The worry of getting a rust bucket is proving too strong.

[BongoBuyer]

The van we were going to look at last week was sold in the end, so we missed out, but we were panicking the whole time about a potential rust situation.

We're due to visit one tomorrow, and we're just constantly panicking about rust. From photos, the exterior looks absolutely fine - 2012 import, 92,000 miles on the clock and very little problems. However an advisory on last years MOT is 'general under vehicle corrosion' which to me indicates some serious rust?

It just doesn't seem like we can find one that doesn't have something wrong with it. In terms of 'general under vehicle corrosion' what am I actually looking for, serious rust?

[Bob]

The problem is all Bongos are getting old.

Possibly the safest bet would be to buy from one of the reputable dealers, but that costs more than a private sale.

Personally I'd be wary of ‘general rust' as you could be looking at a fortune for repairs.

Not terribly helpful, but good luck with your search.

[TheLongRoad]

They are all getting old as Bob says. I think the choice is between pay a higher price at a Bongo specialist or pay a lower price privately and expect some repairs bills in the future. In the end they all rust but most rust is fixable by the Bongo specialists - they’ve had plenty of experience .

[g8dhe]

Its always wise to ensure that you have some spare money available for any sort of repairs that might be needed, especially if your not confident in being able to recognise the condition of a vehicle yourself.

[Doone]

Have a really good look underneath at crossmembers, suspension mounts, inner sills and arches etc.

If its in good condition and hasn't been undersealed, get it done. It does help to preserve them.

But they're all repairable at a cost. Look at the restoration work on ancient VW campers, that end up looking in showroom condition.

[BongoBongo123]

All old vehicles rust VW, Mazda whatever. I run a 26 y.o. I could punch the arches all day, solid and sealed off. Every year I determined what was best and did mine again this year. If you have non perforated surface rust (i.e no holes) you can do a hell of a lot yourself. As mentioned you would need to know what is easily treated and what is not, what is structural and what is less worrying.

My advice, it is the only advice that actually works. Kill the rust on sight within days if possible. It is the only way to seriously extend life of every mild steel panel and structural part of the vehicle.

POR15 is my weapon of choice at the moment. Pricey paint form the USA but the only thing that does the business IMO. (and no I don't sell the stuff)

Making good preparation is really important. Degreasing where necessary..make sure you treat beyond the rust to slow/stop creep.

It is really rather simple in most cases... screwdriver it off, sand it, 2 coats of POR 15 and then a top coat of your choice.. spray, touch up or Hammerite in places you cannot see (or where you can if you are not too fussy - myself I don't care so much as long as the metal is solid. It's multiple grand bills for holes I dislike ! )