Replace rear festoon fluorescent with leds
Moderators: Doone, westonwarrior
Replace rear festoon fluorescent with leds
Having now succeeded in getting the cover of my interior 'festoon' light in the back I'm wondering if I can fit leds in place of the fluorescent. There's no way one could read with the small fluorescent. I've combed ebay and all the leds seem to be between 31mm and 44mm long with pointed contacts at the end. Has anyone fitted leds in place of the fluorescent - does it mean replacing the the complete fitting? I might consider a led downlighter fitted above the reversed middle bench - say on the trim that slopes from the top of the window towards the roof. Any suggestions as to how to get to the wiring for this.
Ron
Ron
Ron
It really does sound as if your flourescent tube is not performing as it should. I have no problem at all reading in the mid seat with it's light, but before I sorted out the connection it was a fairly faint glow. Is there anyone close to you whose Bongo you can compare it with? It's well worth checking out your connections before investing in LED's - if the connections are poor then your LED's will just perform poorly as well.
Rhod
It really does sound as if your flourescent tube is not performing as it should. I have no problem at all reading in the mid seat with it's light, but before I sorted out the connection it was a fairly faint glow. Is there anyone close to you whose Bongo you can compare it with? It's well worth checking out your connections before investing in LED's - if the connections are poor then your LED's will just perform poorly as well.
Rhod
I think we are at cross purposes here!
I think ronhud is talking about the small light fitting by the tailgate nearside. He is correct in describing it as a festoon lamp. LED replacements are available for those.
Rhod is clearly on about the central fluuuuorescent.
Despite the large variation in size, they both probably consume about the same current.
Virtually all LEDS provide a very "cold" blueish white light. I have experimented with various types and none of them have provided a really satisfactory illumination compared with "conventional" bulbs.
The search continues!
I think ronhud is talking about the small light fitting by the tailgate nearside. He is correct in describing it as a festoon lamp. LED replacements are available for those.
Rhod is clearly on about the central fluuuuorescent.
Despite the large variation in size, they both probably consume about the same current.
Virtually all LEDS provide a very "cold" blueish white light. I have experimented with various types and none of them have provided a really satisfactory illumination compared with "conventional" bulbs.
The search continues!
Festoon and fluorescent are two completely different sorts of light and the "bulbs" are completely different and non-interchangeable.
To replace a fluorescent fitting with an LED set up will require complete removal of the electronic control gear and hard wiring of the LED fitting to the switch.
Ohh and mine is plenty bright enough to read by as well.
To replace a fluorescent fitting with an LED set up will require complete removal of the electronic control gear and hard wiring of the LED fitting to the switch.
Ohh and mine is plenty bright enough to read by as well.
Well... I loosened the fitting and checked connections, all seemed ok. Then I decided to check the voltage across the tube pins where the tube fitted into the clips. As soon as i touched the first probe to the pin the fluorescent burst into full strength. I wonder if some sort of charge needed to be released - dont know enough about fluorescents to decide but very odd. So now I'll see how long it stays ok!
Ron
Ron
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Am I going mad (don't answer that
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I've discussed this in a post with ronhud but can't see my entry. Have we started a new thread on his lighting problems.
Ronhud - assuming we re talkng about the main fluorescent tube interior light - this is exactly what I found. Mysterious manipulating of the tube got it working a LOT better, but getting it to stay working like that over time was trickier. I take the cover off from time to time and try and massage it back to life

I've discussed this in a post with ronhud but can't see my entry. Have we started a new thread on his lighting problems.
Ronhud - assuming we re talkng about the main fluorescent tube interior light - this is exactly what I found. Mysterious manipulating of the tube got it working a LOT better, but getting it to stay working like that over time was trickier. I take the cover off from time to time and try and massage it back to life

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I may have dreamt this, but i seem to recall a couple of years or so ago that somebodies striplight was performing poorly,and after replacing the tube,(which cured the problem)he discovered there was a rattle in the old tube.... could it be that flourescents can be prone to "part" failure?
Perhaps in some cases they can be down on performance,before they actually give up the ghost for good?
Just a thought...
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Fluuuuuuuuuorescent lamps depend upon a high enough voltage between two electrodes to cause the gas inside to "strike" and provide illumination.
Most tubes also have a coating on the inside of the glass to make them brighter.
Most tubes also have a little heater filament at each end to aid the striking process.
The voltage required to cause the lamp to strike is far higher than the 12V available in a vehicle.
The fitting contains some sophisticated electronics that chops the 12V DC into AC and then transforms it to a much higher voltage. It does this at a much higher frequency than the 50Hz mains - for technical reasons which allow much smaller components to be used.
The reason for them suddenly bursting into life when you firkle with them (massage?) is that your hand (or whatever) introduces capacitance.
Also, the slightest jiggling (NOT jig-a-jig!) can make oxidised, and thus poor contacts, better.
Hence the mystery.
Most tubes also have a coating on the inside of the glass to make them brighter.
Most tubes also have a little heater filament at each end to aid the striking process.
The voltage required to cause the lamp to strike is far higher than the 12V available in a vehicle.
The fitting contains some sophisticated electronics that chops the 12V DC into AC and then transforms it to a much higher voltage. It does this at a much higher frequency than the 50Hz mains - for technical reasons which allow much smaller components to be used.
The reason for them suddenly bursting into life when you firkle with them (massage?) is that your hand (or whatever) introduces capacitance.
Also, the slightest jiggling (NOT jig-a-jig!) can make oxidised, and thus poor contacts, better.
Hence the mystery.
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