Not a good idea to put the axle stands under the drive shafts, you want to have the weight of the car on the suspension, so don't use them on the jacking points either, I can't advise exactly as I did mine on ramps, & can't presently go & look underneath, choose wisely & carefully & make sure it's chocked , in P & handbrake on, You will probably have to use a lot of force to undo the nuts, so make sure it is supported securely.ronhud wrote:I've now got the front ARB bushes and brackets from the shop. I am about to go under the Freda for the first time! I've bought a pair of axle stands from Halfords and I've had a quick look under the Freda to see where to site them. I would really appreciate some advice on this - it may seem a naive question but better safe than sorry. I can see a drive shaft probably about 2ft approx long between what I take to be the CV joints. Should both axle stands be positioned under this? When I unbolt the ARB brackets is anything under tension that I should watch out for?
I guess this is one of the simpler jobs underneath and a good one to start with.
Ron
Clonkin' down below.
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missfixit70
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You can't polish a turd - but you can roll it in glitter.
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John the sparky
when you take the wheel off..... I always slide it under the sill as well,
if it fell off a stand it may damage a wheel or even the sill..... but better that than you
but you want to support it at the inside of the suspension, or the chassis, I think there are two chassis rails running down, and the wishbone mounts to them, I'd support it there somewhere, so the suspension is unloaded
John
if it fell off a stand it may damage a wheel or even the sill..... but better that than you
but you want to support it at the inside of the suspension, or the chassis, I think there are two chassis rails running down, and the wishbone mounts to them, I'd support it there somewhere, so the suspension is unloaded
John
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missfixit70
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Would recommend following Mikes advice rather than unload the suspension, That's my opinion anywaymikeonb4c wrote: It might be worth checking that the relevant bolts are going to undo (i.e. are not seized) and/or WD40ing them etc. before assuming the job will be simple. It is simple provided the bolts comply! Also, when doing the job (can someone confirm I've got this right) make sure before you tighten the droplinks/bush brackets up that the vehicle is levelled (side to side really, fore and aft not so important) and that a normal running load/compression is on the suspension. Otherwise you will leave the various rubber bushes in a torqued condition when the vehicle is in its normal running attitude and this will cause premature failure. In practice this mean axle stands are fine but doing things one at a time using the vehicle jack is not.
Mike
You can't polish a turd - but you can roll it in glitter.
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ronhud
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oglivy0
DROPLINKS
Why buy droplinks if they are ok.If you are not sure how to check them,disconnect them and go for a run,if the noise is gone the jobs half done. 
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oglivy0
LINKS
Having the vehicle level and loaded usually only applies to bushes etc. not ball joints.missfixit70 wrote:Would recommend following Mikes advice rather than unload the suspension, That's my opinion anywaymikeonb4c wrote: It might be worth checking that the relevant bolts are going to undo (i.e. are not seized) and/or WD40ing them etc. before assuming the job will be simple. It is simple provided the bolts comply! Also, when doing the job (can someone confirm I've got this right) make sure before you tighten the droplinks/bush brackets up that the vehicle is levelled (side to side really, fore and aft not so important) and that a normal running load/compression is on the suspension. Otherwise you will leave the various rubber bushes in a torqued condition when the vehicle is in its normal running attitude and this will cause premature failure. In practice this mean axle stands are fine but doing things one at a time using the vehicle jack is not.
Mike
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mikeonb4c
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Re: LINKS
Just to confirm, the rear droplinks feature bushes (steel sleeve centre, bonded to rubber bush, bonded to metal dumbell end of droplink (one each end). No idea about front ones - never done 'emoglivy0 wrote:Having the vehicle level and loaded usually only applies to bushes etc. not ball joints.missfixit70 wrote:Would recommend following Mikes advice rather than unload the suspension, That's my opinion anywaymikeonb4c wrote: It might be worth checking that the relevant bolts are going to undo (i.e. are not seized) and/or WD40ing them etc. before assuming the job will be simple. It is simple provided the bolts comply! Also, when doing the job (can someone confirm I've got this right) make sure before you tighten the droplinks/bush brackets up that the vehicle is levelled (side to side really, fore and aft not so important) and that a normal running load/compression is on the suspension. Otherwise you will leave the various rubber bushes in a torqued condition when the vehicle is in its normal running attitude and this will cause premature failure. In practice this mean axle stands are fine but doing things one at a time using the vehicle jack is not.
Mike
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Veg_Ian
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oglivy0
ball joint
I mean go around the block a few times that should be sufficient.You probably wouldn't know they were missing.Veg_Ian wrote:Driving with a disconnected ARB? That should be fun.Why buy droplinks if they are ok.If you are not sure how to check them,disconnect them and go for a run,if the noise is gone the jobs half done.