Arch repair over replace?

[dom_e]

The winter has taken a slight toll on our rear arches, which haven't rusted through yet and don't look too bad, but show signs of near future problems.

I wondered whether it's feasible to cut out the exisiting arches, treat to remove the rust, repair with extra metal if required, treat again, then re-weld them back in place. Is this a viable option over buying second hand arches or sourcing Transit or other compatible ones?

Cheers
Dom

[dobby]

Ian Taylor is doing mine at the moment, I've asked him to cut out all that he finds. Bit like dry rot in a building and then reinstate after that.

I think cutting out and refixing will be a fiddly job and the worst bit for rust is the seam/lip? Also, the saving in costs would be light and the difference between standard and transit etc is not so significant?

If you want to delay it as long as possible, fill the voids up above the arches with waxoyl, dinitrol or oil? and let it last another summer and winter? I did mine with Dinitrol via the cubby panels in the rear panels and also via the rear light cluster grommet. I'll do them again with waxoyl once they've been repaired.

[mister munkey]

Untill such time as its showing nasty scabby blobs, theres probably a couple of winters left in them. Depends really on how long you're willing to put up with a blemish before it becomes an eysore. More importantly though, rusty arches may well be a sign of nastier, structural rot below. Have a good rummage around to make sure no ghastly horridness is under there.

[Scott]

I've just had mine done, sanded down, any rust cut out completely and new steel put in, sanded, skimmed and painted.

Then I got a set of spats and mudguards (presents) from the bongo shop. Just need to get them painted and fitted and well waxoyl it, should last a while and hopefully I won't have to spend any more on it

[dom_e]

Thanks for the replies.

It occured to me this morning that you'd have a gap missing equal to the saw (or whatever is used) width, so it's a bit of a non starter in some respects. That's a good point about a lip / overlap - rust would love to start at those points I guess.

I had originally done my own repair when they started to rust before the winter. I sanded / dremmelled back, anti-rust primered, painted and lacquered. At that time, it was surface rust on the inside lip, expending in small areas to the outside of the panel and slightly more at the rear-most corner. It's come back now (obviosly I didn't get rid of the rust sufficiently before painting over), with small evidence of a bubble forming (will take a pic).

Perhaps I'll have a poke around and start over with cutting back and re-painting.

I'll also pull the panel off and attempt to waxoil the inside (a bit tricky since I have a hook up panel built into one side).

[missfixit70]

Just remove the door pockets, you can do it through there.

[dom_e]

Sadly there is a panel with 240v and 12v sockets in built over the door pockets on the passenger side. I'll see if it's possible to remove teh half tha isn't covered without drilling out all of the rivets. I may be able to get in by removing the RCD and 24v sockets, but a quick look suggested it wouldn't be easy to see where you're squirting the stuff.

[dave_aber]

Probably easier to pop the whole panel off. Remove the seatbelt bottom mounting, get the seats out of the way (slide or remove depending on what type you have) and pop the panel off. You will lose a clip or 2 - try to see where they ping to.

[dobby]

Probably easier to pop the whole panel off. Remove the seatbelt bottom mounting, get the seats out of the way (slide or remove depending on what type you have) and pop the panel off. You will lose a clip or 2 - try to see where they ping to.

Definitely the best way, but if not possible then the grommet hole for the the rear light clusters is an option.

Either way, watch out for waxoyling the seat belts (top tip from Dandywarhol)