Pop top alteration
Moderator: Ian
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- Junior Bongonaut
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2016 2:18 pm
- Location: North Tyneside
Pop top alteration
Hi, we have recently bought a bongo and would like to convert the pop top floor into a rear opening one instead of a central hatch. Does anyone know how best to achieve this or know of somewhere I can get it done in the Newcastle area?
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- Tribal Elder
- Posts: 506
- Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2008 9:21 pm
- Location: Lincoln
Re: Pop top alteration
Hi,
You don't say what type of roof is fitted. Is it factory fitted one by Mazda or is it an after market one fitted by a converter?
The reason I ask is that you may find that there are members that have done similar them selves & may give advise for DIY solution to this modification. Pics might help members give more specific advise.
Cheers
You don't say what type of roof is fitted. Is it factory fitted one by Mazda or is it an after market one fitted by a converter?
The reason I ask is that you may find that there are members that have done similar them selves & may give advise for DIY solution to this modification. Pics might help members give more specific advise.
Cheers
Windy-Watson
2001 V6 Tin Top
2001 V6 Tin Top
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- Junior Bongonaut
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2016 2:18 pm
- Location: North Tyneside
Re: Pop top alteration
Hi windywatson, The pop top is an original Mazda fitted one.
Re: Pop top alteration
If you move the hatch further back I don't see how you will be able to open it or get through it.
There is very little height at the back, none at the very back.
There is very little height at the back, none at the very back.
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- Junior Bongonaut
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2016 2:18 pm
- Location: North Tyneside
Re: Pop top alteration
Hi Bob, this is the sort of thing I am http://clearcutconversions.co.uk/shop/r ... terations/
It would mean that I could go to bed a bit later than my son having a 7 or 8pm bed time at 34 is a bit restrictive plus if I need the toilet I won't have to wake him up to get out.
It would mean that I could go to bed a bit later than my son having a 7 or 8pm bed time at 34 is a bit restrictive plus if I need the toilet I won't have to wake him up to get out.
Last edited by Bongo Voyage on Sat Apr 02, 2016 9:23 am, edited 1 time in total.
- Simon Jones
- Supreme Being
- Posts: 9341
- Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2005 3:34 pm
- Location: Salisbury (ish), Wiltshire
Re: Pop top alteration
I think I've seen a post where someone has switched the panel around so the hatch is in the rear section and then the hatch folds over towards the front of the van. Of course I may have imagined it . Other option is the 'cat flap' modification where the panel itself is cut in half.
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- Junior Bongonaut
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2016 2:18 pm
- Location: North Tyneside
Re: Pop top alteration
I like the clearcut conversion and there price is good but Devon is a bit far to go to get it done.
- Simon Jones
- Supreme Being
- Posts: 9341
- Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2005 3:34 pm
- Location: Salisbury (ish), Wiltshire
Re: Pop top alteration
It doesn't look too tricky to fit as the bulk of the work is removing the old one. Give Richard at Clearcut a call and see if he can send you the parts so you can do it yourself. Alternatively, have a few days away in north Devon, but be aware he doesn't tend to open at weekends.
Re: Pop top alteration
Not seen that before, does look neat.
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- Junior Bongonaut
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2016 2:18 pm
- Location: North Tyneside
Re: Pop top alteration
"Give Richard at Clearcut a call and see if he can send you the parts so you can do it yourself."
I think that could be the best option. I was hoping to find a fact sheet on here for doing a diy job.
It does look cool plus it makes the pop top a lot more practical (when you have 2 young kids)
I think that could be the best option. I was hoping to find a fact sheet on here for doing a diy job.
It does look cool plus it makes the pop top a lot more practical (when you have 2 young kids)
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- Tribal Elder
- Posts: 506
- Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2008 9:21 pm
- Location: Lincoln
Re: Pop top alteration
Viewing the photos it seems to me that all that has been done is the exsisting floor removed & panels cut that will drop into place leavin the rear as an opener. This dosen't look to be beyond a competant DIY'er. If you dont have the skills yourself, you could possibly show the example to a local joiner & get one made quite cheaply.
Windy-Watson
2001 V6 Tin Top
2001 V6 Tin Top
Re: Pop top alteration
Hi, I am in Gateshead, there is a company in Washington called UK pop tops who would be able to do the work if you showed them what you want. Alternatively on Facebook there is Bongo owners north east, which I run, and on there is a couple of convertors which would probably be cheaper. send me a request to join and i'll put you in touch.
I have 2 floor sections which will replace the inner lifting roof and make it easier for the kids if you wanted a look and a measure up. I have used just the front section and left the inner roof in place which also works depending on size of kids. Mine are 9&7
Regards
Stu
I have 2 floor sections which will replace the inner lifting roof and make it easier for the kids if you wanted a look and a measure up. I have used just the front section and left the inner roof in place which also works depending on size of kids. Mine are 9&7
Regards
Stu
Do what you like.Like what you do.
- Purple Pixie
- Bongolier
- Posts: 215
- Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2012 1:51 pm
Re: Pop top alteration [update 07/2016]
Ok, I have just spent this morning [22/07/2016] modifying a fellow Bongo Fury members roof floor panel and catflap
This consisted of
1) Refitting the hinges on to the other edge of the roof floor panel (basically drilling 2 holes and fiddling with two nuts in place of the captive nuts on the existing end fitting)
2) The hydraulic arms are refitted on the roof panel by drilling 7mm holes and tapping them 8mm (this can be done through an access hole drilled 8mm so the tap can fit into the 7mm hole.
Now this bit was something I had not done before:....................
3) easy bit: drill out the rivets holding the catflap on to the roof panel put pot rivets back in the holes to be nice and neat, rotate the catflap by 180 degrees and drill holes and pot rivet the hinges down
4) a lot more fiddly: re route the power cable for the fluorescent tube light on the inside of the floor panel
The wire (3 core) needs re-routing to the new hinge line and to the left as viewed looking down the vehicle
This involve extending the existing wire and routing it through the body of the roof floor panel.
I managed to thread a length of twisted welding wire past the communication opening (the round hole) through what felt like a small bit of foam insulation to the (new) lifting edge of the panel. I then tangled the 3 cores of 5amp cable into the welding wire, wrapped a bit of insulating tape around the cable ends and gently pulled them through and out to the left hand edge of the (new) captive end.
I shrink wrapped any soldered junctions
The modified roof floor is best lifted into the roof tilted down and pushed up and forwards as there is then space to rotate it and you can avoid the sharpish corners tearing the roof fabric. Actually standing in the catflap hole helped me but I am 6ft 4in.....make sure you tape the hydraulic legs to the side of the roof!
While someone supports the panel, the hinge pins go in and the hydraulic supports screw down, remember to refit the plastic spacers between the roof mounted hinge brackets and the hinge brackets on the roof panel. The circular washers go on with a bit of help... put a 6?mm socket over the washer and bang the other end of the hinge pin to engage the circular lock washers (they might look a bit knackered once you get the off but they should be ok)
I would prefer drilling these to take p-clips for if the panel is ever removed later. get yourself a 12mm spanner and socket and an extension rod!
I have updated my Flickr album with todays adventures
https://www.flickr.com/photos/johnbulla ... 588048502/
This is the second time I have done this conversion and the first time I have rerouted the power for the roof panel light.... getting a dab hand at it... anyone else fancy a pitstop in Southampton to show me your flaps?
Other options could be a half width catflap or a full length slatted replacement (like a jacobs ladder bed base that you could open and slide to your hearts content) like the photo below but closer spaced/less gaps and webbing threaded top and bottom edge alternating.
Pip Pip!
Dr B
This consisted of
1) Refitting the hinges on to the other edge of the roof floor panel (basically drilling 2 holes and fiddling with two nuts in place of the captive nuts on the existing end fitting)
2) The hydraulic arms are refitted on the roof panel by drilling 7mm holes and tapping them 8mm (this can be done through an access hole drilled 8mm so the tap can fit into the 7mm hole.
Now this bit was something I had not done before:....................
3) easy bit: drill out the rivets holding the catflap on to the roof panel put pot rivets back in the holes to be nice and neat, rotate the catflap by 180 degrees and drill holes and pot rivet the hinges down
4) a lot more fiddly: re route the power cable for the fluorescent tube light on the inside of the floor panel
The wire (3 core) needs re-routing to the new hinge line and to the left as viewed looking down the vehicle
This involve extending the existing wire and routing it through the body of the roof floor panel.
I managed to thread a length of twisted welding wire past the communication opening (the round hole) through what felt like a small bit of foam insulation to the (new) lifting edge of the panel. I then tangled the 3 cores of 5amp cable into the welding wire, wrapped a bit of insulating tape around the cable ends and gently pulled them through and out to the left hand edge of the (new) captive end.
I shrink wrapped any soldered junctions
The modified roof floor is best lifted into the roof tilted down and pushed up and forwards as there is then space to rotate it and you can avoid the sharpish corners tearing the roof fabric. Actually standing in the catflap hole helped me but I am 6ft 4in.....make sure you tape the hydraulic legs to the side of the roof!
While someone supports the panel, the hinge pins go in and the hydraulic supports screw down, remember to refit the plastic spacers between the roof mounted hinge brackets and the hinge brackets on the roof panel. The circular washers go on with a bit of help... put a 6?mm socket over the washer and bang the other end of the hinge pin to engage the circular lock washers (they might look a bit knackered once you get the off but they should be ok)
I would prefer drilling these to take p-clips for if the panel is ever removed later. get yourself a 12mm spanner and socket and an extension rod!
I have updated my Flickr album with todays adventures
https://www.flickr.com/photos/johnbulla ... 588048502/
This is the second time I have done this conversion and the first time I have rerouted the power for the roof panel light.... getting a dab hand at it... anyone else fancy a pitstop in Southampton to show me your flaps?
Other options could be a half width catflap or a full length slatted replacement (like a jacobs ladder bed base that you could open and slide to your hearts content) like the photo below but closer spaced/less gaps and webbing threaded top and bottom edge alternating.
Pip Pip!
Dr B
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1999 Ford Freda - "Purple Pixie"
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1999 Ford Freda - "Purple Pixie"