Bongo Fury

Hello Bongoliers

I'm having to replace front ARb, bushes n brackets, and droplinks on a 1996 2.5 TDI. I ordered replacement droplinks from Ava, and they duly arrived.

I have one question though, the links I removed actually utilised three nuts, not two, in that there was also a backnut on the upper balljoint spindle ( just one on the lower, which attaches to the antiroll bar arm, but on the upper, which attaches to the bracket on the suspension column, not only was there one on the outer face of the bracket, but also one between the inner bracket face and the droplink balljoint. )
Please could someone advise whether this backnut is essential ( it is shown in the manual etc ). If so, how far up the spindle should I wind the backnut, before passing the top droplink spindle through the bracket?

( I have already called in a few places to obtain replacement backnuts for the ones I ground off, but cannot match the thread with the supplied droplinks' balljoint spindles ).


I would really really appreciate any thoughts you could spare, as currently the Bongo is taking up garage space while I 'phone a friend' (that's you!).

You guys have been hugely helpful in the past, so the forum seemed the logical place to go

Hope you are all keeping well
Massive thanks

JeffDee

ive not seen them with 2 nuts on the top, they do have spanner flats on though.

http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html.

strange, there are some here.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=mazda ... oIE5LcM%3A.

but these from the same supplier are different.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=mazda ... fCVgxSM%3A.

maybe just a different source to the supplier.

top tip number 1.
when cutting the old ones off,(you usually have to) cut them through the ball side to keep the nut good for the next one if needed.

The drop links do not have a back nut, they sometimes have a hex which is P&P of the ball assy..Just use as supplied and use the hex to stop the ball from turning if appropriate.

This is all smashing stuff guys, thanks a million for getting back to me so soon!

So concensus is - no backnut.
After the grinder went through one, and the the other had been rounded out of recognition, it was a a bit of a job discerning what had originally been on there...

And there were definitely two different makes of droplink, as evidenced by the variety of nuts.

On the boot side of the new set from Ava, there are I believe flats for spanner purchase, I'll check again tomorrow, and also post up the reply I get from Ava ( if indeed they reply to my ebay query ).

I'm still feeling a wee bit cautious mind, as the manual deffo shows some kind of inner nut on the upper spindle - this is confusing in light of the bona fide lushparts drawing referred to by Bongolow, not what I was expecting.

How did you guys wind er up to torque without damaging the boot ( as the flat is pretty close in to that )?

I'll post up some pics tomorrow and let you know how I get on.

Thanks again, much respect to the forum!!

Don't recall ever torquing mine - just did them up tight. And are they nylocks? If so that would imply an acknowledgement that accurate torquing may not be accurate. No doubt techies on here will correct/confirm.

just had a route through my garage stocks and found 2 pairs of new front drop links both with back nuts, got some spare nuts too.

mikeonb4c wrote:Don't recall ever torquing mine - just did them up tight. And are they nylocks? If so that would imply an acknowledgement that accurate torquing may not be accurate. No doubt techies on here will correct/confirm.

Thanks Mike, noted.

Northern Bongolow wrote:just had a route through my garage stocks and found 2 pairs of new front drop links both with back nuts, got some spare nuts too.

I know, right? Thanks for that Bongolow. Here is my reply vis a vis backnuts from Ava on ebay -

"Hi,
Bongo drop links should not have a back nut to my knowledge. They may have been changed previously & had the wrong ones fitted. Please see pictures off genuine Mazda ones on our web site."

Now, I can't display those pictures because of copyright, but the picture shows a droplink with an outward facing, apparently fully wound in, shouldered nut on each spindle. Whether that's just how the supplied nuts are attached for transit, or whether they are integral with the spindles, or again, just half of a supplied pair, I don't know. Have replied to Ava (again) lol.

While there does not seem to be a consensus, I think teenmal has nailed it when he says that it all depends on the make.
If you look at the genuine Mazda droplinks, they differ in that they're chunkier and seem to have backnuts ( as depicted in that well known privately printed manual p285 exploded diagram, part ref no. "1" " Stabilizer Control Link Attachment Nuts " ), and yes, cost a fair whack more than patterns.

Whether this has any impact on the suspension system, I really couldn't say.
Either way, the Bongo must come off the jacks today. So I'm piling on with it.

The job so far, with pictures of removed nuts and replacement parts;







You can plainly see, above, the variation on the 'backnut' or lack thereof.

The replacement I got for the ARB is not perfect...




but still better than the replaced part..




Get well soon, Bongo!


Thanks again for all your comments everyone, and cheers Bongolow - I'm going with the 'no backnut' set up on these pattern rods for the time being. Everyone else seems to lol.

Best

JeffDee

Just thought I'd update, as you guys have been so kind with your time.

So, off the jacks today, and a test spin confirmed no nasty knocks and bumps, hooray.
I followed, again, indispensible advice gleaned from the forum, when tightening up the ARB brackets - that is, dropping the vehicle and doing it on the ground, which was a wee bit of a squeeze as I don't have ramps, but that went ok anyways.
I found the droplink nuts were easy enough nipped up, and I also had a bit of a clean and paint round the chassis, strut and few other rusty bits. Greased the pipes and its looking tidy (er) underneath.

there's a fair old bit of rust management to do, but hey, it'll keep me out of trouble.

So, job done, and another huge thanks guys

vbest,
Jeff

Excellent. Start budgeting for that rust - its a fact of life with an ageing Bongo, but they're worth the money spent in welding.