Antifreeze type?

[Daveysplod]

Hey all,

sorry - I know this has been covered before - I've spent a few hours hitting the forum search and found lots of opinions on other threads. But, I'm just as confused now as when I started and really don't want to get this wrong!

My low coolant alarm sometimes goes off when the ignition is on (accessory) but the engine is off - not immediately and not that little test bleep but a proper alarm that starts gradually, gets stronger and keeps going. It only alarms very rarely when I'm driving and then only on long tight bends. I've checked and the level is fine. But, my mechanic did a quick test and found the antifreeze strength is low. I think the false alarm is due to the low strength.

Mine is a 2.5litre turbo diesel 98. Imported last November. Importer said they'd replaced the coolant but I don't trust 'em - I can't imagine the strength would be low after less than a year.

So, I'm assuming my antifreeze hasn't been changed since Japan.

I've booked the truck in with my friendly local mechanic for a service and for the coolant to be drained, flushed and re-filled. What sort of antifreeze should we be using? As we're flushing it there shouldn't be a problem with compatibility with the old stuff- but I don't want to use something that'll melt my rad or something!

I just don't understand OAT from non oat. My mechanic is 'non bongo specialist' but he's done my cars for years and I trust him - he says he plans to use 'red' - does that sound alright?

Thanks very much for your advice!

cheers, and happy motoring,

davey.

[mikexgough]

Many of us here use Car Plan Premium Red or similar makes which are a G12+ coolant Long Life and OAT...... Up to 5 years protection...

[Doone]

I just don't understand OAT from non oat.

I think Mike put it in a nutshell ON THIS LINK

[haydn callow]

Does your "friendly local mechanic" know how to bleed the cooling system ??? has he done a Bongo before.....if not I would go elsewhere as a mistake in the cooling system bleeding could cost you loads..if he says it's just the same as all the others ....it isn't.
Ask him where the bleed pipe is located.

[haydn callow]

Are you sure your coolant level is o.k. ? can you see the level through the side of the tank.....looking down the neck is not a good indicator......put a "lolly" stick vertically down the neck of the tank.....it should be "wet" for 2cms. The coolant would have to be very weak to fool the Low Coolant Alarm.

[Daveysplod]

Cheers all!

Mike - great recommendation - if its good enough for you guys its good enough for me! I'll pass on the specs to my mechanic friend so he can get the right stuff in for me.

Doone - thanks for that - I'd been searching 'Antifreeze' - so I'd found lots of scattered info... but not that page.

Haydn - no - my local mechanic hasn't 'done' bongo's before. This does make me a little nervous - but he's thorough, methodical and has many years experience. I've booked the truck in for a time I can stay and offer help, I've got the workshop manual with the Mazda instructions and I've got the fact sheet from here. I'd prefer to work with him because I trust him - he's looked after my cars for about 15 years and never let me down. I have explained the complexities of the system and offered to take my truck to a specialist for that part of the job but he's confident he can work it out. If the worst happens and I do have an airlock my truck has your wonderful low coolant alarm and TM2 - with your previous guidance and my previous numbers watching I know what temperatures my truck runs at and what the danger signs are - I think I'll spot early signs of any trouble so I can stop before I get a 'meltdown'.

And yes - coolant level is fine. My expansion tank is pretty clear so I can see the level clearly (especially if I rock the truck a little bit). When the alarm started firing I read up on the forum and learned a lot - I checked all the wiring and removed/cleaned the 'sensor' screw. I'm guessing that the alarm firing is a combination of weak solution (my mechanic found it to be low strength) along with a slightly lower battery voltage - it goes off almost exclusively when I've been listening to the radio for about half an hour with the engine off - I reckon the voltage dips a bit by then.

I'll let you know how I get on.

Thanks again for all your advice and patience!

cheers, davey.

[haydn callow]

If half a hour of radio affects the battery voltage then I would suspect your battery is on the way out or not being charged properly (or a bit of both)

I have bled about 20 Bongos using the method in the fact sheet and it has always worked for me...However at the Bash last weekend I picked up some very useful "extra" tips and in future I will amend the method to include the new tips.....There should be a comprensive vidio out soon with the whole process explained in "we think" simple terms.

[Daveysplod]

If half a hour of radio affects the battery voltage then I would suspect your battery is on the way out or not being charged properly (or a bit of both)

I have bled about 20 Bongos using the method in the fact sheet and it has always worked for me...However at the Bash last weekend I picked up some very useful "extra" tips and in future I will amend the method to include the new tips.....There should be a comprensive vidio out soon with the whole process explained in "we think" simple terms.

Hi Haydn,

yes - I had wondered about the state of the battery and charging system. But it made it through the winter with no problems and always fires quickly. Modern batteries seem to go from good to dead almost immediately - however prepared I'd like to be I guess it will take me by surprise when it happens! I shall have the charging system checked out - this is an excellent point and well worth doing while the truck is being serviced. Thank you.

Great - the more 'bleeding techniques' out there the better - particularly ones that work in simple terms. I'm planning to work with my mechanic on bleeding my system so I can get a real grasp for how it all works.

Cheers for now,

davey.

[Ian]

Doone - thanks for that - I'd been searching 'Antifreeze' - so I'd found lots of scattered info... but not that page.

The debate about type of anti-freeze has been summarised and placed in a fact sheet, which you can find in the members area at http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/member ... factsheets

If you have any further additions for the fact sheet, post comments here.

[mikexgough]

Good fact sheet.............I wonder if there is any merit in adding the facts that the G11 & G12 coolants....don't mix as they cause sludging and blockages .....plus you cant rely on the colour of your Coolant on import as this is where the mixing of G11/G12 coolants often takes place if a top up is needed, with the advise that a new import or "even a new to you"as you may not know the history, should have a Coolant changed for a UK sourced Coolant.

I agree with the advise for Car Plan Premium Red, although there are other G12+ and G12++ coolants out there

[missfixit70]

Good fact sheet.............I wonder if there is any merit in adding the facts that the G11 & G12 coolants....don't mix as they cause sludging and blockages .....plus you cant rely on the colour of your Coolant on import as this is where the mixing of G11/G12 coolants often takes place if a top up is needed, with the advise that a new import or "even a new to you"as you may not know the history, should have a Coolant changed for a UK sourced Coolant.

I agree with the advise for Car Plan Premium Red, although there are other G12+ and G12++ coolants out there

Best to email Ian with factsheet suggestions/ammendments than rely on him spotting them on the forum.