problem's problems. (temp reduction mod question)

karlos · Post by **karlos** » Mon Sep 28, 2009 5:12 pm

I order my [u]starter contacts[/u] today to combat that issue - Temp repair holding out ok so far.

Thought I would give the bongo a quick check today as I havent yet given it a good inspection to make sure it should get me to my destination tommorrow to get that gearbox. -Found a pin prick hole in hose (lucky at the top near the end) so I cut a bit off and remade it - a bugger to seal as the inside of hose was slightly pitted with a bit of corrosion-

Have now ordered the samco type hose of ebay as some one on here suggested. Hope the hose holds out -Inturnal inspection didnt look to bad and is still plyable not cracking.

Question - it looks like I knocked it off when altering the big water pipe -driverside to the top of the head ish -, a rubber pipe 6mm ish which comes from in front of engine to the side by water pipe., looks like it definitely slips on to a thin metal pipe that is routed up to the rocker cover where it goes back to rubber in a tee peice then connects to the throttle assembley actuater type thing.

This open end rubber pipe seems to be pulling a strong vacum and I suspect it may work similar to a vacum advance on a distributor. I'm sure when I put it back on to the meatl pipe where it looks made to go it ran bad - lumpy acceleration and the 22mm ish metal pipe that runs parrell with the air intake (plenum tube) to the engine looked hot but it may have been spilt coolant "smelt oily though? -I've pulled it off again and the engine seems to works fine - confused .com (I may just be being paranoid about the running carracteristic? I didnt know if I pluged something pulling a vacum on to a breather

( but the liitle rubber pipe lays/is shaped to lead to where I connected it and is a snug fit on this little brass coloured verticle pipe? I wouldnt have thought anything pulling a vacum would have an open end, at least it would have a filter on it?

Will get my temp water temp deg gauge next and probably the coolant alarm after todays discovery.

What is the erg ( I know thats wrong) or something like that mod to do with cooling a few people have mentioned. Blocking off or diconnecting?

Post by **westonwarrior** » Mon Sep 28, 2009 5:18 pm

A picture of the pipe would help enormously in helping with the loose pipe and where it goes

The EGR is the recirculator system from the exhaustto the inlet and it gets sludged up causing more trouble than its designed to fix

Also there is a great fact sheet about the EGR and how to blank it here

http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/member ... ts/EGR.pdf

Post by **Doone** » Mon Sep 28, 2009 5:29 pm

We've blanked the EGR (using Allan's blanking plates) on 2 of the 3 Bongos/Fredas we've owned, (one had the EGR valve stuck). More EGR valve info HERE

karlos · Post by **karlos** » Mon Sep 28, 2009 6:03 pm

Thanks for the info - great, the egr thats a mod on all race engines, I presume it still passes emmisions test ok.

This little pipe is not oil or water. it runs from the front timing belt cover around the engine driver side - is rubber about 6mm ish. It appears about halfway down the lump near the front, near an electrical connector and near the bend on the big coolant pipe the goes to the head. there is a small brass looking pipe with a tab on it that bolts is to the engine that it looks like it connects to. this brass/yellow zinc looking pipe rises vertically to the rocker cover area. This brass pipe looks similar to the injector pipe but is no where near it. (sorry camera at work) I think the brass/plated pipe goes in to rubber tube again where it connects to what likes a diaphram/actator on the throttle assembley.

I'm guesssing it some kind of vacum that has an effect on fueling or throttle a bit like vacum timing advance on a distributor? Like said I'm sure it goes on where I had it but it seems to run ok with out it connected. If you took the coolant hose to head off the driver side off you would notice it, it's quite low down in the engine bay area where the coolant hose bends from verticle to horizontal to run forwards to the front of the van.

I know it's peein in the wind a bit with out a pic - not sure if it's detrimental to have it disconnected because I'm not sure what it does exactly but it seems to runs ok?

karlos · Post by **karlos** » Mon Sep 28, 2009 6:24 pm

Just looked at it again - this metal pipe (open end) that the stray open ended rubber pipe looks to go on.

The verticle small diameter metal pipe connects to a tee peice behind the small black electrial boxes with mitsibushi symbols on, attached to the rocker cover, the metal pipe definatelty changes to rubber pipe/tee piece where two rubber pipes connect to the actuator valve type thing on the diesel pump not throttle assembley. when I put that rubber pipe on to the small metal pipe it definitely makes the engine less reponsive although it still looks like this rubber pipe should go there?

Will get some pic's on here soon but for know gonna have to drive it as is.

Post by **westonwarrior** » Mon Sep 28, 2009 6:52 pm

could be the cold running actuator or air con advance

maybe its broke and thats why its not in place

http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... n+actuator
is that it?

karlos · Post by **karlos** » Wed Sep 30, 2009 1:21 pm

Got the gearbox changed the Gent is a member on here I believe was great, HIGHLY RECOMMENDED "GATWICK AREA" -I contacted him via Andy at ava leisure who trades on 01234 480 808-

He knew his way round the bongo - he brakes them sells bits and does repair work which was to my satifaction, (very high standards). " He talked me through a through a few things to look out for and gave me some tips" He also rectified the problem with the little hose that was loose (vacum) one of the electrical valves on the rocker cover had broke of a connection so some one had carried out a mod -reverted to standard.- All work carried out to bongo fury updates and mazda workshop manual spec, with addition checks made at the same time,

Just wish He lived more local -

I Now have reverse - Did't use a drop of water on my 280 mile round trip,fuel economy good, no problems. (will change the hoses to silicon any way) The chap pointed out a buldging hose under the sump too.

Happy,happy! (appears to be a good one touch wood or something like that.)

mikeonb4c · Post by **mikeonb4c** » Wed Sep 30, 2009 2:19 pm

karlos wrote:Got the gearbox changed the Gent is a member on here I believe was great, HIGHLY RECOMMENDED "GATWICK AREA" -I contacted him via Andy at ava leisure who trades on 01234 480 808-

He knew his way round the bongo - he brakes them sells bits and does repair work which was to my satifaction, (very high standards). " He talked me through a through a few things to look out for and gave me some tips" He also rectified the problem with the little hose that was loose (vacum) one of the electrical valves on the rocker cover had broke of a connection so some one had carried out a mod -reverted to standard.- All work carried out to bongo fury updates and mazda workshop manual spec, with addition checks made at the same time,

Just wish He lived more local -

I Now have reverse - Did't use a drop of water on my 280 mile round trip,fuel economy good, no problems. (will change the hoses to silicon any way) The chap pointed out a buldging hose under the sump too.

Happy,happy! (appears to be a good one touch wood or something like that.)

Great news - hope you have many happy miles of Bongoing. So, overall you now seem to have a good Bongo at a good price

dandywarhol · Post by **dandywarhol** » Wed Sep 30, 2009 4:51 pm

ditto

It would be interesting to open up the old 'box and see what went wrong................

you would have a good suppy of bits to sell too - the solenoid pack is a common one to get replaced

karlos · Post by **karlos** » Wed Sep 30, 2009 7:10 pm

Dandy

thats what I intend to do - Just out of curiousity, To see if I can see what caused no reverse.
If it looks do able I might recon the box as a spare. It looks in better condition exturnally (low milage bongo) obviously the insides will not be.

Today I noticed the fan in the engine bay, cut in briefly when I switched on after traveling at 30mph ish for a while? oil/water etc. etc. ok ( I know this has ambient sensor above motor but to cut in the engine must have got warm?) Do these fans often cut in on/after slower journeys, I presume the engine isnt getting much air cool air flow - might look to imporve flow rate!

Also going to do the exhaust valve mod - who wants dirty warm air going into the intake? will look at dandys hose removal verses making some stainless steel plates like gaskets. I presume this valve requires a vacum to opperate? Have not lookled into it yet.

I wonder if the vac pipe remove prior had deactivated the egr because the motor seems a little more lame all reconnected as should be with a new solonoid and maybe has raised running temp a bit?

Gonna waxoil the sills etc as I have some kicking around and andy said they can rust and it can be tricky to address. He recommend to change the desseil pump orings to because they look like they are just about to start leaking.

missfixit70 · Post by **missfixit70** » Wed Sep 30, 2009 8:19 pm

Egr info here - http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... 43&t=14463

dandywarhol · Post by **dandywarhol** » Wed Sep 30, 2009 11:22 pm

I've only noticed the air fan cutting in in mid summer Central/S outhern European temperatures, certainly not in Autunm Blighty

Post by **Simon Jones** » Wed Sep 30, 2009 11:42 pm

karlos wrote: Today I noticed the fan in the engine bay, cut in briefly when I switched on after traveling at 30mph ish for a while? oil/water etc. etc. ok ( I know this has ambient sensor above motor but to cut in the engine must have got warm?) Do these fans often cut in on/after slower journeys, I presume the engine isnt getting much air cool air flow - might look to imporve flow rate!

Which fan are you referring to? The one at the front of the engine is known as the scavenger fan & will kick in when the temperature around the engine gets a bit warm (sensor is by the handbrake lever). It also comes on with the aircon, so that is the most likely explanation. There are also two fans behind the radiator which are there to drawer air through the radiator as the coolant temperature rises (sensor on the drivers side of the engine)

karlos · Post by **karlos** » Thu Oct 01, 2009 10:09 am

It was the fan in front off the engine cuts in off engine bay temp!

It cut in after short crawl up a track (25meters) cut in briefly when I parked up, then again briefly when I fired it up. - I imdediately checked all fluid levels were ok, (coolant was warm but not boiling, pressure/ coolant tank filler cap overflow and inner wing bone dry?

was ok on way home, stopped to check no fan. Again today into town no fan. - I have topped coolant up a touch

but didnt cut fan in on m25 crawling/stationary traffic ques on way home???

Post by **Simon Jones** » Thu Oct 01, 2009 12:58 pm

Might be a dodgy connection at the top of the sensor by the handbrake. If you pull the connector off the sensor, then the fan will start up.

Did you have the aircon switched on at time?

problem's problems. (temp reduction mod question)

problem's problems. (temp reduction mod question)

Re: problem's problems. (temp reduction mod question)

Re: problem's problems. (temp reduction mod question)

Re: problem's problems. (temp reduction mod question)

Re: problem's problems. (temp reduction mod question)

Re: problem's problems. (temp reduction mod question)

Re: problem's problems. (temp reduction mod question) update

Re: problem's problems. (temp reduction mod question) update

Re: problem's problems. (temp reduction mod question)

Re: problem's problems. (temp reduction mod question)

Re: problem's problems. (temp reduction mod question)

Re: problem's problems. (temp reduction mod question)

Re: problem's problems. (temp reduction mod question)

Re: problem's problems. (temp reduction mod question)

Re: problem's problems. (temp reduction mod question)