Bongo Fury

Many recommend removing the thermostat housing to make stat replacement easier. Such as in this thread here. This requires replacement of the gasket between the housing and block, presumably 15-165 in this diag

In the thread linked above Titan suggests getting the gasket from a Ford garage. Here comes the numty question. What do Ford know this engine as or should I refer to a specific model of Ford Ranger? or are there other easy sources?

Indeed it is a lot easier to do this.

I just went my local Ford dealer and got one from a Ranger 2.5l.

Going to check back through my records, I should have part number somewhere.

Watch this space.

I have a receipt from 2012 I believe the part number to be F3599718.

What a star! Thanks for digging through your paperwork.

cmm303 wrote:Many recommend removing the thermostat housing to make stat replacement easier. Such as in this thread here. This requires replacement of the gasket between the housing and block, presumably 15-165 in this diag

In the thread linked above Titan suggests getting the gasket from a Ford garage. Here comes the numty question. What do Ford know this engine as or should I refer to a specific model of Ford Ranger? or are there other easy sources?

To get the Mazda PN just click on the item number IE 15-165 in your case and the PN will display on the LHS of the screen.

And the engine is a WLT type WLTD if fitted with a Turbo.

WL0115165

Just in case any 2wd diesel owners are reading this, changing the thermostat doesn't present the same access problems as on a 4wd and you shouldn't need to use this approach. (smug 2wd owner wot has dun it)

Useful tip, cheers Mike.

mikeonb4c wrote:Just in case any 2wd diesel owners are reading this, changing the thermostat doesn't present the same access problems as on a 4wd and you shouldn't need to use this approach. (smug 2wd owner wot has dun it)

You are perfectly correct its only a 10 minute job on a STD vehicle, but its is sometimes advisable to remove the housing for inspection and to give the inside a good clean to prevent future problems.


Good Luck.

rita wrote:

mikeonb4c wrote:Just in case any 2wd diesel owners are reading this, changing the thermostat doesn't present the same access problems as on a 4wd and you shouldn't need to use this approach. (smug 2wd owner wot has dun it)

You are perfectly correct its only a 10 minute job on a STD vehicle, but its is sometimes advisable to remove the housing for inspection and to give the inside a good clean to prevent future problems.


Good Luck.

I've not heard that suggested before. Unless there is reason to suspect a gunged up system might this be overkill? I'm just thinking its extra work and labour cost which might not be needed

Have to admit it took me rather more than 10 mins to do the job, and that was without the time I spent refilling and bleeding the system. I doubt a garage would employ me

I never had a problem changing thermostat on 4WD before. Decent socket set with universal joint facilitates access to the bolts to allow the housing to be split open. I seem to recall having to loosen the dipstick mount to make access easier for something around that area: could have been thermostat removal?

Simon Jones wrote:I never had a problem changing thermostat on 4WD before. Decent socket set with universal joint facilitates access to the bolts to allow the housing to be split open. I seem to recall having to loosen the dipstick mount to make access easier for something around that area: could have been thermostat removal?

Officially (stress that, and check as I'm only repeating what I think I've read on BF) I think the workshop manual says the front propshaft needs to be removed on the 4WD to get access? However, some clever b*ggers have managed to do it as you did, without removing the propshaft?

Either way, its quicker and more straightforward on the 2WD by all accounts?

Go with Simon on this one. The key is to remove the dipstick bolt as Simon says and use a universal joint on a 9" long extension and access from underneath with a 12mm socket on the end. Did mine today and its a 4WD.

Can't wait .... well for warmer weather. Collecting everything together: 17 hoses, water pump, thermostat. Housing gasket on order at Ford garage for a couple quid. Still need to sort out clips and me bleeding kit! Now somebody has pointed out a nice looking V6 ... Aghhh the trials of Bongo love.

dont forget the fan switch, its a good idea to replace it as its got lots to control, glow plugs, cold starts, front fans, egr, all the temp related stuff.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=mazda ... DrRr3VM%3A

Northern Bongolow wrote:dont forget the fan switch, its a good idea to replace it as its got lots to control, glow plugs, cold starts, front fans, egr, all the temp related stuff.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=mazda ... DrRr3VM%3A

No more ..... please no more!! Part 18-840C in this diag? Bongo towers has 2 types in the shop: Top, single wire £30 and Lower, double wire £46. Which one? Ouch, double ouch! Guessing it needs to be done with the coolant drain/refill?

Now to message Haydn, see what we can sort out with these fancy hose clips (can't afford Mazda ones!)

I already had the 4 big diameter hoses and I am gob smacked how much this little job is costing in parts alone. With the above switch, there'll certainly be no change from £500 and I have not touched a metal pipe ..... yet. I'm 1/4 Scottish, but feeling the pain as if whole Scottish just at the moment. I'm sure a trouble free tour of their lands will be worth it!