Bongo Fury

I am preparing for some work on the Bongo next weekend (weather permitting) which will include inspecting the coolant system. I've never had to do anything on it before and have always erred on the side of if it ain't broke don't fix it but want to do a bit of preventative maintenance before some serious mileage this summer.

Few questions - my Bongo runs hotter than some on here, so a coolant flush has been suggested. I've watched the videos on bleeding but if I want to flush, how do I do that? Do I fill it with special flush fluid (if there is such a thing) or do I just empty and refill as per video? Next question, how do you empty a functioning system? Just undo the lowest hose?

Lastly, seeing as I am emptying it, should I take the opportunity to replace the thermostat? If so, is there a handy video for that, or have you any tips (I don't even know where it is located on the Bongo).

Thanks as always.

Hi
Definitely go for a 'stat change...regarding flushing, it's a matter of opinion...If the system runs a bit warm, look at replacing components, because unless the whole system is choked internally, which is doubtful unless it has been run without antifreeze most of it's life, then adding an acidic solution may just do more damage than good. You'd probably do better to think "new radiator" if it looks at all suspect, and it's getting on in miles...but that's only my way of thinking....also, when you replace the stat, do the water pump at the same time...they do wear!
Here's the stat housing:
The stat is 15-171 http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html
Good Luck
Cheers
Helen

I did a coolant flush on the advice of Ian Taylor (JAP Car Import) by ...

- putting a slow running water hose into the coolant tank
- undo the drain plug on the bottom of the radiator until water runs clear
- see below for more info

You need to make sure that you use slow running water so as not to cause air bubbles and make sure that the 'input' is the same or slightly faster than the 'output' from the drain plug.

I ran it until the water was clear, ran the engine for a while to push the water around the system and then did the process above.
Once you have clear water then drain enough water out of the radiator plug (making sure that you do not drop the water above the top of the highest rubber pipe) and put in the concentrated coolant additive and top up with water if required. Remember to run the engine for a while to mix it all up.

I think in theory you should use de-ionized water (distilled) in the system. However, I have put tap water (I live in a soft water area) in it to run the system for a week or so and will do this same process again in a few weeks but will use distilled water and new concentrated coolant additive.

Hope that makes sense.

Hi will be interested to know how you get on and if it improves the running temp. We are new owners and ours runs at 94/97 we have a haydn T1 alarm fitted and the sensor for the engine is on the back of the cylinder head. Cooling system and hoses checked by bongo competent garage, no loss of coolant. Concerned as if it runs this high in winter what will happen in summer.

Just for info value...my temps go between 88C and 97C as an all year min and max. That is across all weather conditions and driving conditions. It hit 99C in Wales up some 500M hills which was quite exceptional. I had mine flushed about 9 months ago when the coolant was changed.

I made this out of a few bits lying around so I can connect a hose pipe to the bottom of the rad and back flush all bits upwards and out. If you block the hose that was disconnected from the bottom of the rad it will force the water out of the expansion tank. I tend to run it for say 5 mins and then flush from the tank or the cap on the top of the rad for another 5 mins or so. It helps to shift any sediment around.

JoeC wrote:I did a coolant flush on the advice of Ian Taylor (JAP Car Import) by ...

- putting a slow running water hose into the coolant tank
- undo the drain plug on the bottom of the radiator until water runs clear
- see below for more info

You need to make sure that you use slow running water so as not to cause air bubbles and make sure that the 'input' is the same or slightly faster than the 'output' from the drain plug.

I ran it until the water was clear, ran the engine for a while to push the water around the system and then did the process above.
Once you have clear water then drain enough water out of the radiator plug (making sure that you do not drop the water above the top of the highest rubber pipe) and put in the concentrated coolant additive and top up with water if required. Remember to run the engine for a while to mix it all up.

I think in theory you should use de-ionized water (distilled) in the system. However, I have put tap water (I live in a soft water area) in it to run the system for a week or so and will do this same process again in a few weeks but will use distilled water and new concentrated coolant additive.

Hope that makes sense.

I've not had temperature issues and was doing this just as maintenance as only had Mazy for a few weeks now. My coolant smelt stale and when I tetsed it it had very little protection in the water.

Thanks for all the replies. If the odometer is to be believed I've only got 86000 miles done, and the radiator looks OK externally. I don't suspect anything more than a slight loss of efficiency.

I like your style Helen and don't disagree with the water pump as well however as per another of my posts I have a whole load of jobs, with the parts required very quickly approaching £1000, I'm going to leave the waterpump for now. Hopefully next time!