power loss on hills

[berrega]

I guess my question is what is the significance of the last two groups of numbers?

my part is: K5T49091 KL01 6Z19


the one with the green connector,..oh and the mitsubishi symbol...

the one I ordered is : K5T49091 / K5T49090

I'm hoping this means they are the same part?

the one described as the air valve is P/N KL01-18-741

The garage tested the brown solenoid you mentioned.
Is this no.3 here?


They said that while the van was runing properly that solenoid
was receieving a pulsing earth signal, which went dead at the same time the glowplug light went on, the vacuum to the turbo turned off, and the power reduced.

Are you saying that this signal is out put from this black solanoid rather than the ECU?

for give my ingnorance. I know nothing of cars...

[berrega]

Acording to lushprojects the part is KL01 18741 which is the same as the air valve on japautosolutions.

if I've got KL01 6Z19 could it be as simple
as someone having put the wrong solenoid in?

[update]

Well Mazda have confermed that the only Air valve a vehical of my VIN is KL01 18741
which means that both the one I have just ordered and the one currently on there are not of the correct type.

So its looking like Mazda 626/Mx6 air valves are not compatable with the bongo.

Could this be the cause of all my problems?

well cross fingers anyway...

[kozikot]

My Part No is K5T4 9091/ KL01 6801 but think the last 4 digits are the serial No as everyone I've seen has had different numbers after the KL01

Note also mine is a 2002 T/D so has the Bigger Turbo,and the Acuator works vertically

[berrega]

Oh, right, so it looks as if the one i've ordered initially will work fine then.
But i've ordered one from mazda too just to be sure.

Having two if them wont hurt i'm sure.
If it fixes it I'll just be so relieved.

This issue that worries me is that the last garage said that the vaccum went to the turbo via the brown solanoid and that was turned off because the pulsing signal to the white earth wire stopped.

They said that by applying an earth to the white wire, the vaccum came back.
this being the case doesn't it mean that the vaccum flow to the brown solanoid from the black on isn't the problem but rather the pulsing earth signal it recieves electrically?

If the black solenoid is duff would it alter the signal along the white wire in any way?

Presumably though the back solanoid could fail, at which point the ecu could shut down the signal to put the system into limp mode?

I am still waiting for the solenoids to turn up but I have some new symptoms, so I may as well add the to the thread for info.

1) The van has trouble starting from cold inthe morning. It It is very 'lumpy' and spirts out white smoke for the first 30 secs. It then settles down over the next 5 mins as then engine gets warm.

2) I've notice that the loss off power actually comes on gradually just before the glowplug light starts flashing. Over time the accelerater become more and more unresponsive until eventually the glowplug light flashes. Is it at this point I loose the turbo fully. At the point the light starts flashing, I can smell a weird sell (exhaust fumes?) and start to feel sick and get a sore throat. (unless this is psychosomatic)

[berrega]

My confidence is slowly growing so I thought I would investigate the turbo further.

Power off - the Wastegate is open by a spring - no boost.

Turn the ignition - A vacuum is generated which sucks the wastegate closed, so turbo pressure can build. I can hear a turbine start whirring.

As soon as i pull away in first gear, I've got loads of acceleration

When depressing the accelarator fully, the earth is removed from the brown solanoid, the valve closes, the vacuum is shut of, the wastesgate is opened, releasing presssure.

Once the van is warm or has been driving for about 10 minutes, the vaccuum starts failing and the waste gate starts loosing pressure.

when the glowplug light starts flashing, the earth pulse is completely lost, the valve closes, shutting off the vacuum and I have no turbo , until next morning.

appologies for repeating myself, but hopefully I'm providing a little more information.

Does this all make sense to the Bongo experts? Or would they say that my Turbo hoses are definitely configured wrongly?

I've got my heart set on the new solenoid fixing the problem, but I want to cover all bases...

[berrega]

No,.... replacing the 'air valve' has no effect.

I give up

This thing has made my life a misery, rather the opposite from what I had intended.

And the new radiator is giving off cololent fumes which are making me sick and giving me a headache everytime I drive it.

[mikeonb4c]

No,.... replacing the 'air valve' has no effect.

I give up

This thing has made my life a misery, rather the opposite from what I had intended.

And the new radiator is giving off cololent fumes which are making me sick and giving me a headache everytime I drive it.

You've been very unlucky. My advice would be to bite one final bullet and take it to someone who knows about Bongos (print the posts on here out and take them with you too). Even if you want to sell up, its worth more mended than bust. Good luck

[berrega]

As one last attempt I'm going to ask Ian taylor of market Draytons Japcarimport to have a look,
but to be honest I've given up hope its fixable.

The only question is how do I sell it, when it isn't working properly.

I guess I could just take the glowplug light out and pretend it doesn't have a turbo fitted....

[edit]

I've been doing some more research,.... and there is no reaction from the engine (when iddling, or driving)
whether the 'cold start switch' is depressed or not. Would the cold start exhaust valve being,
stuck closed, cause the ECU to put the vehical in limp mode?

[Doone]

Would the cold start exhaust valve being, stuck closed, cause the ECU to put the vehical in limp mode?

We have the older Bongo... when our 'cold start' exhaust valve jammed, we experienced some loss of power on hills, but the main thing was that the fuel consumption went from 26mpg to about 17mpg.

I've been looking through the forum again to try to find some help for you.

Did you previously mention fault code 1228?
I mentioned before that 'BongoJim' has the newer type Bongo like yours. He also had that fault code.
I've looked back through his posts about it, and he had many tries at fixing it, as have you.
He tried also tried a new sensor and a new turbo, but still had the problem.
Eventually, he discovered that the problem was due to a vac tube collapsing under certain conditions.....therefore restricting vac... SEE THIS LINK

Also 'slingersurf' has the newer type Bongo and had similar problems, which took a while to sort... he eventually found the solution himself by manually moving the vacuum rod several times (under passenger seat) & spraying some contact oil on electrical plugs. SEE THIS LINK.

Unfortunately this is all I can find about similar problems on the newer shape Bongo.
If it doesn't help, I'm sure your mechanic will be able to sort it. These things are easier when you can 'see' the problem.

[mikeonb4c]

I think if Ian Taylors people can't fix it then (I bet they'll enjoy the challenge as a change from run of the mill problems) you really will be having bad luck.

Good tips from Doone there (print that post out too and take it along)

Fingers crossed you'll get this sorted and never look back. A good Bongo is a great car

[dandywarhol]

As one last attempt I'm going to ask Ian taylor of market Draytons Japcarimport to have a look,
but to be honest I've given up hope its fixable.

The only question is how do I sell it, when it isn't working properly.

I guess I could just take the glowplug light out and pretend it doesn't have a turbo fitted....

[edit]

I've been doing some more research,.... and there is no reaction from the engine (when iddling, or driving)
whether the 'cold start switch' is depressed or not. Would the cold start exhaust valve being,
stuck closed, cause the ECU to put the vehical in limp mode?

I touched on this on the other thread - Don't know about it knocking into limp mode but did you actually check the operation of the exhaust valve - press the switch/look at the box on the exhaust - does the lever move?

[berrega]

To be honest I dont know where the lever on the exhaust is so I dont know where I'm ment to be looking.

But if you could describe its location to me I will check tomorrow.

[missfixit70]

I posted the link to lushprojects on one of your previous threads

http://www.lushprojects.com/bongopartsm ... mgno=.html

http://www.lushprojects.com/bongopartsm ... mgno=.html

The info's all there, you just gotta read it

[berrega]

Sorry, in my rushing to read things it appears I keep missing bits.

[dandywarhol]

Check item 13 - 540 for movement when you operate the switch- there should be vacuum or pressure at the pipe to actuate the lever - it looks like it may be linked into the wastegate circuit
http://www.lushprojects.com/bongopartsm ... mgno=.html