Bongo Fury

Almost finished the roof service.
Tracks cleaned,motors matched and serviced,stuck rollers released, tent washed out,seals cleaned and repaired,bed deck reversed and sectioned etc even cleaned the solar panel of 2 years accumilated seagull crap!
Last jobs today are net repairs,lock switch move and what appears to be dry joint on motor regulator circuit board item D1 then moving lock switch to dash. This last bit I have a query on. I have continuity checked the switch wires back to the roof controller and it would seem that all I need to do is let in new cable to the controller socket. My question is do the switch wires run directly to the unit or is something else attatched en route?
Roof raise time now 28secs to fully up. Was 40secs so very happy that three days of effort has gained that result.

No they run direct M2-07 in the diagram;


But the reason for putting it in the roof is to get you to look around and ensure that there is nothing left up there that will foul the roof coming down - a safety feature ......

Do you know the screwdriver reference number to fit the screw heads in the roof?

I've always used a Phillips but I do believe they are more likely to be JIS, see here for the differences; https://www.dateelectronicsupplies.co.u ... standard/4

Thanks Geoff.

I cannot zoom up the image of the circuit as my device doesnt support flash and zooming the screen doesnt help. Is the D1 on the board a diode? I have resoldered the joint after scraping of the varnish and I get a consistant reset now rest of board looks OK. I was suprised at the electronics packed in there chips etc as I had assumed it was just a buzzer and a couple of relays. Does it hold the motors in synch or something why so complex?

g8dhe wrote: Thu Jun 11, 2020 1:47 pm I've always used a Phillips but I do believe they are more likely to be JIS, see here for the differences; https://www.dateelectronicsupplies.co.u ... standard/4

That's something I didn't know, thanks,

I'll be ordering a JIS screwdriver set.

Bongolia wrote: Fri Jun 12, 2020 12:08 am Is the D1 on the board a diode? I have resoldered the joint after scraping of the varnish and I get a consistant reset now rest of board looks OK.

Right not sure what your referring to at all I can't see a D1 on the little preview, there are various diodes on the board, you really need to use a browser on a laptop/workstation rather than a mobile device (?) as Flash isn't supported by Google in Android and the iDevices didn't have the battery power needed when they first appeared!
The board is a full 8-bit microprocessor mainly to handle the timing and safety aspects there is a buzzer on-board and a similar signal is also sent to the sound warning system at the front.

Edit: Ah right I guess your looking at the board itself, out of the case ? Yes there is a D1 its a protection diode in case the power supply (starter battery) is reversed most chips won't last many milliseconds when the power supply is reversed!

g8dhe wrote: Thu Jun 11, 2020 1:47 pm I've always used a Phillips but I do believe they are more likely to be JIS, see here for the differences; https://www.dateelectronicsupplies.co.u ... standard/4

Just never stop learning do we, thanks for that!

Yes the trick is to spot the little dimple or spot on the head, otherwise Philips head seems to fit quite well, but those screws are soft mild steel and do damage easily!

g8dhe wrote: Fri Jun 12, 2020 10:07 am Yes the trick is to spot the little dimple or spot on the head, otherwise Philips head seems to fit quite well, but those screws are soft mild steel and do damage easily!

That does go a long way to explain why I had so much trouble stripping down a Japanese carb on a chainsaw recently though. Well done you!

Only learnt about them fairly recently following a post on FB myself. I had often seen the dimple mark, but never understood what it was for!