Bongo Fury

Hi all,

I can see lots of posts regarding temp and coolant alarms, but couldn't see any posts about this subject in particular.

Am going to be fitting a TM1 soon and wondered if anybody knew how and where to pick up the oil light sender signal?

Also in order to hardwire power to the unit, would it be ok to take an inline fused feed off the top leg (post ignition starter battery feed) of a fusebox connector after fitting the cable swap loom pin to the bottom rail, or is there a better way?

Cheers

Simplest solution for power is to use a piggy back fuse on an ignition switched circuit by the driver's right knee. Picture in this post:
http://igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/view ... se#p662384

Thanks Chris,

Will check them out.

Ahttp://www.enginewatchdog.com/tm1.html

All info on TM1

We are agents for these alarms from engine watchdog

Carnt get that link to open.
Google. Engine Watchdog tm1

Its the A that was attached at the start try http://www.enginewatchdog.com/tm1.html

Well done Geoff .

Hi all, just fitted a TM1 to my 2.5 turbo diesel 1996, you can pick up the sender wire on the nearside
lift pass:seat right in front of you is the alternator, on top of the alternator there is a bit of a loom
coming out of it there is a brown/white wire with a white connector (one wire) the brown/white wire goes
down to sender, all I did was splice into it with crimp terminals and connect back up to white connector
all working perfectly (did not even get dirty) VERY EASY.
Les

leswats44 wrote:Hi all, just fitted a TM1 to my 2.5 turbo diesel 1996, you can pick up the sender wire on the nearside
lift pass:seat right in front of you is the alternator, on top of the alternator there is a bit of a loom
coming out of it there is a brown/white wire with a white connector (one wire) the brown/white wire goes
down to sender, all I did was splice into it with crimp terminals and connect back up to white connector
all working perfectly (did not even get dirty) VERY EASY.
Les

Excellent. If crimp terminals are Scotchloks though I'd get back to them and do something more sturdy. Scotchloks have all had to be replaced over time where used on my Bongo - they're a pain for developing poor connection as they age.

Scotchloks = BAD
Soldered = GOOD
Scotchloks work,in theory, by cutting into the insulation and contacting the conductor but more often than not cutting through the conductor, nasty things.

Just found the extra Smilies!

Crimp terminals will be fine.

Hi all, yes I did use crimpers, but the insulated ones, will be soldered and heat shrunk
when I can get mains power as parked in road.
Les

This type of thing might be worth a look:

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/ ... 0wod3rgAww

Hi Bob, good thought, but the way my hands shake might
burn motor down. insurance comp: might not believe age
related
Les

G-meister wrote:Hi all,

I can see lots of posts regarding temp and coolant alarms, but couldn't see any posts about this subject in particular.

Am going to be fitting a TM1 soon and wondered if anybody knew how and where to pick up the oil light sender signal?

Also in order to hardwire power to the unit, would it be ok to take an inline fused feed off the top leg (post ignition starter battery feed) of a fusebox connector after fitting the cable swap loom pin to the bottom rail, or is there a better way?

Cheers

Hi, when I wired mine I used mini piggyback fuse spade type terminals all I did was change the end bullet type
as it is different size then removed ign/controled fuse #11(I think) put in fuse for TM1 connect blue bullets
replace into where fuse #11 came from. I brought my wire through back of fuse board it fits no problem
replace cover.
ps the fuse board is the one by drivers knee
Les