Bongo Fury

hi folks,
Im going to make myself a new door loom with new connectors on each end (tried soldering it, it didn't last long enough).

It was a while ago i did the repair and i can't remember how many wires there are in the door loom. Can someone please tell me and then i can order the parts i need. I'm going to do it at the same time as remote locking and automatic wing mirrors, should be a bit involved for a few hours, but i'm sure i'll figure it out!

Sounds like a lot of hard work! Good luck.

I am a great fan of heat shrink solder but connectors, since I discovered them a couple of years ago. Just bare and clean a few millimeters of each of the broken ends, push together inside the connector and heat gently and evenly with eg a disposable lighter until solder ring melts and fuses ends.

Repaired two breaks the other day in 10mins! The finished join looks neat and is well supported/protected by the shrink sleeve. No failures to date. Various suppliers on flee bay

I may just invest in those at some point, not seen them before.
For this application though, the door loom wires are so brittle now that i would much prefer to replace the lot but i can't justify the cost of a new loom from the club shop, so i'll give it a go at making my own i think. I found some good terminal connectors on ebay that look like they'll do the job nicely, so just a case of cutting some wires to length and away we go! Just need to know how many wires!

Umm .. maybe ..you .. can count them ..

Details in the wiring loom connectors X-16 and X17;

oh wow, i can't decipher that at all! ha!

In that case I suggest you buy a replacement loom from the shop!

The diagrams show you the plugs and the colour codes, click the Colour code symbol at the bottom of the screen for details of colours!

sorry G8, i meant i couldn't see which one was which, the number i mean. Having had another look, it is very clearly in the top corner of each picture!
Making a loom is a piece of cake, so i think i'll be fine, even with the slight sarcasm on your part.

Thanks for the diagram, it will help muchly.

What about mending the breaks and then putting the whole thing back with the two ends transposed?

Unless the hinge is exactly half way, that should give some previously unflexed wire a taste of hard work for a few years.


Frank

I did do a solder job on all the wires, but the central locking is goosed again. So, i figured i'd do a more permanent fix that would involve renewing the connectors on the ends and putting complete new wires in there.
I had initially thought i could just cut the wires, leaving perhaps an inch or so exposed and soldering and heat shrinking new wire in, but it seems more work for little reason.

Have you found a source of new plugs/sockets and pins ?

nope, i'm going to connect a different one at the other ends. so removing both male and female connectors at both ends of the loom. Seems the most sensible option to me, but I will have to investigate a bit further.
The list of things to do is quite distinguished now, all fun though.

My drivers side worked OK so does my central locking .. but the passengers side will not go up or down ..

Like most I assumed it was a broken / brittle / hardened wire ..

I even removed the harness retaining clip .. tugged and pulled every wire with no luck .. just never got round to metering them for continuity .. maybe one day ..??

mikeWalsall wrote:My drivers side worked OK so does my central locking .. but the passengers side will not go up or down ..

Like most I assumed it was a broken / brittle / hardened wire ..

I even removed the harness retaining clip .. tugged and pulled every wire with no luck .. just never got round to metering them for continuity .. maybe one day ..??

I had a similar problem. When we got the Bongo the passenger window wouldn't go up or down.

We tried a replacement passenger switch - that didn't work. I checked the continuity of each wire through the door hinge - all fine.

I ended up finding that the problem was high resistance in the drivers door switch. There was some corrosion on one bit - IIRC it was the disable switch. Once cleaned up it now all works. I initially figured it couldn't be that as all the other window circuits go through that same switch and they were all working - but it turned out the passenger switch was at the longest length so the added length of wire plus the resistance was killing it.

Since cleaning off the corrosion the everything else works faster too.