Bongo Fury

Hi all,

Having just picked up my 2001 Bongo with AFT last week I’ve already stripped out all seating, carpets and trim panels. This was to clean and dye the carpets black which I am in the process of but it’s got me thinking…..

Now is the time to look at anything that I should or could do while the van is a shell, so I’m looking for some advice:

I should add, the end game is a comfortable sleeping camper for myself, my wife and two kids, not wanting a kitchen but simply a seats folded double bed downstairs and then the bed in the roof. Cooking etc… can be done outside.

1) floor - I want to insulate the floor, partly for insulation reasons but also as an underlay making the carpets easier underfoot (and making the carpet raised up more flush with the seat runners - being anal but it’s neater). Was thinking of using DoDo Thermo Liner Pro 10mm - question - is it ok to stick this down over the entire rear floor including covering the metal plate (fuel tank access?) - just straight over all the unevenness of the floor, then carpet on top.
There are also little rubber plugs all over the floor that must be there for a reason (drain plugs?) - i’m thinking those who Lino or ply the floor cover these anyway - so is it ok to cover these too?

2) side panels - using this same material will adding this into the side panels (under each window, over the wheel arches etc…) make a difference to the insulation in the van?

3) Any other jobs I should look at while I can?

Just want a sense check on my plans to understand if doing this is a good idea, if doing this is a bad idea (ie creates other problems I’ve not thought about), or if there is a better way that I have not though of. Keen to hear from you knowledgable folk that may have done some of these things.

Thanks in advance and sorry for such a long message!
Steve

A lot depends on how you plan to use it;
Carpets look nice but a real pain to clean of mud and the like, you will be getting in and out often in muddy fields if actually camping and its just not practical to change shoes each and every time. Putting in a lino style surface is a lot more practical, it can be swept with a simple brush and cleaned with a damp cloth/wipe.
Most flooring is changed to a light weight ply with insulation underneath and then covered as described above.
Insulating the sides, lots use to do it but when it comes to rust repairs its all got to be stripped out before welding, also it tends to hold moisture within itself which adds to corrosion problems.
We had a full side conversion, with flooring as above but never bothered with side insulation, we've slept out in snow and ice, with just a small three/four section 200-400W oil heater on EHU sites without problems, even in the AFT (if you have one) it was never a problem.

Hi Geoff, thanks for helping me out again.

Original reason for the van is because we go to a camping festival every year with the kids, field, no power, and until now we have done it in a tent. With the Bongo we will use it more and most likely also go to organised camp sites. The plan may evolve as we use it. In the tent we always took shoes off outside so don’t see why that won’t continue.

Rightly or wrongly I think I’m set on the carpet, so really just want to check my choice of insulation is correct/acceptable, and that sticking it down over the entire floor is ok - covering the rubber bungs and the metal plate?

This insulation does state ‘reduces condensation’ but you think it’s a no to insulating the side panels?

https://www.dodomat.com/products/dodo-t ... ro-10mm-se


Steve

The insulation will no doubt reduce condensation on the inside, but the moisture will then remain on the outside and trapped in the material itself, this is next to your external metalwork the vehicle shell, which hasn't been coated and is basically bear metal. As you will see from all the rust discussions its this that causes the biggest problems as the shell then rusts from the inside to outside, once bubbles appear on the outside paint its then to late to sort and requires cutting out and new pieces welded in - its the biggest problem with Japanese cars of this era and takes up a lot of the discussions! Try searching rust problems on the forum

I see yours is a 2001 vehicle, has it been undersealed/waxoiled in some way when it was first imported ? This can be critical for a long life as otherwise if driven in the UK with the salt we use on the roads it gets into all the nooks and seams and starts the rusting process. If it hasn't been undersealed then you need to consider it but be aware that unless you get the salt washed off and removed before its coated then it will continue to eat the shell away

I think mine may be the same as yours, 2001, aero v6 petrol with AFT. It was imported 4 years ago and looks like it’s been under sealed but I can’t be 100% sure. There is no rust to speak of currently.

I definitely won’t insulate the side panels given your comments.i am aware of the rust issues on old Japanese vehicles, have owned a Eunos for around 15 years, partly what got me interested in the Bongo.

Back to the floor though, based on your comments would the insulation also cause these issues on the floor? Although I feel insulating the floor is common practice?

No the floor is OK, as there isn't an air gap behind the metal, it will be the insulation, followed by either carpet or plywood boarding. The problem with the vehicle shell is there is a large air gap or air breathing insulation (wool types) which allows circulation of the external damp air which then condenses on the cold metal and hey presto the rust starts!

I see, good to understand

And sticking the insulation over the metal plate (fuel tank access?) and rubber plugs is ok?

Until you want to get to the fuel tank and the sensor connections! Can you not just cut a piece the same size shape as the fuel hatch, so that at least you can lift that out easily when you need to get to it in the future?

I can, or could even try and not stick it down if it covers the full width between the runners it will hold itself in.