First real problem with the Bongo.
Drove the bongo seven miles parked up and was leaving when I heard a hissing noise.
First thought was I hoped it was a puncture!
Had a look under the passenger seat and noticed a light green blob of water just where the blled pipe is clamped to the engine.
There had been no rise in temperature past the normal and the heaters were working OK
Water level had gone below the visible part of the expansion tank.
Bongo will now be off road till I can repair on Saturday
Now I need to replace the bleed pipe though actually I will shorten the pipe and refix. I presume I will have to bleed the system and will try the see saw method in the revised members fact sheet. (Good timing on the revision)
Question is (and it maybe a stupid question) whilst I am shortening the bleed pipe will I be losing much coolant (engine obviously off)
and is the see saw method reallly easy?
Cheers
Steve
Replacing bleed pipe.
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- Supreme Being
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You shouldn't lose much/any coolant when you remove the bleed pipe but after slackening off the clip make sure that you pull straight, not side to side as you may damage/shear the metal pipe.
Make sure the pipe is routed so it does not sit on top of the alternator (a common problem with the unitiated).
See saw method is dead easy.
good luck
H
Make sure the pipe is routed so it does not sit on top of the alternator (a common problem with the unitiated).
See saw method is dead easy.
good luck
H
- dandywarhol
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I would keep the expansion cap on (engine cold) and quickly remove the pipe, have somebody do the small Dutch Boy trick and keep their finger over the stub, cut the pipe and refit. Keeping the cap on causes a vacuum and coolant shouldn't leak out.
The real air lock problems lie in the heater matrices when the coolant level gets right down IMO
The real air lock problems lie in the heater matrices when the coolant level gets right down IMO
Whale oil beef hooked
Renault Lunar Telstar
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Yamaha TD1C 250, Merc SLK200, KTM Duke 690
- dandywarhol
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................small Dutch bhoys..........mikeonb4c wrote:Tell you what flippa - if the police come by and catch you both doing that, you're likely to get carted down the nick (unless they join in of course). Hoses in hand, bungs being stuffed in pipes, fluid on the floor, jumpers for goalposts - whats the world coming toflippa wrote:if you don't have a dutch boy handy![]()
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....why not just swap ends....get the hose ready to remove at the head end.....raise hose remove bung .....keep hose raised.....remove at head.....replace hose bung end onto head....do your cutting....and reverse
...thats just the way i would have a go

Whale oil beef hooked
Renault Lunar Telstar
Yamaha TD1C 250, Merc SLK200, KTM Duke 690
Renault Lunar Telstar
Yamaha TD1C 250, Merc SLK200, KTM Duke 690
bleed pipe
Thanks for all the replies
I will be havng a go at the job this morning and will post here the result.
Chhers
Steve
I will be havng a go at the job this morning and will post here the result.
Chhers
Steve
Replaced pipe.
Have done the job this morning and all seems well.
The bleed hose which was on appears to be LPG house. Or at least that is how it is marked. The hose had cracked just before the point where it joins onto the engine. Signs of perishing also where bulged at the bung end so cut the hose down twice.
After the see saw method heaters still working though the front heater seemed slower to warm up than the rear. Went for a ten minute ride , went up to normal temp and never beyond. After cooling down coolant level hardly appears to have moved and did not need topping up.
Will keep an eye on levels before any runs for next few weeks just to be safe.
Is there any easy way of knowing when you have bled the system OK?
Thanks for all the advice
Steve
The bleed hose which was on appears to be LPG house. Or at least that is how it is marked. The hose had cracked just before the point where it joins onto the engine. Signs of perishing also where bulged at the bung end so cut the hose down twice.
After the see saw method heaters still working though the front heater seemed slower to warm up than the rear. Went for a ten minute ride , went up to normal temp and never beyond. After cooling down coolant level hardly appears to have moved and did not need topping up.
Will keep an eye on levels before any runs for next few weeks just to be safe.
Is there any easy way of knowing when you have bled the system OK?
Thanks for all the advice
Steve