Bongo Fury

Hi everyone,

It's that time of year again when everything starts to look a little tatty and in need of touching up (my excuse to do stuff to my tiny white van)!

Arches are getting rustier by the year, but need them to last a couple more (simply don't have the funds to replace them), so with this in mind, I plan to strip back the arches and fill/paint them myself. I usually do a spot of protective hammeriting, but this is looking like a bigger job then usual - more akin to what I used to have to do with my T2 over 20 years ago.
As you can see, I'm a little out of practice, so: What kind of filler is best? Any tips would be appreciated.

Thanks

Jane

Sounds like you need Fibreglass, Cataloy paste and filler.

mikeonb4c has some experience in this field .

That's what I was worried about!

They don't look that bad from a distance, but I'm worried that once I start removing the rust I won't know when to stop

rita wrote:Sounds like you need Fibreglass, Cataloy paste and filler.

mikeonb4c has some experience in this field .

Reading matter starts here (and follow the links back).

http://igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/view ... ilit=Resin

Although nothing will stop the rusting from within, fibreflass resin is impervious to moisture whereas p38 filler is not. So i cleaned up and filled with p39 but finished off with resin and tape. My n/s arch has some rust splitting now starting so i'll need to revisit it but thats 2 years after last being done. O/s arch still looking 100%

Thanks - know there'd be t thread somewhere - but couldn't find it. Now I just need to be brave

Jane

janie wrote:Thanks - know there'd be t thread somewhere - but couldn't find it. Now I just need to be brave

Jane

Yes it does depend on how seriously you are up for DIY. i needed disposable gloves to protect my hands from resin, disposable paint brushes for applying it, decent breathing apparatus and safely glasses to protect lungs and eyes when using an abrasive disc etc. Old clothing or overalls of course. And i needed a garage with power and space in front of it so i could do the work uninterrupted (p48 and resin both go off in minutes so you can't be toing and froing). Most of all you have to enjoy the challenge as you can't do a good job half heartedly.

I can get the van up to the front of the garage, but not into it......I'm waiting for a dry couple of days when I'm not working.

I enjoy giving most things a go and really can't afford the alternative, so I might be employing the services of my dad to help me. My main worry is getting the shape of the arch right - I have ordered a set of trims so that I can conceal all my 'mistakes', but I need them to fit and I need to get rid of allrust before I start so that they don't just make the problem worse.

I don't have breathing apparatus - do you think a mask would do the job well enough (I do have goggles etc. for my eyes)?

janie wrote:I can get the van up to the front of the garage, but not into it......I'm waiting for a dry couple of days when I'm not working.

I enjoy giving most things a go and really can't afford the alternative, so I might be employing the services of my dad to help me. My main worry is getting the shape of the arch right - I have ordered a set of trims so that I can conceal all my 'mistakes', but I need them to fit and I need to get rid of allrust before I start so that they don't just make the problem worse.

I don't have breathing apparatus - do you think a mask would do the job well enough (I do have goggles etc. for my eyes)?

Disposable masks and common sense should do. For access you rally want car jacked up and wheel removed (old sheet or similar draped over brake/hub assembly and axle stand safer than jack alone when working on car). I think a very reasonable approach is to use arch trims for finish instead of hoping to get a result by hand, but of course they won't stop corrosion from within so will need to be removable if you have to redo work when corrosion returns (or by then you may have saved up for full wheel arch replacement).

It would be useful to see pics of your arches to assess extent of corrosion, if you could post some. Remember too there may be corrosion elsewhere less visible than arches. Has anyone inspected lately? If any welding has to be done nearby (cill ends, inner arches etc), best done ahead of wheel arches as fibreglass, waxoyl etc are combustible.

If I'm honest it doesn't look too bad - they're looking a bit misshapen around the arch and the bit that attaches to the rear bumper is the most corroded part (passenger side). Driver's side not too bad at all - I just want to do it before it gets any worse. As far a I can tell the cills aren't too bad (I will sand them and treat them at the same time, but no visible rust just now.

I don't have any pictures and until the paint is removed they wouldn't show much anyway - so it looks as though I'll just have to make a start and hope for the best!

Jane

janie wrote:If I'm honest it doesn't look too bad - they're looking a bit misshapen around the arch and the bit that attaches to the rear bumper is the most corroded part (passenger side). Driver's side not too bad at all - I just want to do it before it gets any worse. As far a I can tell the cills aren't too bad (I will sand them and treat them at the same time, but no visible rust just now.

I don't have any pictures and until the paint is removed they wouldn't show much anyway - so it looks as though I'll just have to make a start and hope for the best!

Jane

Good luck. Its the ends of the cill arches inside the wheel arch that i was thinking of. Poke them hard with a sharp screwdriver to check for rust through holes. I brushed off all mud and loose material and then brushed on dinitrol to protect against water spray, grit and salt etc

Yes - the one on the passenger side had a rust spot - I'll sand it back and give it a closer look before I make a decision.

Thanks for all your help.

Jane

for a non porous filler (aluminium filler)

http://www.frost.co.uk/dinitrol-6030-me ... iller.html