I'm off to the local Mazda spares to try and get a new one (part KL0118741 / 18-741C), but maybe I can just swap the solenoids over, if the 'black' one isn't actually needed. They seem to be used all over the place ?
TIA ..
Solenoid valve question
Moderators: Doone, westonwarrior
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duncsuk
Solenoid valve question
Can anyone tell me what activates the left-hand solenoid (with the black connector) on top of the engine in the image below. Both solenoids are connected by vacuum to the actuator in the bottom of the image (under the throttle cable) which increases the engine speed slightly by applying pressure on the throttle. The right hand solenoid (defunct on mine) was activated by the air-condition clicking on/off and during start-up, when cold.
I'm off to the local Mazda spares to try and get a new one (part KL0118741 / 18-741C), but maybe I can just swap the solenoids over, if the 'black' one isn't actually needed. They seem to be used all over the place ?
TIA ..
I'm off to the local Mazda spares to try and get a new one (part KL0118741 / 18-741C), but maybe I can just swap the solenoids over, if the 'black' one isn't actually needed. They seem to be used all over the place ?
TIA ..
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duncsuk
Re: Solenoid valve question
ouch 
£75 for a new one from Mazda !! They suggested Ford (Freda) may be cheaper, but I don't have the part number for that one (yet) to check ??
Think I'll have a good look around for one under the bonnet which doesn't appear to be used.
How could I tell if my EGR has been removed (saw that mentioned in another thread) ?
TIA ...
£75 for a new one from Mazda !! They suggested Ford (Freda) may be cheaper, but I don't have the part number for that one (yet) to check ??Think I'll have a good look around for one under the bonnet which doesn't appear to be used.
How could I tell if my EGR has been removed (saw that mentioned in another thread) ?
TIA ...
Re: Solenoid valve question
if the egr was removed the pipe would be missing (the one that loops/bends backwards from the right bit of the photo all the way through to the left hand side of the photo under the 4 thin pipes that curl over)
you can simply blank it off, contact doone on here or call Allans vehicle services (check the main website for his ad) they sell a pair of blanking plates for £12
, comes complete with instruction with photos 
If yours has been blanked off already you will see a metal plate inbetween the flange and metal bit (dont know what this bit is called
)
see on the photo that the pipe has a flange with 2 bolts at the front of the loop/bend thats attached it towards the front of the engine?, this is where its normally blanked off using plates put inbetween the flange, if you follow the pipe backwards then there will be another flange with 2 bolts as well, this will need a blanking plate as well.
you can simply blank it off, contact doone on here or call Allans vehicle services (check the main website for his ad) they sell a pair of blanking plates for £12
, comes complete with instruction with photos If yours has been blanked off already you will see a metal plate inbetween the flange and metal bit (dont know what this bit is called
)see on the photo that the pipe has a flange with 2 bolts at the front of the loop/bend thats attached it towards the front of the engine?, this is where its normally blanked off using plates put inbetween the flange, if you follow the pipe backwards then there will be another flange with 2 bolts as well, this will need a blanking plate as well.
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BongoMTBer
Re: Solenoid valve question
Just been playing with those solenoids myself.
The RH one with the white plug is as you say for a faster idle when the AC compressor activates.
The LH one is for cold starting, giving the throttle a nudge during warm up. I thought my RH one had failed, so removed them both and had a play.
Not sure if my multimeter was playing up, but I had no continuity on either solenoid when I carried out a con. check.
I then slaved each on, in turn direct to a 12 v supply and they both worked (clunking in my hand and blocking the flow of my sucking through the valve when removed from supply.
With both the plugs disconnected I checked the voltage accros both spades within the RH plug and as the air con kicked in and out, a voltage (12.5 approx) came and went.
I then checked the small hoses that loop over the top and then behind the inlet manifold for leaks by disconnecting at the actuator end, sucking and blocking off the valve end with my finger. The RH pipe was split!
All pipes replaced and the little bugger is working again with the air con. Will check the warm up one (LH) in the morning when engine is cold, although this was fine beforehand anyway.
Hope this helps.
Sam.
The RH one with the white plug is as you say for a faster idle when the AC compressor activates.
The LH one is for cold starting, giving the throttle a nudge during warm up. I thought my RH one had failed, so removed them both and had a play.
Not sure if my multimeter was playing up, but I had no continuity on either solenoid when I carried out a con. check.
I then slaved each on, in turn direct to a 12 v supply and they both worked (clunking in my hand and blocking the flow of my sucking through the valve when removed from supply.
With both the plugs disconnected I checked the voltage accros both spades within the RH plug and as the air con kicked in and out, a voltage (12.5 approx) came and went.
I then checked the small hoses that loop over the top and then behind the inlet manifold for leaks by disconnecting at the actuator end, sucking and blocking off the valve end with my finger. The RH pipe was split!
All pipes replaced and the little bugger is working again with the air con. Will check the warm up one (LH) in the morning when engine is cold, although this was fine beforehand anyway.
Hope this helps.
Sam.