Bongo Fury

Hi all,
The title is a little misleading (so far).

Basically, I'm in the middle of buying a Bongo. The one I've agreed to buy needed a couple of things to go through its CVRT (MOT) which the seller agreed to have done before putting it through the CVRT. If it passes that test then he's got a deal so it's in both of our interests for it to pass.

I've done plenty of reading up on coolant and the Bongo cooling system here but one thing I can't find is just what to do if you've a 2 hour drive ahead of you to bring a newly acquired Bongo home. The coolant levels in this Bongo, in the expansion tank, and the rad, seemed fine when I first saw it. Unfortunately, no coolant alarm fitted (I'll do it myself if I buy it) and no real way of knowing when the coolant was last changed and if the system has been bled correctly.

So, if I buy it, what do I do? Just drive it and keep a very close eye on the temperature gauge? Stop every 30 minutes and get out to check underneath for any leaks? Bring a bottle of distilled water and attempt to bleed the system before hitting the road (never done it before and wife may not be keen to help)?

Which engine type does it have ?

Diesel engine variety suffers the most from an overheat causing head damage,
V6 Petrol same pipework but runs cooler very rare to hear of head damage,
2l Petrol same pipework, but is self bleeding and is the least likely to suffer damage.

The main problem is because of the engine position and the dual heating circuits, the result is a LOT of pipework that can deteriorate over time. If you have a leak then because its a pressurised system there is normally a rapid coolant loss and hence an overheat to the engine.

Best to check the level in the de-gassing tank before setting off, it should be to a depth of 2cm if you use a dip stick (lollipop stick) in the de-gassing tank ONLY WHEN COLD!! Then visually check say after 1/2 hour driving - don't open the tank!! and keep a close eye on the temperature gauge during driving, it should rise to the 11:00 position within 10 minutes of starting and then stay there, if it rises later then you have an overheat (the display is VERY non-linear and doesn't rise above 11:00 until your into damage region )

g8dhe wrote: Sun May 23, 2021 9:08 am Which engine type does it have ?

Diesel engine variety suffers the most from an overheat causing head damage,
V6 Petrol same pipework but runs cooler very rare to hear of head damage,
2l Petrol same pipework, but is self bleeding and is the least likely to suffer damage.

The main problem is because of the engine position and the dual heating circuits, the result is a LOT of pipework that can deteriorate over time. If you have a leak then because its a pressurised system there is normally a rapid coolant loss and hence an overheat to the engine.

Best to check the level in the de-gassing tank before setting off, it should be to a depth of 2cm if you use a dip stick (lollipop stick) in the de-gassing tank ONLY WHEN COLD!! Then visually check say after 1/2 hour driving - don't open the tank!! and keep a close eye on the temperature gauge during driving, it should rise to the 11:00 position within 10 minutes of starting and then stay there, if it rises later then you have an overheat (the display is VERY non-linear and doesn't rise above 11:00 until your into damage region )

Sorry, should've mentioned the engine type. 2.5 diesel so the most vulnerable of the lot I suppose.

When I went to see it last weekend I checked the de-gassing tank (same as expansion tank isn't it?). Impossible to see through ghd plastic, as normal with these, but I used the stick method and it had 2cm of coolant alright.

Not sure how I'd check that once the engine is warm. I could shine a strong torch through it and see if that showed me anything.

Should I also check the ensure coolant is up to the top of the radiator cap before setting off too?

If I see the gauge move from 11 O clock I'll pull in immediately and let it cool down.

Yes shine a light thru it if you can't see it and yes the de-gassing tank is sometimes incorrectly referred to as an expansion tank (in non-pressurised system the expansion of the coolant overflows into a separate expansion tank/bottle where it can be sucked back from when the engine cools).

Don't open the the radiator cap!!! Its below the level of the de-gassing tank and you will drain coolant down from there if its opened - its also under identical pressure.

g8dhe wrote: Sun May 23, 2021 10:03 am Yes shine a light thru it if you can't see it and yes the de-gassing tank is sometimes incorrectly referred to as an expansion tank (in non-pressurised system the expansion of the coolant overflows into a separate expansion tank/bottle where it can be sucked back from when the engine cools).

Don't open the the radiator cap!!! Its below the level of the de-gassing tank and you will drain coolant down from there if its opened - its also under identical pressure.

I'm just so used to saying expansion tank from working on my motorbikes. Thanks for the explanation though, makes sense now.

What sort of level should I see if I shine a torch through the degassing tank? Going on the coolant bleed videos I'm guessing just so long as the level doesn't fall below Minimum it won't be sucking in air.

When I went to see this van there were no obvious coolant leaks underneath (and it had been undersealed at some point in its history). I'm fairly sure that the rear heater system had been blanked off too.

Yes if its below the "low" level mark, then fill it up, but provided there is still some coolant in the tank and it hasn't all disappeared below the outlet pipe level you should be able to get away with just filling it up.

g8dhe wrote: Sun May 23, 2021 1:54 pm Yes if its below the "low" level mark, then fill it up, but provided there is still some coolant in the tank and it hasn't all disappeared below the outlet pipe level you should be able to get away with just filling it up.

Perfect, that is reassuring, thank you. It's a two hour motorway drive home. No real hills so, hopefully, the van won't be under much pressure.

This all being said, I'm worrying about this as if the thing is made of glass. Probably silly I know.

This forum is truly great, but it can also make you paranoid..

Roy748 wrote: Mon May 24, 2021 1:44 pm This forum is truly great, but it can also make you paranoid..

I've been reading waaaay too much about the coolant system, looking at far too many diagrams etc.

I prefer to be armed with the knowledge I need but sometimes ignorance really is bliss . If I do buy this Bongo I want to be able to enjoy it and not worry every time I start the engine. I don't think I'd be this worried if it had had a coolant alarm fitted already - at least if the coolant system let go I could stop the van immediately.

Roy748 wrote: Mon May 24, 2021 1:44 pm This forum is truly great, but it can also make you paranoid..

Definitely, lots of people only seem to login when they've a problem so you only see those topics getting bumped

Mike once described the Techie section as like sitting in A&E.

You would think all people had broken limbs and failed hearts, but wouldn't see all the healthy ones.

Erra, similar for other forums I suppose.

We drive an Alfa Romeo Giulietta as our car - when we were looking we were warned by so many self-appointed experts about Alfas falling apart. It's been rock solid, great fun, makes you feel good, it's everything you could want.

Usually people don't run to a forum to tell the world about how they're having absolutely no problems .

It only takes 30mins to fit a coolant alarm if you have the tools to hand....
You don’t lose any coolant fitting one of ours..

haydn callow wrote: Tue May 25, 2021 2:37 pm It only takes 30mins to fit a coolant alarm if you have the tools to hand....
You don’t lose any coolant fitting one of ours..

That's true, and I'd be confident of fitting it easily, just don't know if it would arrive "on time", it's all so up in the air.

When would you need it by