MOT Issues: How effective is your Bongo handbrake

Technical questions and answers about the Mazda Bongo

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mikeonb4c
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MOT Issues: How effective is your Bongo handbrake

Post by mikeonb4c » Mon Jul 09, 2007 11:49 pm

My MOT is a way off and I don't know how they view handbrakes tests these days, but I'd like to be ahead of the game. Mangos handbrake is not stunning, and yet I vaguely recall that the handbrake on other Bongos I tested was similar. If you wish to stay in D on the autobox at traffic lights, you have to give the handbrake a decent haul t oget it to hold the Bongo firmly. Haven't really tried the hill start option cos with the autobox the situation doesn't arise really - suppose I should check it.

How do other owners find their handbrake? Do MOT testers accept that some vehicle designs have weaker handbrakes than others (assuming all Bongos are like this).

My handbrake also comes up quite a few clicks. In the old days, 6 clicks was max allowed. Is this still true. Anyone adjusted the handbrake on a Bongo and is it easy?

Grateful for any thoughts from the experts.

thanks chums

Mike 8)

PS - interestingly, she passed fine with the handbrake like that so not as though it has got worse or anything.
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Post by kawasaki kid » Tue Jul 10, 2007 12:05 am

I stand to be corrected ,but as long as the handbrake can hold the van it`s ok and that brake on both drums apply the same pressure on the rolling road test.
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Post by dp bradford » Tue Jul 10, 2007 8:21 am

I have to say I've thought the same, Mike - my handbrake isn't all that stunning. Am I right in thinking the handbrake is completely separate from the other brakes? :?
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ChrisEm

Post by ChrisEm » Tue Jul 10, 2007 8:27 am

Mine passed the mot with flying colours and seems to hold no problem. The hanbrake is not linked to the other braking circuit and the rear discs also have a drum type assembly purely for the handbrake. It might be that the shoes for the handbrake have expired.
Linusface

Post by Linusface » Tue Jul 10, 2007 9:46 am

My Freda handbrake is very good, and the 'clicks' were adjusted during the last service at no extra cost, so I'm guessing it's not a complicated task.

My old Volvo had the same set up & a weak handbrake. I was advised to occasionally apply the handbrake while moving slowly (both forward & reverse). The theory being that handbrakes are generally only used when stationary so a separate handbrake system will build up dirt, rust, moisture and grime between the drum & the shoe because it's never used 'in anger'. Using the handbrake to slow the vehicle will clean up the surfaces, making them much more efficient.

:!: A few handbrake turns later, the Volvo was cured & I couldn't get the smile off my face :D

:shock: REMEMBER : APPLY HANDBRAKE ONLY WHILE MOVING SLOWLY :shock:

:shock: DO NOT USE THE HANDBRAKE WHILE MOVING AT SPEED - YOU MAY LOOSE CONTROL OF YOUR VEHICLE :shock:
smartmonkey

Post by smartmonkey » Tue Jul 10, 2007 1:44 pm

The handbrake is not meant to hold the vehicle whilst it is in D. If you are stopping for a bit it is much better all-round to put it in N.

Auto's often have bother with their handbrakes because they dont get used as often as manuals. I would adjust it to about 4 clicks and lube whatever you can get to underneath. It is good advice to occasionally use it whilst driving to clear the contact surfaces. The MOT requires the handbrake to meet a minimum standard on the rollers and to be balanced. They usually fail because of sticky cables and rusty shoes. You probably think yours is worse than it is because the engine is assisting gravity in a way that manuals don't. A good way to test it is to drive backwards slowly and jamb on the handbrake - it should stop quite smartly and jack up the rear on both sides.
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Post by chris-m » Tue Jul 10, 2007 8:29 pm

Hi Mike this is how I adjusted my van’s handbrake, it’s a simple procedure but probably not fun with a bad back! :(
Chock the front wheels securely, jack up the rear of the van and put on axle stands. Remove both rear wheels, put van in N, make sure the handbrake is off. Remove the rubber bung on the rear drum. Turn the drum until the hole where the bung was coincides with a toothed wheel inside the drum, easy to spot if you have a torch. Using a large flat blade screw driver turn the toothed wheel around 1 turn at a time until you find the drum is locked, it goes around in a clicking motion. If it doesn’t lock after turning for a number of clicks then you are turning the toothed wheel the wrong way. Once the drum is locked then back the toothed wheel off 3 turns or so, and check that the drum rotates totally freely. Repeat on the other side. My handbrake works just fine now, and the van just passed it’s MOT. PM me if you need more info.
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Bertie Bus

Post by Bertie Bus » Tue Jul 10, 2007 9:01 pm

Hi Mike,

When we joined the club about 3 years ago, Bertie's hand brake was an issue for us. We felt that it was always up too high. A year later when it came to MOT time, we were told the handbrake shoes were worn and that we needed new ones. :shock:

With in two weeks he had to go back as the hand brake had risen again. The garage said that the shoes had worn again, and was I driving around with the hand brake on??? :evil:

Just because I'm a woman doesn't mean I don't know what driving around with the hand brake on would feel like. Plus hubs is a memeber if the Institutue of the Motor Indsutry! 8)

What we decided to do was try and use the handbrake in certain situations, ie if it was just parked on the drive, leave it in park. If it was parked on a hill use the handbrake. Those sorts of things. When we finally found a garage that understood bongo's the chap said, there is a finite adjustment needed when putting on the new shoes, and since then we have not had any issues.

But I do like chris-m's notes. :wink:
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Post by bigdaddycain » Tue Jul 10, 2007 9:07 pm

Have you ever drove half a mile or so with the handbrake still "half on"?

I did this quite a few times in the early months of bongo ownership :oops:

I dunno why now, but in retrospect, i used to do it more when i used to select N at traffic lights, if the light changed to green and i wasn't prepared to go,i think i used to rush the handbrake off,before selecting D.

If you rush it off,it could catch halfway down, i'm sure that did the pads/shoes a world of good! :roll:

My handbrake is poor by my standards, but the mot tester said it was "ok"

I find the handbrake is useful for putting up the roof, and little else.
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Post by mikeonb4c » Tue Jul 10, 2007 9:24 pm

The posted replies on this thread are as encouraging as the ones on the flashing roof light thread are discouraging! Thank you very much everybody.

chris-m - that advice is invaluable. It dredges up old memories of adjusting brake drums on Morris Minors etc - I'd forgotten all about it until then. Without you jogging me, I'd have started by adjusting the handbrake cable, which would have been wrong! I'll put the job on my (long) list. if not now, then before te MOT comes up, although I suspect its good enough for that. It works OK but just needs the lever hauling up a way.

In reality, the handbrake on a Bongo does seem almost surplus to requirements!

Mike 8)
Bongoflyer

Post by Bongoflyer » Tue Jul 10, 2007 10:35 pm

Hi Mike,
How do other owners find their handbrake? Do MOT testers accept that some vehicle designs have weaker handbrakes than others (assuming all Bongos are like this).
No, I'm afraid we dont and they're not, Bongo handbrakes in good condition and properly adjusted are very good. We're looking for 16% of the vehicle brake weight for the handbrake and that it is reasonably balanced on the rolling road, not easy for you to check unless you have access to a rr.
My handbrake also comes up quite a few clicks. In the old days, 6 clicks was max allowed. Is this still true. Anyone adjusted the handbrake on a Bongo and is it easy?
Nope, clicks dont come into it now only that it should not hit the stop, if it does it fails.

Take advice from Chris-m for adjusting but also slacken the hand brake cable a bit to check for cable seizure and to make sure you dont have weight on the brakes from the cable, if you do you will get a false adjustment. This is a common mistake and people often tell me after I've failed it on low handbrake effficiency "I've just done the brakes".

Bongos have a combined disc/drum on the rear, disc for the footbrake and the drum for the handbrake

Not a good idea to adjust without checking the linings if you dont know their history as you may just be adjusting the metal up to the drum therfore doing more damage and its so easy peasy to get them off to check and a good idea to clean them out anyway.

DONT breath the dust.

Pop over and I'll put it on the rr.
moonshine

Post by moonshine » Tue Jul 10, 2007 10:52 pm

Not sure how the MOT tester checked my handbrake for balance, as obviously you can't put a 4WD on the rolling road. It would simply climb off! I guess he must have just pulled it on and saw that it pulled up straight. He passed it anyway.
Bongoflyer

Post by Bongoflyer » Tue Jul 10, 2007 11:16 pm

Not sure how the MOT tester checked my handbrake for balance, as obviously you can't put a 4WD on the rolling road. It would simply climb off! I guess he must have just pulled it on and saw that it pulled up straight. He passed it anyway.
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Post by bigdaddycain » Wed Jul 11, 2007 12:05 pm

Ooer, my 4wd was on the rolling road!... :shock:
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smartmonkey

Post by smartmonkey » Tue Jul 17, 2007 12:15 pm

bigdaddycain wrote:Ooer, my 4wd was on the rolling road!... :shock:
The 4WD should never go on the brakes rollers. The testers are meant to use a decelerometer to check function on a test drive.
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