Bongo Fury

Hi there, I've just bought a 96 plate 2.5l diesel AFT.

It's had the head replaced and appears in good condition. I'm aware of the 6000 mile oil changes but what other servicing is required / recommended to keep everything working?

Anything to be done with the roof, doors, air con etc?

THanks!

Hi, and a very warm welcome.

Oil change is 3000 miles or six months, service is 6000 miles or annually on the turbo diesel, whichever is first.

I'm sure there is a Service Schedule somewhere listing what has to be done, and bear in mind that many Bongos record distance travelled in kilometres.

Hi and welcome. I change the oil on my diesel about every 5k miles, reasoning that oil technology is better than when the design requirements were drawn up. I generally use 5W/30 semi synthetic and try and stock up when its on offer. I change oil filter every other oil change. I use a Pela extraction pump so I don't have the hassle of removing sump plug and attendant risk of spillage - Pela seems to get all the oil out fine, just need to take care to insert the extraction probe carefully so it touches bottom of the sump (you can feel it doing that if you're careful) and also make sure oil is warmed up so it sucks up easily. I do my own basic work. Air filter v easy to change, oil filter likewise (but put a washing up bowl under it to catch spillage - the right shape bowl can be slipped inside the engine under-cowl). Fuel filter can be a bit tight so need a filter wrench, and make sure you detach the plug in sensor before turning it so as not to twist wiring / break it while undoing filter. Disc pads not hard to change as long as you use g clamp and offcut of wood to protect piston face as you push piston back in to allow new pads to fit in. Drop links and anti roll bar bushes straightforward provided you don't encounter rusted bolts though again, you need the right spanners (esp for the front droplinks, to hold bolt from turning while you undo nut). I generally treat myself and let garage do droplinks etc these days. I've changed middle and rear exhaust sections also without difficulty. Antifreeze should be changed every 2 years or so if ethylene glycol type or 5yrs if long life antifreeze (and you shoudn't swap from one type to the other without flushing the system). Personally I don't drain the rear heater but rely on the amount of old antifreeze mix being left there being inconsequential once system refilled with new antifreeze (I use ethylene glycol cos its cheaper and less hassle with a low coolant alarm - long life can coat the sensor screws and set off false alarms). Rear heater section is where I suspect greatest risk of air bubbles being introduced and being hard to get out). There's not a lot else to service apart from inspecting, protecting, greasing where necessary and looking out for leaks that may mean garage repairs needed soon(e.g. fuel pump, steering rack, brake pistons, shock absorbers, rocker cover, 4WD drive assembly if applicable, coolant pipes - metal ones by rear heater corrode from outside underneath with road salt etc). And regularly check windscreen bottom gutter drain isn't blocked as rainwater overflows onto heater motor and causes corrosion and seizing of motor and blow resistor trouble if not watched.

Also, fit low coolant alarm as insurance against leaking pipes as diesel does not like suffering an overheat. An engine block temp gauge is also handy. And make sure any garage that bleeds the coolant system understands and follows the correct procedure.

These are old cars though so interest in and regular inspection and budget for maintenance is advisable if ownership is to be happy. Great vehicle though.


Happy Bongoing

P.S. And expect trouble with the electric lifting roof at some point and know how to lower it in an emergency. With that and with the blinds, folding mirrors etc. use them regularly to (hopefully) reduce problems with electrics seizing / contacts going dodgy with age and lack of use. I close my blinds and fold my mirrors every day at the end of my commute. And I had two new motors put in my roof a few years back after the old ones went AWOL.

P.P.S If you don't have a fullsize spare wheel then get one - there's usually some lying around from old Bongos.

P.P.P.S - use the aircon regularly, even in cold weather (it improves demisting a lot when used with hot air), to keep seals lubricated.

Hi there and welcome to Bongoing, it's great ! See if there has been a cam belt changed recently in the documentation/receipts. If not then you might want to find out if is has been changed and if not change it.

I reckon on checking for small rust spots/spread around the back end of summer and ensure you tackle them with some sandpaper/Kurust/primer and paint it is good basic and easy work and gets you intimately acquainted with your Bongo. The rear arches are known danger points for rust.

A few "Gottya's" to be aware of: Minor things to keep an eye on... fuel gauge can become iffy and read wrong and relates to earthing of the tank to the chassis (can be an easy-ish fix as I just did mine). The trip meter can make a disconcerting whirring/ticking noise after a reset (rest it again and it normally quietens) and watch out for the HOLD button on the Auto box shifter... the give away is the orange HOLD button appearing on the dash panel (along with the Bongo not changing up a gear)

Do not slam the AFT side door like a panel van... it has an electrical motor assist and will last a lot longer with a gentle "slide to" and let the motor glide the door in. Not SLAM-BANG-WALLOP.

Carry a very long piece of Paracord (I have 100feet in the van) or long rope in case the AFT jams open (don't panic though...only covering a worse case scenario here) you need a long strong cord to get or hold it down. Print out the respective pages in the Owners manual and pop them in the glove box as it gives the instructions on how to get it down in case of a fail so you can get back home. Also the fuel gauge reads the tank contents without any key in the ignition, that is normal.

That will get you started : )

Thanks for all the comments so far! The van is a bit tatty so I've plenty to keep busy with!

I don't think I have an owners manual, how can I go about getting one? I saw one on Amazon but it was over $200!

Bongo Shop does owner's hand book and workshop manuals, nowhere near that kind of £££.

Alkers wrote:Thanks for all the comments so far! The van is a bit tatty so I've plenty to keep busy with!

I don't think I have an owners manual, how can I go about getting one? I saw one on Amazon but it was over $200!

Definitely go looking for and assessing the rust situation, including those vulnerable metal coolant pipes around the rear heater unit. best to know the worst sooner rather than later. Once various items sorted, and even if it costs a bit, the Bongo should give a lot of pleasure

Engine drain plug V V easy to get to - there is a gap in the undertray. Need a 19mm socket or spanner. Remember to put Copperslip grease on it before you put it back on to make it easier to get off next time. I can undo the oil filter by hand as it should not be put on too tight anyway.

Just spotted this owners manual £20.00 that is not bad....

http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASI ... qmedia-21/

That's the 'Glove Box' handbook.

Very useful (I've got one), but will not give much in the way of 'Service' info.

I have one of those and it's not very detailed but a start I guess.

I'm going to look after the following myself over the holdiays:
Cam belt, bearing and spring (how do I know if these need replacing?)
fuel filter,
engine oil (6 months since oil & filter),
glow plugs (how to tell if longer or shorter?).
I'm gonna check out the ATF and if it's off I'll get my mechanic to change it and the ATF filter as well as the transfer case lube, diff oil and brake fluid.

EDIT: there's 150,000 km on the van and the only service history I have is that the head, oil filter, oil, coolant and air filter were changed last June.

Is there anything to be done to the AFT or the sliding door?

Once all of the above is done, I'll be moving onto cosmetics!

If you're changing the cam belt it makes sense to do the associated bits and pieces while you've got it apart, not much extra cost and no labour.

I wouldn't try to analyse the old bits.

Alkers wrote:I have one of those and it's not very detailed but a start I guess.

I'm going to look after the following myself over the holdiays:
Cam belt, bearing and spring (how do I know if these need replacing?)
fuel filter,
engine oil (6 months since oil & filter),
glow plugs (how to tell if longer or shorter?).
I'm gonna check out the ATF and if it's off I'll get my mechanic to change it and the ATF filter as well as the transfer case lube, diff oil and brake fluid.

EDIT: there's 150,000 km on the van and the only service history I have is that the head, oil filter, oil, coolant and air filter were changed last June.

Is there anything to be done to the AFT or the sliding door?

Once all of the above is done, I'll be moving onto cosmetics!

Anyone who has a basic knowledge about motor vehicle maintenance would typically keep the receipts for supply of parts and fitting for a cam belt knowing it is a good selling point. If they are absent get a new one and the tensioner/spring etc.

I saw no such receipts when I bought ours so did without even thinking twice. The cost of supply and fit vs a destroyed engine puts it in perspective. I am however not a mechanic and others may be able to offer more sound advice.

Depends how risky you want to live I guess.

If you get a good photo of the top of the glow plugs people on here can advise if you search my posts I posted up about mine and got some in - mine has long ones, apparently the only difference is the tops stick out further. (though I now believe some slight starting issues I have occasionally had in winter to be related to the Bongo being parked facing front down hill.... strange but true ! I think my glow plugs are fine. My guess is fuel following gravity and I get a little cough and splutter once in a while but only if the van has been down facing for 5 or more days. No such issue when it is flat or facing the other way)

Unless you are having starting problems they might be fine as they are.

double post

BongoBongo123 wrote: Unless you are having starting problems they might be fine as they are.

Do you think I'd be alright leaving them as is so, I'm not having any issues starting.