Bongo Fury

First of all, thanks to Northern Bongolow for the tips.

After discovering the price of the replacement rear bump stops (rear axle) I decided to make my own.

Got some rubber fender material from here:
https://www.polymax.co.uk/rubber-fender ... 78mm-thick


Then cut in in half to make two stops which are around 100mm long.

Then I made some metal plates to which I glued the rubber with strong wet- grip adhesive, and also made a metal "strap" which runs through the central hole of the rubber to make it extra secure. The metal plate uses the old bump stop plate as a template (though mine are slightly narrower at 50mm), and the holes are in the same place. Metal parts painted with POR 15 for rust proofing.

Here's the result !



Total cost around £15 the pair.

they look great and will work really well, but i did push the boat out a little more and bought two as the hole really annoyed me. .
you may find that the axle hit is a lot more comfortable when encountering speed bumps.

just for info really the softer hit hasnt caused damage to the rear drop links because of more axle travel, my mrs has had them for years with a conversion across the rear end and ive only fit one set of rubbers and brackets and no drop links in seven years, it doesnt lol around corners any more than it should.

brill job. .

Northern Bongolow wrote:they look great and will work really well, but i did push the boat out a little more and bought two as the hole really annoyed me. .
you may find that the axle hit is a lot more comfortable when encountering speed bumps.

just for info really the softer hit hasnt caused damage to the rear drop links because of more axle travel, my mrs has had them for years with a conversion across the rear end and ive only fit one set of rubbers and brackets and no drop links in seven years, it doesnt lol around corners any more than it should.

brill job. .

Vanessa,Id love to hear Chells Bongo laughing as it went around a corner,just hope it never accompanies a gurgle from the header tank. lol. (sorry,giggle)

Billy

Gripped,would you have the physical size/dimensions of the old original unit,thanks.

Dimensions are:

Metal base plate:

125.5mm long
60mm wide
105mm Hole centres
9.5mm Hole diameters
3.5mm metal thickness

Bump stop:

82mm Total height (including metal plate)
72mm height to lowest part of cut away
46mm thickness of bump stop at base
97.8mm width of bump stop at base
78.2 mm width of bump stop at top

First class,thanks very much.

I like the idea of trying to stay as close to original as possible.

I glued one of mine back onto its (cleaned up) baseplate using Evostick many years back. Which got me thinking, that for a one-off/one-side repair and if you wanted to match as closely as possible an original, it could be interesting to laminate (with Evostick or your adhesive of choice) suitably sized rectangles of something like this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Black-Solid-H ... 5P5eTG9SOQ

....and then sanding to final shape and gluing to the baseplate. By sizing the laminated rectangles appropriately, you could also make the finished block so that it sat in the rounded rectangular recess in the steel baseplate.

If you happen to have some sikaflex handy, this might be the best adhesive, but buying it specially would add to cost.

Just discovered recently my bump stops are missing too then nearly fainted when I saw the price of the originals. I was planning to make some out of some hard exhaust rubber mountings in the next week or two, I'll see how they work out but that rubber bumper in the first link looks ideal.