Stu, I've sent you a private message about this.
E.B.

Tomorrow maybe 26th in Scotland, but it's 27th here in England!

Before you buy a new battery, make sure your alternator output is up to spec; you could have a partial alternator failure (one of the three diode packs has failed). With the engine running (set about 2000 rpm) output should be around 14 volts.
This situation could persist for months; all seems to be ...

I had both the old and "previously-cherished" alternators repaired. I've fitted the original and all is now sweetness and light (especially light, as the charge light comes on when it should!). The radio glitch remains a mystery.
If you're near Portsmouth, you need look no further than ...

Well, the "clicking" is not, it would appear, the diodes being destroyed. I had both alternators repaired (see my thread "alternator failure-no warning light" or somesuch) and it still happens. A tiresome mystery, I think, but after several runs on the new alternator, the clicking still occurs but ...

The 100 amp fuse is intact.
The starter motor operates normally and it disengages after start-up. If it continued to run after start-up I suspect I would notice.
I've replaced the starter motor contacts myself (twice), the last time was several years ago. The problem wasn't staying on, but failing ...

I'm now more or less convinced that the radio clicks are the sound of a diode pack being destroyed. I think there's an intermittent short somewhere on the van. When it's shorting, it knocks the voltage down which causes the radio to drop off. It all happens very rapidly (the radio is only off for a ...

Well, it seemed that way, but after maybe thirty minutes running the replacement alternator packed up; see my new post on "radio clicking".

I'm no longer focussing on the radio; I believe the problem there is an indicator of another problem. This morning I checked the charging voltage again (see my thread "alternator failure-no warning light) and it was 11.7, engine idling, low electrical load, 12.7 volts at 2000 rpm. After replacing ...

Bongolow: Yes, both are 90 amp units.
Jaylee: Indeed it does. You are about to suggest that it might be a bad contact, I surmise. Good thought, I'll check it.

Sorry, it's a 1996 diesel (I've had it for eight years) and I fitted the radio (this is the second one I've fitted and it's been in the van for about three years). It has no split charging system. I'm a fairly competent electrician; I restore motorcycles, designing my own 12 volt conversions and ...

You need to remove the bolt from the tension slide AND the nut which fastens the alternator to adjuster. The adjuster will come out, too.
With the (bottom) pivot bolt removed, the whole thing should be easy to work loose-you should be able to push (or shove!) it towards the block; this will slacken ...

Having just replaced my alternator, I noticed a kind of clicking on the radio, as if the supply were being very briefly interupted, repeatedly, at irregular intervals. It happens in sequences of about 12 (10-14) clicks, at irregular intervals averaging about one per second or so. It'll go 5 or 20 ...

Many thanks for the "heads up", Simon. I bought the alternator for £20, collected it at 20:00 last night and fitted it this morning.
Caramba! All is well; truly, the Cosmic Supply Company is an efficient and economical institution (and you are a diamond geezer!).
The warning light filament was ...

It looks as though the alternator on my 1996 SGL5 has failed. All the electrical services began to fail/dim whilst driving after a very reluctant (low cranking rpm) restart. The charge failure warning light did not illuminate but, being a negligent sort of fellow, I couldn't tell you whether it lit ...