Rear spring change...

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BongoBongo123
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Rear spring change...

Post by BongoBongo123 » Sun Nov 02, 2014 12:54 pm

is it much different than this video or in principle similar it actually looks fairly easy to do ? thanks

Not quite understanding what I see at 02:04 which is a second scissor jack under the shock absorber appearing which the guy is lowering... which was not present in the previous shot.. bit weird.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emYzTyjM4SM

I have a friend who has done springs before and he said he can give us a hand. He has spring compressors but at least on this video it seems they might need to be compressed by much.
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Simon Jones
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Re: Rear spring change...

Post by Simon Jones » Sun Nov 02, 2014 1:32 pm

I've removed springs to fit air assistors and it's not a big job as long as you have decent socket set and spring compressors. Just replaced the rear shock last week which is a relatively simple job. In fact it took longer to get the van jacked up and on axle stands.

The purpose of the extra jack is to allow the rear axle to be moved up or down to get the shock absorber aligned. You can't get the shocker off if there is any weight on it.

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Re: Rear spring change...

Post by BongoBongo123 » Sun Nov 02, 2014 2:41 pm

Woah, did you do that before or after you ate your dinner of the mechanics under there lol ! Is that treatment from new or did you do that yourself/aftermarket rust proofing/painting, it's a thorough job.
Top post there thanks Mike :D

I am planning to sort my axle/diff exterior out in a similar vane got 1litre of Jenolite on the way.

I think I understand the logic... to remove the shock you need to remove weight from the axle so it drops and the spring decompresses significantly and the shock absorber expands to near full length so you can bring down the large metal part holding the shock and spring to release the spring (which I guess you may or may not need to compress slightly to get it out) In the video he did not need to compress it to get it out. Though that could be cause his removed spring has broken making there be no pressure on it.

The new one went on easy enough.

I can see he puts a scissor stand there at 00:41 now I missed that !
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Re: Rear spring change...

Post by Simon Jones » Sun Nov 02, 2014 3:50 pm

The shocker prevents the axle dropping a few extra inches so it makes access easier to remove it all together. You need to get spring compressor on in such a way that you can wind the bolt in easily. I had the extra hassle of squeezing the air balloons into the middle of the springs, but without that I would say you could comfortably do the whole job in under two hours. Bear in mind, the spring in the video is broken so is shorter than normal so I'm pretty sure you won't be able to remove a full spring without compressing it first.

I Waxoyled under the van before I had the LPG conversion fitted as the tank makes access to the rear floor pan tricky. That photo was taken two years ago and when I was under there last week it was still in good condition although I'll probably have it re-treated next year. I just wanted to do it myself to my satisfaction first time round, but next time I may pay someone to do it. It's not a fun job to do.
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Re: Rear spring change...

Post by BongoBongo123 » Mon Nov 03, 2014 12:14 pm

Thanks for the explanation is that black Waxoyl then ?

I am wondering if I should Waxoyl or wire brush Jenolite and then paint. Either would work well but I guess Waxoyl would need to be redone every few years as you say. Waxoyl brush on would be much quicker than the other way.
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Re: Rear spring change...

Post by Simon Jones » Mon Nov 03, 2014 1:19 pm

Yes, black Waxoyl sprayed / painted all over. Only part I treated fully was the floor pan where the spare wheel was where the original paintwork was very thin. Can't recall what treatment it was other than it was one of those convertor chemicals that turns purple once the magic has happened. I jet washed the underside first, removed any surface rust, treated & then Waxoyled.
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Re: Rear spring change...

Post by BongoBongo123 » Thu Nov 06, 2014 11:59 am

Thanks, I have ordered some black Hammerite now cause I thought green would appear a bit strange under there.
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Re: Rear spring change...

Post by BongoBongo123 » Mon Nov 10, 2014 5:25 pm

A bit off topic from the springs but I have wire brushed everything I could ready for Jenolite and painting hopefully tomorrow. Got a few dry days coming thankfully.

I think the springs will be a "spring" job now.
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Re: Rear spring change...

Post by BongoBongo123 » Tue Nov 11, 2014 11:29 am

I have a few hours for the Jenolite to set... I am pondering...and would like input.

I could paint all surfaces with Hammerite or leave nuts and bolts/moving bits for now and blob some Waxoyl on those bits. It would not look as tidy I suspect but might be best for nuts.

I don't suppose a layer of hammerite would produce a big problem should a nut need to come undone
at some stage but wonder if it is best to put waxoyl on the nuts/ axle drain hole etc. as opposed to Hammerite.

Any thoughts welcome before it gets sealed off.

Both looking forwards to and dreading being under painting the axle for a while. Not exactly warm today and a bit windy as well lol. Thats raw Bongo enthusiasm for you.

The Jenolite liquid went on easy peasy took about 15mins to do everything in sight. Cuppa tea do some work and get back out there around 1pm.
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Re: Rear spring change...

Post by BongoBongo123 » Tue Nov 11, 2014 1:34 pm

Jenolite has very ambiguous instructions saying you can prime within 30 mins, repaint within 3-24 hours and paintable within 1 hour (all written on 1 bottle!!!!).

I hope this is as good as Kurust with instructions like that I am left in doubt. Clear as mud.
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Re: Rear spring change...

Post by BongoBongo123 » Tue Nov 11, 2014 4:19 pm

I could not get forum to display images direct (posted about that elsewhere) so you need to click the link....

Axle Jenolited and hand painted, much better than one with surface rust !

https://www.anonimg.com/img/1e086f869b6 ... 1df544.jpg

This will get Jenolited and painted next spring... for now smeered with Waxoyl clear to get it through winter without further surface corrosion.

https://www.anonimg.com/img/37911f9d9bc ... 847d59.jpg

A good days work, another cuppa please.
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Re: Rear spring change...

Post by Gasy » Tue Nov 11, 2014 7:26 pm

Time for a new spare wheel
Gas safe heating engineer / plumber if you need any advice just shout.
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Re: Rear spring change...

Post by BongoBongo123 » Tue Nov 11, 2014 7:45 pm

How come buddy ? Tyre's a bit dusty, I'll give you that.

:lol:
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Re: Rear spring change...

Post by Simon Jones » Tue Nov 11, 2014 8:04 pm

The tyre will be way past it's use-by date (typically 6 - 10 years after manufacture). You can buy new space saver tyres for under £70 but most folk fit a full size wheel in its place.
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Re: Rear spring change...

Post by BongoBongo123 » Tue Nov 11, 2014 9:27 pm

Simon Jones wrote:The tyre will be way past it's use-by date (typically 6 - 10 years after manufacture). You can buy new space saver tyres for under £70 but most folk fit a full size wheel in its place.
I am sure it probably is but it has remained pumped up no problem. There is zero cracking on the rubber. It's only to get you out of trouble. Use that once in a blue moon. Have to be sensible and consider where non endless Bongo funds are best spent as well.
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