Coolant Alarm

[bakey]

Really useful chaps; thanks for taking the time to reply.

My 'Aldi spesh' doesn't have the bluetooth option..., but I will put a switch to A4 (yellow), and an in-line fuse (for good luck!), which should mimic the ignition being turned off. This on the basis that others who do not have their radio connected to a LB, but have a permanent live, don't seem to be having any trouble.

Any suggestions for a nice switch, fuse and cable rating?

Thanks, Mike

[dave_aber]

The only other thought I had was to rig up a relay to do the switching, and power the coil from the 'normal' ignition stereo feed - and have the switch wired in parallel to the relay contacts.

This way, you have the convenience that the ignition switches off the stereo (still powered from the L/B) when you switch off.

Then, when camping you flick the switch to allow the stereo to work direct from the L/B.

[dvisor]

I've just had a quick google on Aldi car stereos, and it seems that this is quite a widely reported problem - at least it is with slightly earlier models. Here's an example from another forum:

Well pleased to say the support email for the Tevion replied promptly to my chase email.

They say the unit does require IGNITION SWITCHED power on its red/ISO7 lead and NOT a permanent feed.

I really don't understand much about autoelectrics, but it certainly seems that adding a switch to Pin 4 (as you suggest dave_aber) will solve the problem. I've got a spare rocker switch in my dash already, so I'll give that a go. Thanks for the advice.

[dave_aber]

They say the unit does require IGNITION SWITCHED power on its red/ISO7 lead and NOT a permanent feed.

Surely they mean ISO4, not ISO7?

[dave_aber]

Just checked the wiring diagram for the 40648 (Aldi Special) on the web. ISO4 is permanent (memory, etc) and ISO7 is the ignition feed to operate the unit. This contradicts the info I linked to in my earlier post.

So, I'd be checking with a meter (on a non-LB wired unit) to see if it is ISO4 or ISO7 which goes live with the ignition. Could be that the Aldi Special and the ISO standard differ - and this may have an impact on the issue with battery flattening. However, my stereo (apart from locking up every now & then) behaves as you would expect - comes on with the key, goes off when you switch the key off, and doesn't flatten batteries. (No LB fitted yet)

If it's just that the info I linked earlier is incorrect, then it is ISO7 which you should be wiring to your spare switch, not ISO4. I'll do a bit more googling and find out the standard.

[dave_aber]

Hmmm... Seems that the 'standard' isn't completely 'standard'.

http://web.onetel.net.uk/~uncletony/in_car.htm
http://www.isham-research.co.uk/quattro ... sopin.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_10487
http://www.bluespot.co.uk/stock/iso.asp

Looks like our German friends sometimes reverse the Ign and Perm 12v lines. Aldi, German supermarket, radio designed for the German market?

Worth checking what the Bongo with a Mazda <-> ISO adaptor is wired for. Can't do that myself since I'm away from home (and Bongo) right now.

[bakey]

I'll get the meter out at the weekend and report back

Thanks for the replies

Mike

[mister munkey]

Nice bit of homework there Dave.

[bongolow]

I've only just spotted this thread. I've also got the Aldi Bluetooth car radio and it does drain the battery - it was draining my leisure battery in about a week if I didn't use the car. I found it was drawing 310mA.

I fitted a small toggle switch just below the radio, at the left of the cubby hole, and it definitely needs to be in the feed to pin 7. Leave pin 4 permanently connected as this is the one that maintains the preset memories. It now draws less than 10mA with the switch off.

I used a micro toggle switch from Maplin but I think I might change it to an illuminated switch as I sometimes forget to switch it off.

[bakey]

Right then...

As a number of you have pointed out the switched live is pin 7 (it's the red cable on the ISO loom). So new switch in place, this one: http://bit.ly/5a5EoN which fits perfectly in place of one of the dash blanks. So all wired up and working - let's see what impact it has on my LB now

Thanks for all your help fellas

Mike

[bakey]

PS the only problem now is that I chose a red LED switch which sits right next to my coolant alarm of, as you know, the same colour! Already had a couple of heart-in-mouth episodes mistaking the glowing radio switch for the coolant alarm

I'd suggest getting a green or a blue LED...

Cheers

Mike

[bongolow]

And don't forget to turn off the internal light if you've just nipped in the car at night to check something.....

Vince (who's battery is now on charge in the house as it was as flat as a pancake again and who will have to, yet again, re-enter all his radio presets).

[dvisor]

err...daft question! I've just installed a switch on pin 7 and seems to do the job fine, but I was a bit surprised when the little red LED kept flashing even when I pulled out the connection on fuse 8 (which goes to my leisure battery). Presumably pins 4 (memory) and 7 are fed from fuse 8, but what feeds the little LED? Is the LED on pin 6 (panel light), and if so, where does it get its power?

[g8dhe]

Pin 4 normally the +12 volt permanent, is fed from Fuse 1,
Pin 7 normally the switched +12 volt, is fed from fuse 8 which is switched by the Ignition.
So unless you pulled out Fuse 1 as well there will still be power going to the radio.

[bigdaddycain]

Instead of bothering with switches, can't you simply keep the permanent live connected to the L/B (hence the drive power is sourced from the L/B) and take the ISO7 (switched live) to the main ignition? If my very limited electrical knowledge understands that right, then surely the stereo still sources it's power from the L/B, yet the switched live sources it's power from the main battery? (which would be isolated via ignition off). Or have i missed summat?