Removing exhaust manifold

Auntie-Freda · Post by **Auntie-Freda** » Thu Sep 13, 2007 8:00 pm

Hi, last year the Bongo suffered the snapped no 1 exhaust stud problem. The mobile mechanic I used at the time fixed it and was good for while but after a trip to France the characteristic squealing is back big time. We cannot call on the services of the mechanic so I thought I would save a few quid and do it myself.

The stud appears to be intact so I am guessing that the gasket has failed due to manifold distortion or the gasket failing some way. (not helped by the old gasket being reused when the stud was fixed last year).

I have the workshop manual and if that is to believed you have to remove the whole exhaust system - is that right. If not can someone give me a potted guide on how to get the manifold off?

Thanks in anticipation

A-F

Captainsideways · Post by **Captainsideways** » Thu Sep 13, 2007 8:34 pm

From memory its a very simple task, all the bolts are accessable, & you can pull the manifold off & leave the exhaust attached just pull the bracket off from down by the gearbox mounting, makes it nice & flexible.

Think you can leave the turbo intact too, though you might need to loosen the oil feed & drain? its certainly enough to pull the head off so should be no probs to change a gasket.

Hope that helps

mikeonb4c · Post by **mikeonb4c** » Thu Sep 13, 2007 10:10 pm

Is there a possibility the manifold has distorted after an overheating episode and is putting a strain on the (tightened bolts), causing them to go again and thus will need grinding flat in order to prevent further replacement bolts from going? I thought I'd read that some time back on BF - anyone able to confirm this?

Veg_Ian · Post by **Veg_Ian** » Fri Sep 14, 2007 7:12 am

Exhaust manifolds are prone to warping due to the torture they are subjected to. If not clamped down tight (ie. a period of driving with a sheared bolt) then that's when it can warp. Take it off and hold a straight edge (steel rule for example) across the face at various angles and check for true. If not then you need someone to machine it flat. However, if not too bad I know of someone who has taken imperfections out by rubbing it on a chalked flat flagstone and rough file and got an acceptable result

Auntie-Freda · Post by **Auntie-Freda** » Sat Sep 15, 2007 10:00 am

Hi all

After checking the no 1 stud I found that the reason the squealing is back is because the stud has pulled out of the engine block. I compared the length the stud that was fitted with a new stud sent by AVA and the one that pulled out is shorter by about 5mm. It looks like the thread in the block has failed as there remnants around the thread of the stud I removed.

Any suggestions or is back to the garage?

haydn callow · Post by **haydn callow** » Sat Sep 15, 2007 10:27 am

Sounds like it needs redrilling oversize, helicoiling and a new "longer" bit of stud fitting. Try Ian , he's supposed to be a STUD !!