess start and try cleaning it and the injectors by running a new diesel filter full of injector cleaner......then if it still stalls like you say......I favour the Diesel Injector Pump as your problem....

This Web Link gives all the information on Bosch/Zexel pumps I can give you the Part No./ Diagrams if needed.....for Bosch/Zexel cross reference ......Just remember.....Zexel are the Japanese name for Bosch....

[wormey]

I'd go with mike on this one, but do try the other cheaper options.

[wonkanoby]

glowplugs have been known to fail inside a year before

[321Away]

glowplugs have been known to fail inside a year before

i've seen glow plugs afial inside lot shorter than that!! we had a customer bring her car to us after a non bongo garage full service, with starting problem and all 4 'new' glow plugs they'd installed were faulty, even that said i've seen lots of glow plugs that will pass a basic test (continuity) but still dont work properly or take too long to glow.

That however wouldnt cause the cutting out! check the fuel cut off solenoid and also the tank breather (try driving it with fuel cap off)

Julian

[Tripewriter]

My first guess would be air in the fuel filter this would be caused by a leak in the fuel line somewhere. Have a look under the drivers seat is there any sign of diesel leaking from A. Fuel Filter. B. Fuel Pump C. Fuel return to tank.

If you park on a slope park it the other way round tonight and see if the problem is the same tomorrow.

All the other answers are above.

Good luck mate.

[bigdaddycain]

It sounds to me like the classic symptoms of the fuel pump starting to fail. But please do rule out the fuel filter etc first. Best of luck!

[ziggi]

Thanks for all the advice, I am working my way through it all and hope to get the garage to work with me to cure it.

The Mech' who did the service advised me he found a 'split pipe and damaged switch/valve so he glued it for now' I've yet to pin him down to show me in detail what he did (heavy snow, mountain shut & work etc) just not had time to see him. he told me it was under the drivers side, and was on the top of engine? It ran really well for a couple of weeks after service, but is again playing up a little, so I want to find out what he did and get it on here for your thoughts.

Sorry to be bit vague, but I'll get all the info when I see him, show him all your comments and let you know.

On that note, whats the best way of getting a photo up on here to show you?

Thanks again

Andy

[Northern Bongolow]

that sounds like the fast idle control .
under the drivers seat ,at rocker cover height there are a pair of electric/air valves,these control the fast idle SET,HALFWAY OFF,AND FULL OFF.
check the operation of both of these 2.
the white marked one on the right sets the fast idle when cold(choke on).then when half warmed up the one on the left comes on and sets the throttle/choke to half way,then when fully warmed up they both go off,and the end of the cable pushes the little plunger at the stop end.
these are well known for being very brittle where the air pipes connect to the valve body.
if one or both are broke you can repair,or mitsibishi 4x4 deisels have them on the nearside inner wing from a breakers yard.

[jaylee]

We talking about these things again Ady??



Dont forget the one on the right activates to keep the idle up when the AC is on too.

[Northern Bongolow]

thats the blighters thanks jamie.

[ziggi]

That is the one! Spoken to Mech' and he confirmed it was the right hand side.

Could you advise on the setting for the plunger? My plunger seems to have so much thread remaining out the back that when it does engage it's 'only just' making contact, to the point where I'm not sure if it puts any pressure on the throttle at all?

The last two mornings I've started it with cover up so I can see what goes on in there, the plunger engages (just, as mentioned above) and after 2 min' dead on, it returns to it's former position, no in between A - C with no pause at B.

I'll get to the scrap yard to have a look around.

Thanks again, really helpful.

Andy

[Northern Bongolow]

when cold,and the ignition is switched on,the right hand solenoid clicks,and sets the throttle to (choke)approx 800-850 revs,during the warm up period, in your case 2 mins,as the motor continues to warm,the left one clicks/opens,and the right one shuts for a split second to let the throttle drop to half way,then both switch back open again,to create an even vacuum to hold the throttle half way.then as the temp rises the third and final stage is fully off,and the plunger is pressed by the end of the cable.
it sounds from your description,that either the left solenoid is not working electrtically,or the vacuum pipes that are entering or leaving this valve are leaking,trace them from the common feed to both valves,through the valves to the actuator.
the right hand solenoid feeds the actuator at the left hand side,and the left solenoid feeds into the actuator at the underside middle.
when warmed up the motor should tick over at 750 revs.
the right hand solenoid also picks up the throttle when you activate the aircon switch to compensate for the added load on the engine,as jaylee says, so when setting it all up and testing,make sure the aircon is off to start with.