Heater not working - linked to overheating problem? (V6)

[casrockbongo]

Hello
I wonder if anyone can help? We have had a few issues with the bongo recently! Firstly a water pipe burst underneath the van, closely followed by the van overheating - which led to needed a new waterpump, the cyclinder heads needed to be skimmed and new head gaskets etc. (It's a V6) So the van is running OK now, but I am concerned about a number of things.

Firstly the internal heater does not seem to be working. Even when on 32 degrees, it is luke warm air coming out. Could this be linked to the overheating problem? If not, what is it?

Secondly, we have driven 650 miles since having the cyclinder heads done etc. I have noticed today that the water level in the radiator thing - techie term! - is not far above the 'low indicator' level. Considering we have just had the van serviced - this seems to have gone down very quickly?

So -does this sound like an underlying problem that needs addressing - anyone any ideas?
Be really grateful of your help!

[missfixit70]

Sounds like you may have an airlock, was the sytem bled properly (factsheet in the members area)?

[casrockbongo]

Thanks - I have just had a look at the fact sheet and certainly sounds like that might be a problem . .would that account for the rapid use of the coolant? Is that likely to be a leak somewhere?

[missfixit70]

If it keeps going down, then I'd say you still got a leak somewhere, check all the hoses & pipes, there's a lot of them. Have you got a coolant level/temp alarm fitted at all?
Did they change the thermostat when they did the rest of the work?

[mister munkey]

When the system is first bled, no matter how thouroghly, chances are some air will remain in the system, creeping up to the header tank overnight & will need a top up the following day. Take the expansion cap off before starting up in the morning & listen for a hiss.

Chances are its as simple as that.

BUT. If the front heater is blowing out cool, it points to there being air in the system somewhere still.

Suggest keeping miles to a minimun until its sorted otherwise you could be looking at another pair of head gaskets looming or possibly worse.

[widdowson2008]

Agree with all Kirsy and Mr M said, but would add:
Don't run it!!!
Find the cause of coolant loss and FIX IT first......... that is unless you have wads of brass and can live without your Bongo for a while

[casrockbongo]

wow u guys really know your bongo's!!
Thanks for your advice. Will ring garage in the morning!
Kirsty . . Yes we have had a new thermostat fitted . . .

[mister munkey]

Wikipedia:

Anorak (slang)

In British slang an anorak (pronounced /ˈænəræk/) is a person, usually male, who has a very strong interest, perhaps obsessive, in niche subjects. This interest may be unacknowledged or not understood by the general public. The best known explanation of the term, is the use of anoraks (a type of rain jacket) by train spotters, a prototype group for interest in detailed trivia.

Although the term is often used synonymously with geek, it suggests a greater degree of social awkwardness, isolation, and obsessiveness, and may be associated by some with Asperger's Syndrome. The Japanese term otaku, or the American term, "fanboy", are probably closer synonyms.

Some of that may have a degree of truth to it!!

[lpgimports]

Water loss is the worry needs bleeding properly and a pressure test on the system will highlight any leaks, amazing how often we come across a weeping hose joint or a pin hole in a pipe, none of these show at tick over but at 60MPH with the system under pressure they leak!

Also check that the rods on the heater control servos to the flaps on the side of the heater have not popped off, have seen this before.

Paul

[karena]

is a pressure test something that a local non bongo specific garage could do ? -we are at the end of our tethers with ours at the moment, seems whenever we replace something another leak pops up.

[karena]

forget the last comment just been informed this time its the front heater radiator.

[apole]

Hi there,

I would also check the thermostat. Reason for this is it maybe faulty or if it's been replaced there is a good chance it could be the wrong one.

Last year I replaced my thermostat, the one I was sent fitted fine, looked identical but it was the wrong one and the car was impossible to bleed properly. Found that out the hard way.

I bought a genuine mazda one from the bongo shop, the difference was obvious, easy to bleed and all worked as it should.

Was this checked on yours as part of the work?

Has the garage since done a test to see if exhaust gasses are in the coolant, and a pressure test to see if there is a leak? Both easy to do with the right kit and would give you more information.

Mark the header tank when hot or cold, then you have a level to compare against.

Given you've had failry major repairs recently you do need to get to the bottom of this and ensure all is well before using the car.

Also get a low coolant alarm and ensure all the other hoses are in good condition to avoid a repeat.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Andy

[casrockbongo]

Thanks again for advice.
Have rung the garage today - Hillside Leisure in Derby (they didn't do the head gasket/ cylinder head work - it was a garage we were towed to) - they are going to have a look at it on Friday. I have made a note of all your advice and will pass it on to them. Have asked them to do a bleed of the system and a pressure test. I am also going to ask them to flush out the system as reading on the forum has made me think best get any gunk out of the radiator as well!

Interestingly my husband told me that when he drove back from London in the van on Sunday that the front heater blew hotter then colder sporadically - weird?

definitely going to get the thermostat checked as the garage we had the work done at had a problem getting the part etc. and replaced it twice.

Anyway - how fantastic to have an online community of helpers here! Thanks again

[lpgimports]

Pressure test is something any half reasonable garage should have, goes on in place of the rad cap and little pluger pump is used to pump up to the pressure in the system. Other versions can connect to the air line etc.

Very useful as in a blown head gasket car you can see pressures rising and in leaking ones it will make them leak from the tinest weep or pin hole.

Block tester again any decent garage should have this like a cylinder of glass special fluid goes in it and a bulb goes above it to draw the air in the rad tank through, any presence of combustion gases will change the colour of the liquid and indicate a blown head gasket or more.

On the subject of bleeding etc and sporatic heaters, it is useful to feel and squeeze the rubber pipes as it has been known for these to solidify with crude inside if you find a hard bit squeeze it and break up the crude and then check all other pipes more throughly small bore pipes are especially prone to this. We had a Subaru the other week where a bleed pipe had done this and we solved it the chap had previously had a radiator head gaskets and ultimately an engine replaced trying to solve his overheating issues...

We also find a laser temperature gun invaluable as you can point and click and find temperatures, brilliant for finding you have a cold spot in a rad indicating a blockage or a pipe that is not getting as hot as it should be.

Paul

[mikeonb4c]

Pressure test is something any half reasonable garage should have, goes on in place of the rad cap and little pluger pump is used to pump up to the pressure in the system. Other versions can connect to the air line etc.

Very useful as in a blown head gasket car you can see pressures rising and in leaking ones it will make them leak from the tinest weep or pin hole.

Block tester again any decent garage should have this like a cylinder of glass special fluid goes in it and a bulb goes above it to draw the air in the rad tank through, any presence of combustion gases will change the colour of the liquid and indicate a blown head gasket or more.

On the subject of bleeding etc and sporatic heaters, it is useful to feel and squeeze the rubber pipes as it has been known for these to solidify with crude inside if you find a hard bit squeeze it and break up the crude and then check all other pipes more throughly small bore pipes are especially prone to this. We had a Subaru the other week where a bleed pipe had done this and we solved it the chap had previously had a radiator head gaskets and ultimately an engine replaced trying to solve his overheating issues...

We also find a laser temperature gun invaluable as you can point and click and find temperatures, brilliant for finding you have a cold spot in a rad indicating a blockage or a pipe that is not getting as hot as it should be.

Paul

lots of good info there Paul

Sounds like West Midlands Bongos should head your way for service and repair work if you take that kind of stuff on?