Rust on rear cross member

Nick A · Post by **Nick A** » Sat Mar 28, 2009 12:14 pm

I have just test driven a 98 Bongo that seems in very good condition. There is just one concern that I have. Following advice on Honest John's website I checked for rust on rear cross member above the exhaust. There was a spot, roughly a circle an inch or so in diameter, of rust.

The advise on Honest John was to walk away if you find a rusty one. However, how much rust constitutes a rusty one. Riddled with rust or even just a small spot? Can this be treated or does it need to be replaced? Is it an expensive job?

Please help if you can as I am keen to close the deal as long as it isn't going to saddle me with an expensive repair job.

Many thanks

Nick

francophile1947 · Post by **francophile1947** » Sat Mar 28, 2009 1:50 pm

Welcome to the madhouse

- you didn't read http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... =3&t=29471 did you?

It depends on if it's just a small patch of surface rust, or has eaten through the chassis. You are bound to find surface rust on an old vehicle that hasn't been undersealed.

mikeonb4c · Post by **mikeonb4c** » Sat Mar 28, 2009 8:20 pm

I even had a local bit of severe rusting (gone right through) but it was cheap and effective to have a small plate welded over it. You are of course entitled to haggle over the price of a Bongo in need of rust repair

. And you should check it all over for rust signs. Any bistering around (rear usually) wheel arches is liable to end in some expensive work at some point. Mine went where the n/s cill meets a cross member behind the front wheel arch, so check that point on both sides. Also around the rear heater unit where pipes enter and exit I believe. And finally (and it can be hard to see) the cross member below the radiator plus the brackets that the radiator bolts on to. But as a previous VW camper owner on here reminded me, if you run old campervans then you get used to the odd bit of welding needing doing. It's not the end of the world.

When I looked at Bongos, I saw several (including the one I bought) that had not been waxoyled. You could tell the difference between one where the rust had gotten a general hold and one (like mine) where it hadn't, and which I felt was actually useful as the slight roughing of the surfce would provide a good key for the waxoyl which would itself passivate the metal

apole · Post by **apole** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 5:51 pm

Hi,

Any chance you could get a picture of it, easier for people to advise then?

Rust on rear cross member

Rust on rear cross member

Re: Rust on rear cross member

Re: Rust on rear cross member

Re: Rust on rear cross member