Rust converters, any success.

[Hazzobongo]

I've got some rust on the front subframe, crossmember and areas beneath the radiator I'd like to treat and paint when I'm done sorting out the van internals, I'd like some opinions on how effective these products are and if theres a standup one better than the rest, I've found one called neutrarust 661 which professes its used by the MOD and in offshore work, I'm ex-offshore a few years back and never heard of it or used it before so any advice on this or other products would be most welcome. H

[g8dhe]

Maybe not as bad as needing replacing but here is how to replace it viewtopic.php?p=682485#p682485

[Hazzobongo]

Theres no other rust on this van but surface rust on the crossmember and wishbones/running gear which I want to sort BEFORE it ends up like that one, I asked who had used rust converters and any information on the better ones, thats all, theres nothing that bad to need replacement.

The VAN has been in the country only three years, 6000km, the sills were treated when it was imported so they're all good, my thoughts are to use a converter on the surface rust then waxoil or paint.

[TheLongRoad]

If you’ve a ‘no rust van’ get the wax oil treatment redone on a regular basis professionally rather than faffing with the rattle can stuff. Treat surface rust where necessary. My experience with ‘treatments’ is that they just postpone the inevitable cut out and replace rusty bits with new steel welded in. Just my take on it.

[Hazzobongo]

I understand theres not a great deal you can do to keep rust at bay and postponment is all I'm after, my question is still,

'Which rust converters have you used and what do you consider the best of the bunch'

Its a simple question which I'm asking as I've not used one previously and having 51 views and not one answer relevant to the question is disappointing to say the least on a forum supposedly specialising in these vans and their prevalence for dropping to bits with rust.

[g8dhe]

I've tried rust converters (K-Rust) on other equipment with no great success to be honest, hence I've not used it on the Bongo.
This seems to have had the most discussion viewtopic.php?p=680827#p680827

[Alkers]

I use Vactan myself but it all depends on the source of the rust. If it's rusting from the inside out (like the wheel arches), rust killer won't be effective at all. It's rusting due to a scrape or where the protective paint has worn down (undercarriage), it's a lot more effective.

Hope that helps.

If you're not sure what you're doing, have a professional at least look at it in the first instance and take it from there.

[Hazzobongo]

I just discovered that vactan on youtube yesterday Alkers, a bloke was doing the bilge of his boat its the first I've heard of it. I'll give it a go if I can find a supplier local, the only rust I've got is on the running gear and front crossmember and presently its very light, all the sills and arches have been undersealed at import and I cant see any signs of rust on those parts. Thanks for the reply.

[BongoBongo123]

My best experiences come from POR15 - it is paint.

https://www.frost.co.uk/por15-gray-rust ... int-473ml/

You need to ideally have a rough sanded or better still metal surface ideally that has surface rust.. but without rust dust or grease/oil. It molecularly bonds with the oxide/rust itself and when I say it converts it, it converts it ! No rust has come back form successful POR15 application here. 6 years evidence has built.

The crossmember - I did ours with Kurust and then Hammerite and then layered waxoyl over it as a water repellent guard. This was before I heard of POR15. It has held up well as the only water going on cross member comes in motion typically, salt spray in winter straigh through the grill. When we found the Bongo I heard this was a weak place so put my hands through the front grill and prepared it all as best I could do sanded etc. then Kurust/ Hammerite and Waxoyl on top (not the under body sealant) the "clear" yellow stuff in either spray can or spray gun cans. I just painted the waxoyl over the Hammerite as an extra layer.

In 2022 Hammerite is basically just paint, nothing more nothing less. I personaly do not believe it has any rust inhibiting qualities.

Wherever possible POR15 direct to rust paint is my best recommendation. It is expensive and horrible to work with, extremely chemical but it works. Make certain you degrease and make sure you really take the paint back where it needs to be.

My suggestion for any type of rust work...

ENSURE NO RUSTY EDGES ARE LEFT UNDER EXISTING PAINT AS IT WILL CREEP BACK.

The more thorough you are and vigilent about getting it all the less likely you will be coming back to do it all again in 3-4-5 years.

What with rust and overheating you wonder why we bother. But we do and in droves ! Bongo highs are great Bongo lows are the pits.

I cannot think of a better vehicle to own when they are running nicely.

[ever after.]

^ I've had similar results with POR15, 4 years and still going strong. I sanded off the heavy rust using a drill with a wire brush head. Then applied 2 coats of the grey undercoat and a black overcoat. I Also applied the POR15 metal prep stuff beforehand.

There's a few little bits I'm looking into touching up again but I'll probably use the single layer POR15 this time as it's only a few spots.

Noticed some rust on my exhaust back box recently, suppose I could put some over that too

[BongoBongo123]

I put some POR15 on the exhaust box... no harm in it although it does eventually come off after a year from the heat as it seems
POR15 is not designed as a high temp paint.

[Hazzobongo]

Thanks for the experiences with por15 folks, just what I wanted to hear, thats another one added to my favourites list. H

[BongoBongo123]

In a oddly timed twist of fate I have this precise issue as an advisory since MOT yesterday. Some corrosion but not affecting structure so I will be doing the bottom crossmember under side with POR15 in summer sometime. Strip it back, degrease POR15 x 2 layers and hammerite top coat.

[Hazzobongo]

Well I'm doing internal work on it at present but I'll be getting stuck into the derusting/painting once we're into the summer months.

[BongoBongo123]

Yes, for the best, pick a nice dry weekend. I think the underside is the only part I did not do when we first got the van (crossmember inside grill and top bar and top of lower member was Kurust/Hammerited). I am going to make an assumption once I have POR15'd under it I won't have to think about it ever again, expensive and horrible stuff to work with but it does the job asked of it, if prepared well. So in the long run saves money. I did my rear arch lip on one side last year, that will be a true test if ever there is one !

In the eight years we have owned the Bongo I have managed to keep all rust back through sorting everything I can find just before the onset of winter. Not bad going for an old 96'er. (helped pay for the blooming engine problems) Had a 6 inch bit of steel welded into the sill for a 2 inch hole near where the air con compressor is in front of driver rear arch that was POR15'd before top coating and nothing has come back since. Fun to look back at my first Bongo posts, What's this? What's that? Is this normal ? etc : )