Bongo Fury

Hi
can anyone recommend a good reasonably priced ball joint separator that is suitable for the lower suspension ball joint. I have tried everything I've got but i can't shift it and i need to replace the split rubber boot as it's mot time soon any suggestions?
Thanks
phil

HI phil, the way I separate the ball joints,

Slacken the nut on the ball joint leaving it on the joint by 2/3 threads,

Turn the steering till you get a good view of the KNUCKLE NOSE and give the nose (square on horizontally) a good skelp with a 2LB hammer that will release the joint from the knuckle..

Never Fails.

Good Luck.

That usually works for me.

If it doesn't, I reach for one of these:



They never fail.

Hi
I've never had any luck with those forked ones...I know most folk like them, But I like these little suckers:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-4931-Ba ... 5d32ec3794
I've got REALLY stuck joints undone with them
Cheers
Helen

I've never found the standard cheapo hinged ones fit in to the balljoints on my van very well (4WD), but the forked one I use (snapon rather than the one I pictured above) does fit well, and it's usually a one-hit wonder to pop them.



That said, the one you linked to has interchangeable forks, so may fit better. However, I don't think I've ever had a balljoint that was £200 stuck!

Hi Dave...
That's the only tool I ever borrow... ...I've got a box full of separators, some pretty good ones, but some joints have had to yield to the gas torch ...which is the mechanic's gelignite
Cheers
Helen

Can't beat a bit of heat!

dave_aber wrote:Can't beat a bit of heat!

I agree! when I had land rovers my main tools were a gas torch, grinder and a lump hammer, brae it, singe it, grind it and fry the bugger

Some advice from someone who's changed 2 boots, 3 ball joints, and finally 2 whole wishbones on the bongo.

Tuning fork seperators will knacker your ball joint if you have to hit it more than a few times. Guaranteed. I've had ball joints on the bongo that didn't budge with 20+hits with a big heavy lump hammer, Plusgas (amazing releasing spray), tried hitting the cast metal to shock release them, and lots of swearing.

The wind-up bolt type seperators you get from toolzone etc don't fit between the top of the nut and the CV joint. You need to buy ones with slim "grips". I don't have these.

The way I found to release them was apply plus gas, then wait 20 mins or so, then destroy the ball joint because I have to use the tuning fork method. You have to hit it darn hard, plenty of times. I've never has an easy release.

I've replaced just the boots before, twice (which involves probably damaging the ball joint during the removal...) and you can never get the bottom "keyring" style securing clip over the lower metal flange. If you do manage this, it'll pop off as it's a greasy area. If you put the boot on and secure the bottom with a cable tie, or even the tension of the rubber, it'll pop off on your way to the MOT and fail.

I've replaced two (or maybe three) whole ball joints. I have a 20 tonne press. It's an easy job to do and you pass your MOT (you do of course have to go through the hell of breaking the old ball joint free to remove the wishbone). All of these ball joints, of differing makes, from ebay and Euro car parts never made it to the next MOT. The rubber failed on them.

Having got thoroughly fed up with ball joint seperating and generally getting angry with a mallet for two consecutive MOTs I gave up.

I bought a pattern wishbone from mazdabongo.com for around £95, and a genuine one for the other side for £114 off ebay (they are £145 normally)

Both sailed through the MOT recently after well over a year.

My advice is spend the extra and replace the whole arm. £95 is not to bad at all.

Ignore this at your peril.

Thanks for all of your suggestions I have tried hitting it with a big hammer I have also tried one of fork type splitters but it won't budge didn't heat for fear of buggering up the ball joint the main problem is i can't hit it properly as the abs ring is in the way.
Anyway I have admitted defeat and booked it in to a garage on Thursday.
Thanks
phil

phil 1 wrote:Thanks for all of your suggestions I have tried hitting it with a big hammer I have also tried one of fork type splitters but it won't budge didn't heat for fear of buggering up the ball joint the main problem is i can't hit it properly as the abs ring is in the way.
Anyway I have admitted defeat and booked it in to a garage on Thursday.
Thanks
phil

It will probably take the Mechanic a minute to release the ball joint from the knuckle.

PS its essential that you use a 2LB hammer on the Nose of the knuckle..

Dodgey wrote:Some advice from someone who's changed 2 boots, 3 ball joints, and finally 2 whole wishbones on the bongo.

Tuning fork seperators will knacker your ball joint if you have to hit it more than a few times. Guaranteed. I've had ball joints on the bongo that didn't budge with 20+hits with a big heavy lump hammer, Plusgas (amazing releasing spray), tried hitting the cast metal to shock release them, and lots of swearing.

The wind-up bolt type seperators you get from toolzone etc don't fit between the top of the nut and the CV joint. You need to buy ones with slim "grips". I don't have these.

The way I found to release them was apply plus gas, then wait 20 mins or so, then destroy the ball joint because I have to use the tuning fork method. You have to hit it darn hard, plenty of times. I've never has an easy release.

I've replaced just the boots before, twice (which involves probably damaging the ball joint during the removal...) and you can never get the bottom "keyring" style securing clip over the lower metal flange. If you do manage this, it'll pop off as it's a greasy area. If you put the boot on and secure the bottom with a cable tie, or even the tension of the rubber, it'll pop off on your way to the MOT and fail.

I've replaced two (or maybe three) whole ball joints. I have a 20 tonne press. It's an easy job to do and you pass your MOT (you do of course have to go through the hell of breaking the old ball joint free to remove the wishbone). All of these ball joints, of differing makes, from ebay and Euro car parts never made it to the next MOT. The rubber failed on them.

Having got thoroughly fed up with ball joint seperating and generally getting angry with a mallet for two consecutive MOTs I gave up.

I bought a pattern wishbone from mazdabongo.com for around £95, and a genuine one for the other side for £114 off ebay (they are £145 normally)

Both sailed through the MOT recently after well over a year.

My advice is spend the extra and replace the whole arm. £95 is not to bad at all.

Ignore this at your peril.

Thanks for your advice, I appreciate that replacing the boot is only delaying the inevitable and i will need to replace the wishbone sooner or later. Just need to get it threw the mot so I've time to change them when the weather gets warmer

rita wrote:

phil 1 wrote:Thanks for all of your suggestions I have tried hitting it with a big hammer I have also tried one of fork type splitters but it won't budge didn't heat for fear of buggering up the ball joint the main problem is i can't hit it properly as the abs ring is in the way.
Anyway I have admitted defeat and booked it in to a garage on Thursday.
Thanks
phil

It will probably take the Mechanic a minute to release the ball joint from the knuckle.

PS its essential that you use a 2LB hammer on the Nose of the knuckle..

Yes must get myself a bigger hammer
garage said it wasn't too bad to do only charged £20 which I didn't think was to bad would have cost me that in plasters

Hi
At that price labour, I wouldn't get my hands dirty!...good deal!...In the last 10 + years years, we've had 3 balljoints 3 wishbones, 8 droplinks, and almost all of that has been in the last 4 years, apart from 2 droplinks...the list doesn't stop there...dampers, mountings, steering, and more on the Jeep!....The roads here are mere tracks!...at least the labour charges are good!
Cheers
Helen

phil 1 wrote:

rita wrote:

phil 1 wrote:Thanks for all of your suggestions I have tried hitting it with a big hammer I have also tried one of fork type splitters but it won't budge didn't heat for fear of buggering up the ball joint the main problem is i can't hit it properly as the abs ring is in the way.
Anyway I have admitted defeat and booked it in to a garage on Thursday.
Thanks
phil

It will probably take the Mechanic a minute to release the ball joint from the knuckle.

PS its essential that you use a 2LB hammer on the Nose of the knuckle..

Yes must get myself a bigger hammer
garage said it wasn't too bad to do only charged £20 which I didn't think was to bad would have cost me that in plasters

Not bad for a minutes work with a 2LB hammer.