I'm about to change my drop links. According to this forum it's an easy job if I don't have trouble getting the nuts off but I've bought a set of nut splitters just in case. I've not done this job before so a couple of things I'm not sure about and can't find the answers to...
The new drop links have a movable ball joint at one end but the other end appears to be fixed solid, although it looks the same. Is this correct or are they just very stiff? Assuming one end is not a ball joint, and it's not obvious from the old ones when I remove them, which way up does it go?
Do I need to jack up the lower end to take the weight or something, or do I just jack up the car only, as normal?
Aye thang yoo....
Drop links questions
Moderators: Doone, westonwarrior
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westonwarrior
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Re: Drop links questions
i didn't jack the car up at all just crawled under
and yes they are very stiff
and yes they are very stiff
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mikeonb4c
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Re: Drop links questions
Are we talking front droplinks or rear droplinks Bongolow? Sounds like front since you mention 'ball and socket type' s the rear ones are not of the ball and socket type.
The front droplinks can be changed by jacking up one side at a time (or not as westonwarrior opted to do!) to get access. It might seem impossible to loosen the nut without the smooth head of the bolt turning (my memory is vague here) but the smooth head actually has a couple of straight sides so you can get an open ended spanner on it to stop it turning.
The rear droplinks require the whole back axle to be jacked and loaded aas per on the road (i.e. put on axle stands) so that when they are tightened up with the suspension geometry in the normal ride position, otherwise (if done one side at a time on the jack) the rubber pushes might be put into torque and fail prematurely when normal ride position is resumed.
For the anti-roll bar bracket nuts, I'd recommend an extension bar and hex sided (not 12 point 'star' sided) socket, as they can be very stiff.
Good luck
The front droplinks can be changed by jacking up one side at a time (or not as westonwarrior opted to do!) to get access. It might seem impossible to loosen the nut without the smooth head of the bolt turning (my memory is vague here) but the smooth head actually has a couple of straight sides so you can get an open ended spanner on it to stop it turning.
The rear droplinks require the whole back axle to be jacked and loaded aas per on the road (i.e. put on axle stands) so that when they are tightened up with the suspension geometry in the normal ride position, otherwise (if done one side at a time on the jack) the rubber pushes might be put into torque and fail prematurely when normal ride position is resumed.
For the anti-roll bar bracket nuts, I'd recommend an extension bar and hex sided (not 12 point 'star' sided) socket, as they can be very stiff.
Good luck
Re: Drop links questions
Thanks for that. Yes, it is the front I'm talking about. I've been squirting the nuts with penetrating oil for the last three days so I'll give it a go tomorrow. The existing ones on the Bongo seem to have an allen key type hole in the end to hold it.
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mikeonb4c
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Re: Drop links questions
To get a clonk free result, you are probably best to do the anti roll bar bushes at the same time. Are you planning to do that? I followed Dandywarhols lead and made mine good by wrapping some cycle inner tube around the old ones. Cheap as chips, works a treat and if you trim it off nicely I doubt an MOT station would notice, let alone mind (mine didn't!). It all depends if the dreaded nuts holding the brackets on will come loose thoughbongolow wrote:Thanks for that. Yes, it is the front I'm talking about. I've been squirting the nuts with penetrating oil for the last three days so I'll give it a go tomorrow. The existing ones on the Bongo seem to have an allen key type hole in the end to hold it.
Re: Drop links questions
No, I wasn't planning to do the bushes. I've nowhere to work other than out on the street and I don't fancy trying to do that job myself - getting a bit long in the tooth for crawling under cars.. 
If I still get the knocking I'll be giving Adrian a ring at Japan Direct in Bury.
If I still get the knocking I'll be giving Adrian a ring at Japan Direct in Bury.-
mikeonb4c
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Re: Drop links questions
Don't be put off overmuch as provided you can get clearance and have an extension bar and socket, and provided the nuts obey, the ARB bracket / bush replacement is simplicity itself - simpler than the droplinks.bongolow wrote:No, I wasn't planning to do the bushes. I've nowhere to work other than out on the street and I don't fancy trying to do that job myself - getting a bit long in the tooth for crawling under cars..
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Veg_Ian
Re: Drop links questions
It will appear solid because you have the weight of the car on it. Both ends are ball joints and you may just find them to be a tad more loose when you get them off the carThe new drop links have a movable ball joint at one end but the other end appears to be fixed solid, although it looks the same.
Re: Drop links questions
I meant the new ones were very stiff. One end would move fairly easily by hand but the other end seemed solid, and it was the same on them both, so I thought it was fixed. However, I've given 'em a bit more welly and they are now both moving. They seemed to be stuck but now I've freed them they will move as easily as the other end.Veg_Ian wrote:It will appear solid because you have the weight of the car on it. Both ends are ball joints and you may just find them to be a tad more loose when you get them off the carThe new drop links have a movable ball joint at one end but the other end appears to be fixed solid, although it looks the same.
Thanks for that - I might give it a go then.Don't be put off overmuch as provided you can get clearance and have an extension bar and socket, and provided the nuts obey, the ARB bracket / bush replacement is simplicity itself - simpler than the droplinks.
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Trouble at t'Mill
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Re: Drop links questions
Hi Bongolow.
Did this recently on my niece's Bongo. Yes, the ball joints will feel stiff to turn by hand when new (and rattle around when old...).
What I did was to jack up the car and remove the road wheel. I then placed a block under the front lower-outer suspension ball joint (where it joins the hub) and lowered the jack until the car was back down to 'normal' level. The suspension will compress as it would if you were lowering it with the road wheel fitted - there will come a point where it will compress no further and is taking the car's weight. The idea is to have the front suspension 'level' on this side so that it matches the suspension of the other - still wheeled - side, so that the anti-roll bar isn't under any torsion - (that would be fun when you finally release the drop link...)
(I actually used two jacks - the proper Bongo one to raise the car, and a small hydraulic one under the ball joint until the suspension was 'level'. You can tell when it's 'level' because jacking under the ball joint will finally lift the weight of the whole car off of the 'normal' jack. I then lowered the 'ball joint' jack a fraction so that the car weight was taken by the normal jack again.
(Of course you need to ensure all is secure... REALLY, you need to ensure neither jack will slip - just imagine the compressed suspension springing downwards if the jack or block under it slips. Or, don't imagine - I can send you a photo of my flattened finger when I did a similar 'trick' with my Marlin - and that weighs less than half a Bongo...)
I then did the whole job from the outside reaching in from the arch. The original drop link nuts take a 17mm socket, but it'll have to be a slightly deeper one than usual - or one with a larger central hole to allow the protruding ball joint thread to poke through - so's the socket itself gets a good grip. Set your ratchet at an angle that'll allow you to hold it steady while you give it a darn good thump with a rubber mallet. A few good thumps should 'crack' the nut/drop link 'seal'. Simply pulling or prising the ratchet round won't do it - you need a hefty percussive 'thump' to overcome the inertia and crack the seal.
After having 'cracked' it, you'll find that you'll then have to prevent the whole ball joint from rotating as you try and undo the nut further. On the other side of the suspension /anti-roll bar fixing hole - ie: the drop link rubber boot side - you'll need to slip an open-ended spanner or adjustable wrench in there until you locate it on a 'flat' to prevent it from turning. Push the old rubber boot away towards the drop link to allow you to get the spanner in there.
Take care when finally releasing the drop link from its fixing hole - if the anti-roll bar is still under torsion, it could spring down or up!
Ditto for the bottom joint.
Enjoy the clunk-free ride...
Did this recently on my niece's Bongo. Yes, the ball joints will feel stiff to turn by hand when new (and rattle around when old...).
What I did was to jack up the car and remove the road wheel. I then placed a block under the front lower-outer suspension ball joint (where it joins the hub) and lowered the jack until the car was back down to 'normal' level. The suspension will compress as it would if you were lowering it with the road wheel fitted - there will come a point where it will compress no further and is taking the car's weight. The idea is to have the front suspension 'level' on this side so that it matches the suspension of the other - still wheeled - side, so that the anti-roll bar isn't under any torsion - (that would be fun when you finally release the drop link...)
(I actually used two jacks - the proper Bongo one to raise the car, and a small hydraulic one under the ball joint until the suspension was 'level'. You can tell when it's 'level' because jacking under the ball joint will finally lift the weight of the whole car off of the 'normal' jack. I then lowered the 'ball joint' jack a fraction so that the car weight was taken by the normal jack again.
(Of course you need to ensure all is secure... REALLY, you need to ensure neither jack will slip - just imagine the compressed suspension springing downwards if the jack or block under it slips. Or, don't imagine - I can send you a photo of my flattened finger when I did a similar 'trick' with my Marlin - and that weighs less than half a Bongo...)
I then did the whole job from the outside reaching in from the arch. The original drop link nuts take a 17mm socket, but it'll have to be a slightly deeper one than usual - or one with a larger central hole to allow the protruding ball joint thread to poke through - so's the socket itself gets a good grip. Set your ratchet at an angle that'll allow you to hold it steady while you give it a darn good thump with a rubber mallet. A few good thumps should 'crack' the nut/drop link 'seal'. Simply pulling or prising the ratchet round won't do it - you need a hefty percussive 'thump' to overcome the inertia and crack the seal.
After having 'cracked' it, you'll find that you'll then have to prevent the whole ball joint from rotating as you try and undo the nut further. On the other side of the suspension /anti-roll bar fixing hole - ie: the drop link rubber boot side - you'll need to slip an open-ended spanner or adjustable wrench in there until you locate it on a 'flat' to prevent it from turning. Push the old rubber boot away towards the drop link to allow you to get the spanner in there.
Take care when finally releasing the drop link from its fixing hole - if the anti-roll bar is still under torsion, it could spring down or up!
Ditto for the bottom joint.
Enjoy the clunk-free ride...
Re: Drop links questions
Thanks for that walk-through, just what I need. I didn't get around to doing today - other stuff intervened - and I probably won't get a chance tomorrow either.
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Trouble at t'Mill
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Re: Drop links questions
You're welcome.
Just make sure the bludy thing is completely supported...
When you undo your first drop link end, before you fully remove the nut, tap the end of the nut to push the threaded section through the fixing hole to release it - the nut will stop it from popping fully through. This way you should be able to see if the drop link is still under any tension or compression from the anti-roll bar - or, ideally, not under any strain at all! By slightly jacking up either the ball-joint or main car jacks, you should then be able to remove any strain from the link prior to removal.
Don't forget this is the way I chose to do the job; others have done so by going under the car. I tried that to begin with, but simply couldn't get clear access to the drop link/anti-roll-bar nut to allow me a rubber-hammer-blow to slacken it. With the wheel removed, access was pretty good straight through the wheel arch.
Just make sure the bludy thing is completely supported...
When you undo your first drop link end, before you fully remove the nut, tap the end of the nut to push the threaded section through the fixing hole to release it - the nut will stop it from popping fully through. This way you should be able to see if the drop link is still under any tension or compression from the anti-roll bar - or, ideally, not under any strain at all! By slightly jacking up either the ball-joint or main car jacks, you should then be able to remove any strain from the link prior to removal.
Don't forget this is the way I chose to do the job; others have done so by going under the car. I tried that to begin with, but simply couldn't get clear access to the drop link/anti-roll-bar nut to allow me a rubber-hammer-blow to slacken it. With the wheel removed, access was pretty good straight through the wheel arch.