front drop links

rob and karen · Post by **rob and karen** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 7:56 pm

hi all
got some new drop links today , weather permitting will change them tommorrow , but before i start does anyone know if i need a ball joint splitter to seperate them or do they come apart without ??

thanks rob

samuel · Post by **samuel** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 8:00 pm

You'll need a ball joint splitter handy to be on the safe side.

brorabongo · Post by **brorabongo** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 8:02 pm

Hi Rob

I'm still waiting to do mine. As far as I know, it's just a case of removing old, possibly seized nuts

So give them a spray tonight, that might help.

All the best, and let us know how you get on.

Cheers.

Post by **westonwarrior** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 8:42 pm

I changed mine and didn't need a ball joint splitter

dandywarhol · Post by **dandywarhol** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 11:48 pm

They aren't fitted onto a taper so a splitter isn't required. The originals have a hex in the centre to fit an allen key to hold the rod from turning. The cheapo aftermarket ones don't have that so best to use coppaslip on the threads of the cheapos cos they'll need replaced sooner anyway..............

rob and karen · Post by **rob and karen** » Tue Oct 23, 2007 8:31 am

thanks for the replies guys ,
will let you know how it goes as doing them today hopefully

rob

smartmonkey · Post by **smartmonkey** » Tue Oct 23, 2007 12:53 pm

I took one look at the nuts and just cut them off. Total time for both sides was about 20 minutes without having to faff on undoing them.

rob and karen · Post by **rob and karen** » Tue Oct 23, 2007 1:58 pm

Well got them both done

, both bottom nuts undone no problems , but the top nuts no chance so out came the grinder and cut them off

very easy to do if you have a grinder

, tools needed are a 17mm spanner or socket and wrench , a hammer and a grinder job done

thanks rob

byejason · Post by **byejason** » Tue Oct 23, 2007 5:26 pm

If they appear to be tight, use a six sided socket and a big bar instead of a ratchett. A 6 sider is much less likely to round off the nut (or break). There's not a lot you can't shift with the right socket and a big bar. I rounded off one of mine leaning on it with a standard socked and a big bar. Ended up chiselling it off. 10 clouts with a big hammer and it popped, but if i had started with the six sider I would probably have been alright. Also, heating the nut is another good method. You can do it with a standard (paint stripping) hot air if you haven't got a torch. Just be careful not to heat up your shock.

Working with the bongo on blocks, the bottom nuts on the front were a bit awkward to get at. Would be much easier over a pit if you know someone with one.