Bongo Fury

Hi
My central locking has gone and I need to check the wiring behind the glove compartment. A DVD (101 Dalmations) got wedged behind the glove compartment (a present for my granddaughter) and it might have dislodged something.
So, to stop rambling on, my question is: how do I remove the glove compartment?

Many thanks in anticipation.
Steve

From memory, open the glove box, the sides squeeze in slightly, which means it will open down to the floor, then just pull and unclip the hinge clip things if you need it out completely.

roosmith wrote:From memory, open the glove box, the sides squeeze in slightly, which means it will open down to the floor, then just pull and unclip the hinge clip things if you need it out completely.

Spot on. If you look you"ll see a moulded in plastic spigot on either side that stops the glovebox opening too far. Squeeze the sides in so they slip past the retaining edge on the fascia and then lower the glovebox until it can be pulled away from the pivot points. Easy once you know how.

I had mine off only yesterday to look at a problem with my central locking. Have a search for the happy outcome, reported on the relevant tbread.

Edit: here's the thread in case it helps.

http://igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/view ... 1&start=15

Thanks all
I'll give it a go tomorrow after checking out the central locking thread and report back if I find anything interesting.

Steve

Hi
Got the glove compartment drawer off - no problem after following your advice. However, I could find no loose wiring.
Following the link you provided, I checked the wiring loom in the driver's side door and found it was damp after all the rain we've had presumably. I wiggled it about a bit, shook off some water, and the central locking is now working. I suspect this fix may be only temporary as the wiring flexes each time the door is opened and closed.
Do you have any advice/tips for securing the wiring? It looks a bit fiddly.

Cheers
Steve

Its very common for the flexing of the door loom at the hinge to work harden the wires which then snap inside the insulation giving intermittent working, eventually the insulation also snaps and then various functions will stop working! It can be repaired by unwrapping the protection finding the snapped wire and rejoining them with butt connectors, but be aware that several others might go over time as well once they have started going!

Be VERY gentle mind, one of the spigots on mine snapped off very easily

g8dhe wrote:Its very common for the flexing of the door loom at the hinge to work harden the wires which then snap inside the insulation giving intermittent working, eventually the insulation also snaps and then various functions will stop working! It can be repaired by unwrapping the protection finding the snapped wire and rejoining them with butt connectors, but be aware that several others might go over time as well once they have started going!

Would soldering and heatshrink insulation be possible and more compact and reliable? Or is the area too confined for that?

Depends on how many are broken! If there are lots then yes soldering and heat shrink insulation is best answer as it makes a thinner more compact joint, if its a just a couple then this style of heat shrink & solder butt connector is quick and easy. Just make sure the exposed copper is clean! http://www.amazon.co.uk/Waterproof-Sold ... connectors

Hi
Mike
I kept my loom going for years by stripping the insulation, soldering and heat-shrink tube, but eventually got a loom from the club shop...
Cheers
Helen

helen&tony wrote:Hi
Mike
I kept my loom going for years by stripping the insulation, soldering and heat-shrink tube, but eventually got a loom from the club shop...
Cheers
Helen

Geoff - thanks for that advice.

Helen - ha ha yes, I opted to get a new loom rather than investigate. In the end it seems the loom wasn't at fault but I regard it as a 'when not if' investment anyway and at least I have the old loom to do research on etc.