Electric Window Fault - Fix

[BongoMTBer]

I just though I would post my findings with an intermittent electric window fault I have been having.

I would find that on occasion, I could not wind the drivers side window down. I subsequently discovered that the switch was partially sticking in the up position after the last operation, which I am guessing was either causing the switch or the motor to overheat.

I have not had a chance to take the switch apart yet to sort the problem, but when I am using it now, I always make sure the switch is fully returned to its neutral position.

Hope someone finds this helpful, as it is a lot easier than chasing a broken loom.

[missfixit70]

That sounds simimlar to mine used to be, he lugs on the switch were fubar , rebuilt them with araldite & the reshaped them, lasted for a good 6 months or so, before dying again. The offending plastic switch part was replaced thanks to a kind donation by Jaylee after he'd cannibalised a switch to fix his, no problems ever since

[Diplomat]

I happen to be dealing with this problem currently. Luckily my driver's window switch is ok. The iffy one is the passenger side switch in the driver's side console.

When this plays up neither the driver nor the passenger can control the passenger window as the passenger's switch will only work if the driver's switch is exactly in the neutral position (and of course the PW lock off).

What at first glance look like rocker switches are really just levers that move slider switches in the unit below.

As Kirsty found, the rocker mountings crack and disintegrate. I also fixed mine for a while with Araldite. Their vulnerability is the lifting movement because if they become loose the actuating lever which has a U shaped end jumps up off the spigot of the slide switch and then finds itself not sitting back on it but either in front of or behind it. Still with me?

This puts the slide switch out of contact range.

I haven't done it yet but after re gluing the rocker casing I propose to drill right through the axes of both switches and push a thin steel rod in as a proper axle to back up the feeble pop in plastic lugs that aren't up to the job.

I am glad that I didn't waste too much time suspecting the looms as it would have meant taking off the door panels unnecessarily. We tested the looms, after a fashion, by waggling them whilst the switch was in a good mood. However "If it ain't broke don't fix it" prevailed before a new fault was waggled into the wiring!

Frank

[missfixit70]

Frank are you sure the problem in yours doesn't lie in the switch at the rear of the drivers switch that stops the passy switch working? Mine was a bit iffy & needed the contacts cleaning.

[Diplomat]

"Frank are you sure the problem in yours doesn't lie in the switch at the rear of the drivers switch that stops the passy switch working?"

If only, Kirsty. I checked that one first.

Unfortunately it is the "rocker", cracked where it pushes into its mounting ( to be precise the mounting is cracked not the rocker). I suspect that we both Araldited in the same place!

Incidentally, the position of the slide switch is very critical as it can very easily move out of contact and the detent feel is only built into the rocker in the form of a spring loaded white rod. The slide switch can move freely if the rocker lever does not engage with it correctly.

Found all this out in Jersey, by the way, it gave me something to do on one of those not too late evenings! The Araldite came from my canoe repair kit. Just as well that I take a van load of contingency spares with me.

Frank

[jaylee]

I replaced mine with a 626 switch... They look the same, but a more robust design in my opinion..