Bongo Fury

I've had my new arches welded in now and want to keep them like they are now!

Looking from the inside (pulling the door pockets out) they just look white inside now - much better than the rust I could see before.

Just wondering if I'd be best to give it a coat of something to help protect it? I've heard that condensation forms in there when you camp in the Bongo.

Is it worth putting any insulation in too?

Just want to try to help to protect it for as long as possible

If its unconverted i remove the interior panels and literally pour waxoyl in after sealing as much as i can. If converted i remove the rear lights and insert a probe and pump waxoyl in as i draw it back out

Thanks it has a mid conversion.

It has quite good access when you take the pocket out of the side - is it not worth accessing from there rather than the light?

Is it worth painting it further first as well?

I've got some industrial chassis paint - think it is called Technogrip - Made by a company called Lechler (or something like that) - I've had great results painting things before. Just wondering if it is worth giving it a coat of that before waxoyl?

Ideally, you needed the Waxoyl as thin as possible so it seeps into all the little gaps. Some folk use white spirit to thin it out but that results in less wax where you want it. What I did was to heat the tin in hot water so the Waxoyl is liquid and then spray it liberally around all the seams. To aid the process, you could also use a hairdryer to warm the metalwork before and after treatment. If you paint it first, it is likely to seal off some the areas that you'd otherwise be able to get Waxoyl into.

if your going to use wax oil make sure all the welding is done, as going back in with a torch after can be a little fraught. spraying into the inner arch runs into the back end of the cills, then forwards along it under braking etc.

i prefer to use 3-4 ltrs of clean oil, mix with a tube of good grease, boil the lot up on your mrs,s new cooker in her best pan, when it fills the kitchen with blue acrid smoke its ready to put in your oil gun and fire it on /in the bongo, when it cools the grease sets with a nice skin and traps a layer of wet oil against the metal, last for years. self sealing too if it gets stone chipped on the underside unlike other treatments.

Hi
It's not a fit and forget treatment...repeat at least every 2 years...I usually repeat it annually...sills, cavities and doors box sections, etc.
Cheers
Helen

Northern Bongolow wrote:if your going to use wax oil make sure all the welding is done, as going back in with a torch after can be a little fraught. spraying into the inner arch runs into the back end of the cills, then forwards along it under braking etc.

i prefer to use 3-4 ltrs of clean oil, mix with a tube of good grease, boil the lot up on your mrs,s new cooker in her best pan, when it fills the kitchen with blue acrid smoke its ready to put in your oil gun and fire it on /in the bongo, when it cools the grease sets with a nice skin and traps a layer of wet oil against the metal, last for years. self sealing too if it gets stone chipped on the underside unlike other treatments.

Ian Taylor wasn't very impressed recently with my bongo when I told him I'd waxoyled it and he needed to do welding on it!

helen&tony wrote:Hi
It's not a fit and forget treatment...repeat at least every 2 years...I usually repeat it annually...sills, cavities and doors box sections, etc.
Cheers
Helen

agree...... good practice to recover the rear arches and the box section behind the front wheels annually.... it's a road water "wash" area & thins out quickly there.....

dobby wrote:

Northern Bongolow wrote:if your going to use wax oil make sure all the welding is done, as going back in with a torch after can be a little fraught. spraying into the inner arch runs into the back end of the cills, then forwards along it under braking etc.

i prefer to use 3-4 ltrs of clean oil, mix with a tube of good grease, boil the lot up on your mrs,s new cooker in her best pan, when it fills the kitchen with blue acrid smoke its ready to put in your oil gun and fire it on /in the bongo, when it cools the grease sets with a nice skin and traps a layer of wet oil against the metal, last for years. self sealing too if it gets stone chipped on the underside unlike other treatments.

Ian Taylor wasn't very impressed recently with my bongo when I told him I'd waxoyled it and he needed to do welding on it!

Well it is Ian that has welded the new arches in! He hasn't put any waxoyl in so perhaps thinks it is better without? He fully waxoyled the chassis and underneath etc when I first bought it.

its the age old problem, if you fix the motor yourself you want to make it easier/safer for yourself. when i do the underside of mine i dont do it the week before the mot, thats the best way to really brass off the tester, try to get all the suspension up to standard, get 12 months test on it, then treat everything.

mikexgough wrote:

helen&tony wrote:Hi
It's not a fit and forget treatment...repeat at least every 2 years...I usually repeat it annually...sills, cavities and doors box sections, etc.
Cheers
Helen

agree...... good practice to recover the rear arches and the box section behind the front wheels annually.... it's a road water "wash" area & thins out quickly there.....

Hi
Yes, I do that too ...BUT....BUT....as Ady says.....get any welding done BEFORE proofing, as it's a nightmare to weld, and dangerous.
If you check the rust guarantees on a new car, they are only valid if you have the internal wax protection topped up every 2 years, which some service centres ignore, so the longevity depends on how the vehicle is used, and as many cars have galvanised or coated panels, they aren't as rusty as years gone by, BUT, if you get a vehicle BEFORE the rust sets in, and check/ top up the internal wax protection every 2 years, then you should be alright for many years ownership....
One thing to bear in mind is that it's NOT just the Bongo that rusts from inside out....THEY ALL DO...
NEVER put a wet car in the garage....leave it outside to dry in the wind
ALWAYS leave the windows open a tad if you've been out in the rain and got in with wet clothes / damp dogs
ALWAYS leave the windows open after sleeping in it
Cheers
Helen

sotal wrote:

dobby wrote:

Northern Bongolow wrote:if your going to use wax oil make sure all the welding is done, as going back in with a torch after can be a little fraught. spraying into the inner arch runs into the back end of the cills, then forwards along it under braking etc.

i prefer to use 3-4 ltrs of clean oil, mix with a tube of good grease, boil the lot up on your mrs,s new cooker in her best pan, when it fills the kitchen with blue acrid smoke its ready to put in your oil gun and fire it on /in the bongo, when it cools the grease sets with a nice skin and traps a layer of wet oil against the metal, last for years. self sealing too if it gets stone chipped on the underside unlike other treatments.

Ian Taylor wasn't very impressed recently with my bongo when I told him I'd waxoyled it and he needed to do welding on it!

Well it is Ian that has welded the new arches in! He hasn't put any waxoyl in so perhaps thinks it is better without? He fully waxoyled the chassis and underneath etc when I first bought it.

I think my bongo was there at the same time as yours? He's treated the bongo a few times but not sure what with