Please help overheating

[windsorcube]

I have a 1995 Bongo 2.5 Turbo Diesel was overheating bad had a TK test done for combustion gases confirm fault with head gasket issue remove cyl head and replaced head and new bolts due to crack between seats. I have fitted a new thermostat had the rad flushed as well damn thing still overheats I am mechanically inclined and did the work myself I know these can be a real pain to bleed, what is the best procedure? I tried several times funny thing the lower hose does not get hot it only begins to get hot once I drain the cooling system from the radiator. Please help! Cheers

DaN

[wonkanoby]

there is a faq sheet in members d/l

you will never bleed it un less you let it run long enough to crack the stat

and get bottom hose hot

[nfn]

If bleeding does not stop the overheating, it may be that whatever caused it in the first place is not fixed: flushing a seriously blocked radiator won't unblock it. You could get the radiator flow-tested to rule it out as the cause.

[321Away]

agree with above posts, kettle test the rad and check results, and for a quick 'fix' just to check, remove the stat altogether, bleeding bongo's is a fine art.

Julian

[haydn callow]

Bongo BLEEDING Instructions (use yourself or INSIST your garage follows them)

This is the way I have done it many times with no problems...There are other methods



NOTE.. (Before you start) Get a large funnel and cut the spout so the bleed tube will push up into it nice and tight.. Don't take the bung out of the pipe yet.

1..remove the plastic air scoop from under the bonnet.
2..remove the pressure cap off the expansion tank.
3..remove the pressure cap from the rad and fill to brim if it is not already full.
4..replace rad cap.
5..fill the expansion tank to the FULL line.
6..release the rad cap till coolant overflows and tighten rad cap.
7..top up expansion tank to FULL
8..under the passenger seat ..find the coolant bleed tube...remove the bung and push up into funnel.
9..half fill the funnel with premixed coolant.

Note..by raising/lowering the funnel and adjusting the engine revs you will from now on be able to control the level of the coolant in the header tank & funnel.
At no point from now on allow the funnel to empty or the header tank to drop below FILL.

10..start the engine...switch on heaters.....rev to 2500 for 3 mins....idle for 1 min.
11..keep repeating this cycle until the heaters blow hot and switch the heaters off.
12..carry on with the rev 2500/idle cycle..raising and lowering the funnel...you will have to do this for about 30/40 mins.....UNTILL THE BOTTOM HOSE GETS GOOD AND WARM..(stat open).

Once this happens carry on till all bubbles stop and replace the bleed tube bung (wear gloves..very hot)put the bung in as coolant is flowing out so no air can sneak in.

Top up the tank...replace the tank cap.....go for a drive and keep a eye on coolant levels for a few days....should be o.k. If job was done properly.

THE SECRET IS TO GET THE BOTTOM HOSE HOT WHILST BLEEDING (STAT OPEN)

[windsorcube]

when you say remove the bung what are you talking about? I found the bleed hose is the bung on the block?

[missfixit70]

At the end of the bleed hose.

[windsorcube]

the problem with mine the replacement head had a 2 fitting connector I only have 2 hoses 1 goes to the turbo the other is a large heater hose
my old head had a fitting for 3 hoses which I assume was for the bleed hose. What do I do now?
I tried getting the old fitting out before but it was seized in. Can I make a tee? to retrofit the hose?

[haydn callow]

Sounds as though you have fitted a Ford Ranger head

[Doone]

If it is a Ranger head, you can buy the adaptor piece you need, there is some info on THIS LINK.
You can get double and triple adaptors, so make sure you ask for the right one. If you can't get the part anywhere, my hubby has them in stock. (I've sent you a pm with his contact details in case you need them). You should find it's easiser to bleed when the adaptor is fitted. Hope this helps.