Bongo Fury

Hi All,

i am looking for a few pointers on replacing my front cross member , fitting a front Bull Bar ( with under shield ) and a Tow bar ?

i have searched the forums , but im struggling to get the answers i need so any help from you guys would be greatly appreciated.

The vehicle in question is a 1998 2.5TD Bongo.

Regards

WOW! thats awful.

Thanks for the link.

Great job , mine is not rusty just a little bent from a recent collision.

How easy is it to remove the front bumper and can i fit the bull bar with bumper in one .

Regards

Looks like there are some acces holes where you could get some waxoil or similar into that cross member. Does appear to be a bit of a water trap.

The bumper is easy to remove, can't help with bull bar, though.

the bongo standard bull bar and intercooler air scoop guard mount to the same bolt fixings as the front tow mounting points shown in the link above, simply remove the 4 each side large bolts to fit. 3 AT THE SIDE AND 1 BELOW.

these are the tow points, 53-395 A and Y
http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html

front bumper is quite easy but some of the fixings seize up /or break when removing, be careful.

http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html

front panel.
http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html

Ok thanks , i take it that once the bumper is off its pretty straight forward to remove the cross member in situe ? Without removing the radiator? And i take from the advide its easier to fit the bull bar after the front bumper has been fitted?

Also any advice on fitting the rear tow bar? Does the rear bumper need to be removed?

REMOVAL OF THE FRONT CROSSMEMBER IS ANYTHING BUT SIMPLE TO REMOVE OR REPLACE, THERE ARE AT 30 SPOT WELDS TO DRILL OUT EITHER SIDE.
sorry about the caps, im not doing it again.lol. you can just cut grind it out, but if you leave the spot weld marks it helps when fitting the new one for positioning.
you can do it without removing the rads but as they are held up by the crossmember you may have to support them while you remove the member, i remove as much as poss to give you room to drill out the spot welds and grind up and clean off and paint/prepare for the new one to go in.

there is a lot of room for moving the coolant rad out of the way as its on longish hoses but the aircon rad is on rigid steel pipework.
its easy enough to do as a job, just takes a little time to do it right. bongos are a little soft in a crash situation. dont cut corners, i plug welded the spot welds to get an accurate position then seam welded it also for added strength.

the rear towbar is easy if you can get the bolts and weird side mountings free, they are usually rotten or brittle plastic, the main mount captive nuts spin and then need cutting off, it helps if you have little hands or a big hammer. the nearside mounting point for the towbar can if not welded up to the floor first be pulled down from the floor as its only mounted using 5-6 spotwelds. look for the panel gaps under the rear light to bumper and make sure they are even at both sides and not too big.

geoff has some good pics of a rear drooping bumper and mounts, maybe he will post em.

http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html

Thanks Northern ,

Ive recently resprayed my rear bumper and the captive nuts have been cut off as they were spinning.

I take it that the tow bar attaches to the two rear frame brackets that the rear bumper attaches to ?

Whats the best way to wire the electrics in ?

Regards

Northern Bongolow wrote: Mon May 14, 2018 12:52 pm geoff has some good pics of a rear drooping bumper and mounts, maybe he will post em.

See thread here https://igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/vie ... 81#p339381

Are there any step by step guides available?