Bongo Fury

Hi, another newbie here with yet another remote locking problem.

I've had my Bongo for a couple of years but have only now, finally, got my backside in gear and joined Bongo Fury.
Like others here, I've bought a cheap remote locking kit from eBay (a Rightclick one). Following the factsheet in the members section, it all looked pretty straightforward (I'm a bit sketchy on vehicle electrics if I'm honest, but have always managed to pick up anything I've turned my hand to, to a reasonable degree) so I thought I'd give it a go.

I'd hoped to find a forgotten remote locking system in the door that I could just swap out but it was not to be, so it's going to be a case of splicing into other wiring.

Going by the fact sheet, I've ended up a bit stumped.

First thing I noticed was that the fact sheet shows only three wires going to the existing CL circuit. On my 2005 Bongo I have 5.
They are:
Red
Red/grey
White/black
Black
Yellow/red



I'm quite happy with the fact that the black is earth/ground/neutral but can't find the permanent live among these, even with a multimeter.

Reading other similar threads to this one, it seems i should be able to pick up permanent live from any red/blue wire in the drivers door. There are 2 that I can see. One runs to the window switches, the other goes to the window motor. I'm not reading any voltage from either of them at all.
The only wire I'm reading 12v from at any point is the black/red that goes to the window switches when the ignition is on.

I've checked the remote locking kit works and it does, I just need to find a permanent live to feed it. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I seem to be doing something wrong and I can't figure out what.

Yup this has come up a couple of times recently, on later versions of the Bongo the locking system and its wiring have changed, previously, the lock itself had a switch attached which drove the central locking control module. However on later versions this changed and it appears that the loom has changed and the 2-wire solenoid has been replaced with a 5-wire solenoid with its internal switch and possibly the control module has changed as well, but I don't have the diagrams post 2000 to confirm what has changed precisely.

Thanks Geoff.

As I think I'm resigned to running cables either to or from under the dash, is there any reason I can't just splice into the permanent live feeding the ignition?
The live wire for the remote control box I have does have its own fuse.

Yes you can pickup a feed from the existing unswitched live fuse its the 10 Amp top left of the fuse box, make sure you pickup the lower (fused) end rather than the feed to the fuse. Its also possible that this is being fed from any leisure battery you have as its one of the 4 normally swapped across to the LB.

Do you mean the fuse box below right of the steering wheel? 10a top left is labelled hazards. There is a permanent live there. Is that the one?

Also, as my remote box already has its own fuse, why do I need to connect to the lower (fused) end rather than the feed?

Fuses protect the wiring NOT the device, having a fuse at the wrong end of the wire, distant from the power source, won't save the wire going up in flames when its shorted out!
The top left 10 Amp is an unswitched supply, they are numbered not labelled with a name normally unless someone has miss-translated the circuit name.
The hazard light control module is powered from the second fuse in from the left also a 10 Amp fuse, but not one that is swapped across to the leisure battery normally.

Fuses protect the wiring NOT the device, having a fuse at the wrong end of the wire, distant from the power source, won't save the wire going up in flames when its shorted out!

Understood, thanks.

The hazard light control module is powered from the second fuse in from the left also a 10 Amp fuse, but not one that is swapped across to the leisure battery normally.

So if I connect to the fused end, I will end up with the remote locking control box's own 15a fuse "downstream" of a 10a fuse. Doesn't that make the 15a fuse redundant (in which case I'll do away with it)?

I apologise if these are stupid questions, I just don't want to assume anything and get it wrong.

they are numbered not labelled with a name normally

Typical that mine would be atypical! Nothing is ever straight-forward.

Ah OK I see your a 2005 version, they have changed the fuse size it appears the top left is now 15 Amp rather than 10 Amp !
As to the size of the fuse in the device what current do they say the remote can handle ? If they are powering the solenoid itself then its possible but you will still be OK as the Top Left fuse is a 15 Amp.

Its own fuse is 15a, so that's perfect.

All done, back together and working perfectly!

Thanks for your help and patience.

Next stop: speaker upgrades, but that's pretty straight forward. Thanks again.