waxoyl advice

[Jules59]

Im intending to waxoyl my Bongo when it arrives. Ive got access to hydaulic lift and waxoyl sprayer. Anyone got any usful advice about where and where not spray ? What about door cavities and sills ? What about inside wheel arches , is it worth removing wheel arch liners?

[liggy]

Yes remove both front and rear wheel arch covers the more of the underneath you can waxoyl the longer your bongo will last. Hope this Helps

[MountainGoat]

Have a look and see how the professionals do it. This company has done quite a few Bongos including Mikeonb4C's, Rhod's and mine.

http://www.chassisclean.co.uk/

Tony

[Jules59]

ta - that was useful - I hope to do in the next week or so - before they start putting salt on the roads.

[veebug74]

Done many a car on my back ,a padded trolley is handy to scoot underneath easy ,trolley jack,axle stands,compressor, schultz gun for the wax.
Go to ur local body shop supplies and get polly sheet to cover bongo with and some masking tape ,its cheap.
Personally prefer clear waxoil can be bought from stax trade centres cheap.
Would be inclined to jetwash/steamclean uderneath ,some car washes have chassis cleaner jets .
Or find a local haulage company that has a steam cleaner ,or drive over wash bed.
Goggles and all in one throwaway boiler suit with hood from b and q is a must .
If u want to do inside box sections drill and plug holes ,frost restoration do blanking plugs for this purpose.
Waxoil needs to be warmed up ,tried using a pump kit never again.Compressor and schultz gun is the future.

[dave_aber]

FWIW, if you don't have a compressor, and need to use the Waxoyl pump kit, use it with the black waxoyl. The white stuff clogs the gun much more readily.

And - get a big bucket of really hot water, and a nice warm garage to do it in. Don't let the waxoly cool down until it's out the gun and on the car.

[mikexgough]

when I had my waxoyl "topped up" 2 weeks ago, my pal used a shutz gun and compressor while being up on his lift platform jobby, he and his assistant removed some previously used blanking grommet thingys for box section injection - job done......
I warmed the waxoyl up on my radiator (new tins) before heading off to the lockup unit for application, they then warmed it again so it flowed better.....we used black on mine... although I do have some spray of the "clear" stuff for top up and for time like when I fitted a new towbar....

[mikeonb4c]

when I had my waxoyl "topped up" 2 weeks ago, my pal used a shutz gun and compressor while being up on his lift platform jobby, he and his assistant removed some previously used blanking grommet thingys for box section injection - job done......
I warmed the waxoyl up on my radiator (new tins) before heading off to the lockup unit for application, they then warmed it again so it flowed better.....we used black on mine... although I do have some spray of the "clear" stuff for top up and for time like when I fitted a new towbar....

Yup - Chassis Clean, who Dinitroled my Bongo, pointed out I had a few missing and I made sure to get some replacements and put them in afterwards to avoid ingress of water etc.

[Trouble at t'Mill]

Hi Jules.

It's a messy job, but soooo worth while.

I can't post a direct link to it, but I started a thread with a number of other contributors on this very topic over a year ago called "Undersealing - a tiny bit of extra info" which explains how to get better access to the tricky parts. Hopefully it can be found with a 'search'.

Something I'd recommend is to thin the Waxoyl a fair amount when it's to be fired into tight recesses and cavities. It'll travel and 'creep' further and will get drawn by capillary action into crevices and panel joins and seams - really important for the front and, especially, rear wheel arches (inside), doors, side sills, (you will find a row of bungs along there which can be prised off, etc.

Spray it neat on the the normal exposed areas underneath - chassis sections, floor panels, under arches, etc.



If you don't spray inside the wheel arch cavities, sills, doors, etc, you will actually be missing the sections which will definitely rust in time.

If you cannot - or don't want to - remove the door interior panels, at least fire a good spraying of well-thinned Waxoyl up through the drain holes (but make sure they are clear afterwards) or use a thin extension probe to actually get up through these slots.

Very likely your car will stink of the stuff for a couple of weeks afterwards - especially inside! - and you won't be popular, but the smell will disappear. Just don't do the job before going on a camping trip...

[Doone]

I can't post a direct link to it, but I started a thread with a number of other contributors on this very topic over a year ago called "Undersealing - a tiny bit of extra info" which explains how to get better access to the tricky parts. Hopefully it can be found with a 'search'.

Here it is CLICK HERE

[mikeonb4c]

As Dandywarhol reminds us, make sure you don't block breather on the thingamebob (differential housing is it - help me out someone?). Also I've been told (by Casis Clean who did mine) don't spray diffs, gearbox area etc. as it can have an insulating effect and promote (detrimental) hot running. Also been told that normal waxoyl should be redone annually in external areas exposed to road spray etc. as it gets blasted off over time - the expensive Dinitrol stuff that Chassis Clean etc. use doesn't have that problem and I think you can use that OK for DIY work so may be worth the extra dosh for the external stuff (internal and spary free areas are fine with normal waxoyl)

[Asda Bongo]

Any idea where I can get those rubber bungs for the holes in the cills. I have lost one inside the cill and another has fallen out. (also what are they called as I have searched for them on the forum and online with no success.)

[mikeonb4c]

Any idea where I can get those rubber bungs for the holes in the cills. I have lost one inside the cill and another has fallen out. (also what are they called as I have searched for them on the forum and online with no success.)

I bought a pack of assorted 'blanking' grommets from my local motor factors (one of those rotating 'same brand' stands with packs of all sorts). Annoying to have to buy packs to get just one or two of the right size but they didn't sell them individually. Not a big expense anyway

[helen&tony]

Hi
I have , in the past hammered wooden plugs in...works just as well
Cheers
Helen

[Trouble at t'Mill]

Doone - no-one likes a smart arris... (Ta...)

I'm used to the old Finnegan's Waxoyl - great stuff - but noticed that the last can I bought on-line was by Tetrosyl - tho' still called 'Waxoyl'.

Does anyone know if it's the new owner or is the Finnegan's still around? Is the new stuff much different - it certainly looks a bit like it.

Cheers.